青岛麦岛污水处理厂工程海区沿岸近岸流的数值模拟

采用动量方程、波数矢量无族和能量守恒关系对青岛市麦岛污水处理厂工程海区近岸流进行了数值模拟计算，计算结果表明本文提出的近岸流的计算方法是适合工程应用的。采用该模型对沿岸规则波产生的近岸流流场进行数值模拟是简便可行的。     

Sediment trend models fail to reproduce small-scale sediment transport patterns on an intertidal beach

A rigorous test is presented of the application of sediment trend models to an intertidal beach environment characterized by bar morphology. Sediment samples were collected during low tide from a regular grid and their sediment fall velocity distributions, obtained using a settling tube, were analysed using moment analysis. The net sediment transport direction determined from beach surveys, hydrodynamic measurements, wave ripple observations and sediment transport modelling was compared with predictions by sediment trend models based on the spatial distribution of sediment parameters. It was found that the sediment transport pathways and patterns of sedimentation predicted using sediment trend models were at odds with field observations, and varied significantly depending on whether surface or sub‐surface sediment samples were used. The sediment trend models are thought to fail because, in energetic and morphologically variable beach environments, spatial patterns in sediment characteristics are mainly attributed to the presence of different hydrodynamic regions and associated morphology, rather than sediment pathways. The use of sediment trend models cannot replace the collection of morphological, hydrodynamic and sediment transport data in the field to define relationships between flows, forms and sedimentation patterns on a dynamic intertidal beach.     

Subtidal macroalgal richness,diversity and turnover,at multiple spatial scales,along the southwestern Australian coastline

Patterns of species richness are governed by processes that act at vastly different spatial scales. In the marine system of southwest Australia, macroalgal assemblage structure and richness is thought to be strongly influenced by both the Leeuwin Current, which acts at large regional spatial scales, and small-scale processes such as competition, wave disturbance and habitat heterogeneity. We examined macroalgal species richness and diversity at multiple spatial scales using a three-factor hierarchal design. Spatial extents ranged from metres (between quadrats) to many hundreds of kilometres (between regions), and the study encompassed almost 2000 km of temperate coastline. Macroalgal assemblages were highly speciose and the number, identity, and diversity of species varied considerably at all spatial scales. Small scale variability, at the scale of site or quadrat, contributed most to total variation in species richness and diversity, suggesting that small-scale processes are important drivers of ecological pattern in this system. Species richness, diversity and taxonomic distinctness increased sequentially along the coastline, from warmer to cooler waters. Small scale variability was most likely maintained by wave disturbance and habitat heterogeneity at these scales, while regional scale diversity and richness clines were attributed to the fact that most species had cool-water affinities and the southern coast of Australia is a hotspot of floral speciation and diversity. Macroalgal assemblages in southwest Australia are speciose and largely endemic, and biodiversity patterns are structured by multiple processes operating at multiple spatial scales.     

A multi-frequency Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler (ACVP) for boundary layer measurements of fine-scale flow and sediment transport processes

The use of acoustics to measure sediment transport boundary layer processes has gained increasing acceptance over the past two decades. This has occurred through the development of increasingly sophisticated measuring systems and theoretical developments, which have enabled flow and suspended sediment parameters to be obtained from acoustic data with a high degree of accuracy. Until relatively recently, separate acoustic systems were used to measure flow and suspended sediment concentration. Over the past few years, however, the technology has become sufficiently advanced so that flow and sediment measurements can be integrated into a single system. This integration provides, quasi-instantaneous, non-intrusive, co-located, high temporal-spatial resolution measurements of benthic flow and sediment processes. Here the development of such an instrument, the Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler (ACVP) is described. The theory underpinning its application is outlined, new approaches to velocity de-aliasing and suspended sediment inversion instabilities using multi-frequency capabilities are presented and the application of the system to sediment transport processes over a sandy ripple bed is illustrated. The observations clearly show the value of such instrumentation for studying the dynamical interaction between the bed, the flow and the sediments at and within the bottom boundary layer.     

CLIMATIC RESPONSE IN TREE RINGS OF LOBLOLLY PINE FROM NORTH GEORGIA

The relationship between climate and tree-growth for loblolly pine in north Georgia is investigated by: 1) determining during which months climate has its strongest impact on loblolly pine growth, and 2) specifically examining the relationship between loblolly pine growth and growing season precipitation. Response function analyses indicate that precipitation during the current May-August period has a positive effect on pine growth, while the previous growing season shows no significant effect on growth. Significant negative effects of temperature were found during the previous June and August, current April, and the current June-September period. A regression model predicting the May-September growing season rainfall total as a function of tree-ring indices was highly significant (r² = 0.48). These results indicate that loblolly pine is a useful species for investigating the impact of climate and other factors on the recent decline of pine growth in the southeastern United States. [Key words: Dendroclimatology, tree rings, loblolly pine, Georgia.]     

近岸带波浪传播过程中波性质的统计对比分析

通过对粤东后江湾近岸带垂岸方向上4个测站,同步观测到的波浪数据进行频域统计分析,初步探讨分析了波浪近岸传播过程中波浪统计性质的变化规律。结果表明:碎波带内波的频谱多峰特征显著,峰频两侧均存在着显著能量峰值,峰频能量发生转移;波浪经过破碎后,约束长波能量被释放出来;波浪向岸过程中谱宽度(ε)变大,同时谱尖度(Qp)减小,显著波陡(Ss)增大,峰值周期(Tp)增大,平均周期(Tm02)减小。     

Beach erosion and recovery during consecutive storms at a steep‐sloping,meso‐tidal beach

This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m³/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m³/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

长江三角洲南汇潮滩沉积速率及其影响因素

近100余年来,南汇潮滩尤其是中、高潮滩,以淤涨为主,使岸线迅速向海推进。但潮滩沉积并 非连续,而是以冲、淤相间,长期净淤积的方式进行。潮滩沉积剖面主要由风暴成因的小型层序组成,粗、细 粒交替分别代表风暴与平静天气的产物。潮滩沉积环境的不稳定性使其难以满足两种常用来计算210Pb沉积速率 的方法---CIC （稳定的初始比度） 模型和CRS（稳定的沉降通量） 模型的前提条件。在实验时,如果只选择 代表平静天气沉积的细颗粒层进行210Pb活度分析,则可能得到一组相对符合CIC模型的数据,利用此方法计算 出南汇潮间带环境的平均沉积速率为6.11~6.23 cm/yr。对历史海图数字化建立的数字高程模型（DEM） 分析 表明,中、高潮滩近50余年的平均沉积速率为1.91~2.05cm/yr,不及210Pb沉积速率的一半。造成这种差异的 原因有：（１） DEM法在高程推算过程中使用简单的潮滩纵剖面模型,导致计算的沉积速率偏低;（２）210Pb法受 到沉积过程中强烈的物理混合作用和沉积后的生物扰动、化学迁移作用等影响,使计算的沉积速率偏高。推断 近50余年来,南汇中、高潮滩的沉积速率为4～5cm/yr。     

塔里木中部地区东河砂岩段沉积特征和沉积环境演变

塔里木盆地东河砂岩段是中国首例获高产工业性油气流的海相滨岸沉积,它是石炭纪初期海侵阶段的沉积产物,包括底部砾岩、中部块状砂岩和上部含砾砂岩沉积。东河砂岩段主体岩性为中细石英质砾岩和岩屑质细砂岩,具有中等偏高的成份和结构成熟度、酸性岩浆岩的重矿物组合、海相沉积物的微量元素特征,发育不同类型的交错层理、平行层理、冲洗层理以及生物扰动构造,垂向上构成河口湾(河流)和滨岸沉积序列。底部砾岩形成于受古地形控制的砾质河流沉积环境;中部块状砂岩和上部含砾砂岩形成于河口湾和前滨、临滨沉积环境。平面上,塔中10井和塔中14井以西地区以前滨和临滨沉积为特征,以东地区以河口湾沉积为特征,整体表现出自西向东的海侵特征。     

Enhanced Acoustic Backscatter Due to High Abundance of Sand Dollars,Dendraster excentricus

Abstract

Detailed acoustic surveys of benthic sediments were conducted in July 1995 and September 1998 in the vicinity of Humboldt Bay, California. During these surveys, a band of enhanced acoustic backscatter was observed offshore from the bay entrance, approximately parallel to the isobaths, in water depths ranging from 16–24 m. In order to assess the cause of the increase in backscatter levels, a more comprehensive study was conducted in August and September 1999 using 100 kHz side-scan sonar, bottom grab sampling and underwater video recording. New observations indicated that a dense population of sand dollars (Dendraster excentricus) coincided with the enhanced backscatter band. Compared to the two previous acoustic studies, the central section of the band expanded westward by 180 m and the southern section of the band shifted eastward by 160 m, possibly resulting from a change in the biological or physical factors which influence the location and breadth of sand dollars.

The relationship between high sand dollar abundance and enhanced acoustic backscatter was further verified in the near shore region off Samoa Beach California, where a dense, banded population of sand dollars was previously observed. Video footage confirmed the presence of a band of sand dollars, also nominally parallel to the isobaths, in water depths of 8–15 m. A band of enhanced backscatter coincided with the dense sand dollar population. The identification of dense aggregations of sand dollars through enhanced acoustic backscatter could lead to the use of acoustic techniques to study sand dollar distributions and abundance.