Investigation of wave characteristics in a semi-enclosed bay based on SWAN model validated with buoys and ADP-observed currents

In this study, the simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) model with a locally refined curvilinear grid system was constructed to simulate waves in Jervis Bay and the neighbouring ocean of Australia, with the aim of examining the wave characteristics in an area with special topography and practical importance. This model was verified by field observations from buoys and acoustic Doppler profilers (ADPs). The model precisions were validated for both wind-generated waves and open-ocean swells. We present an approach with which to convert ADP-observed current data from near the bottom into the significant wave height. Our approach is deduced from the Fourier transform technique and the linear wave theory. The results illustrate that the location of the bay entrance is important because it allows the swells in the dominant direction to propagate into the bay despite the narrowness of the bay entrance. The wave period T p is also strongly related to the wave direction in the semi-enclosed bay. The Tp is great enough along the entire propagating direction from the bay entrance to the top of the bay, and the largest Tp appears along the north-west coast, which is the end tip of the swells’ propagation.     

东海近岸带鱼(Trichiurus japonicus)线粒体控制区序列的群体遗传变异研究

带鱼(Trichiurusjaponicus)是广泛分布于东亚大陆架海域的暖温性近底层经济鱼类,也是东海区最重要的海洋渔业捕捞对象。然而,目前的研究报道对东海近岸带鱼群体遗传变异特性认识不足,不利于其种群的遗传资源保护和管理。本研究利用线粒体控制区序列对东海近岸带鱼6个群体191个个体的遗传多样性、遗传分化和历史动态进行分析。在577 bp长的控制区序列中共检测到70个多态位点,定义了121个单倍型。群体总的单倍型多样性较高(0.9911),但总的核苷酸多样性较低(0.0092),群体间遗传多样性水平差异较小。单倍型遗传学关系、Fst值和分子方差分析结果均表明群体间的遗传分化不显著,存在广泛的基因交流。历史动态分析结果表明东海近岸带鱼群体在更新世中晚期可能经历了瓶颈效应和随后的群体快速扩张,这是导致群体遗传多样性较低的主要原因。带鱼较强的扩散能力、洄游行为、海洋环流以及近期的群体扩张可能是造成东海近岸带鱼缺乏显著的系统地理种群结构的原因。研究结果提示,在线粒体DNA水平上,东海近岸带鱼群体是一个随机交配的种群,在遗传资源管理上可作为一个单元进行管理。     

基于Boussinesq方程近岸波浪演变的数值研究

首先对目前描述近岸波浪传播变形的数学模型进行了回顾与总结;对不同数学模型的特点、适用范围和发展情况进行了阐述与对比。应用基于Boussinesq方程的Coulwave模式针对几个经典实验地形进行了数值实验,数值结果和实验实测数据吻合较好。此外,分别采用不同的近岸波浪模型模拟了某渔港附近波浪的传播变形,结果表明:当考虑波浪的折射、绕射、反射联合作用时,Coulwave模式计算结果明显较缓坡方程及SWAN模型计算结果更加合理。     

近岸水下扇微相划分研究及意义初探——以滦平盆地下白垩统西瓜园组为例

滦平盆地下白垩统西瓜园组沉积期发育大量的粗碎屑岩沉积,通过野外实地考察以及结合无人机摄影技术,将流体搬运机制与微相划分相结合,对断陷湖盆内部粗碎屑沉积体进行详细研究。结果表明：滦平盆地西瓜园组沉积期北部受边界断层活动影响,发育典型陆相断陷湖盆的近岸水下扇沉积体系。根据露头观测及研究,可划分出扇根、扇中及扇端三种亚相。其中扇根亚相以碎屑物质直接入湖、岩性较粗、分选极差、无磨圆为特征。扇中亚相采用“水下河道微相”及“边缘微相”的划分方式,水下河道微相可见同时发育由碎屑流及浊流两种不同流体性质控制的沉积体,沉积迅速,界限清晰且含轻微冲刷,横向连续性较为稳定,砾石出现一定定向性,磨圆较差,在扇中亚相中最为发育;边缘微相沉积相对较为混杂,漂砾较为常见,可见明显的板状交错层理,横向连续性差,指示河道的改道或者边缘沉积,不发育冲刷- 充填构造。扇端亚相以砂泥岩薄互层或者厚层细砂岩为特征,可见细小砾石层。微相划分方法结合流体搬运机制及沉降方式,更加具有成因性依据,同时更好地解释了远离物源区的稳定砾石层发育。研究结果为近岸水下扇内部砂体发育规律和叠置关系研究及下一步油气勘探与开发提供了新思路。     

近海与远洋飓风边界层特征高度的差异分析

使用1998—2016年大西洋40个飓风2 032个GPS下投式探空仪观测数据,以距离海岸线300 km为界分为近海和远洋两组,利用合成分析方法探讨了飓风边界层特征高度的差异。边界层特征高度的定义方法包括最大切向风高度、入流层高度、混合层高度和理查森数法高度。对比分析不同定义方法下近海和远洋边界层高度,结果表明：根据最大切向风和入流层强度定义的边界层高度,近海边界层高度低于远洋边界层高度,且近海边界层高度随径向增加至2倍最大风速半径后趋于稳定;基于混合层定义的边界层高度明显低于动力边界层高度,且近海与远洋混合边界层特征高度无明显差异;近海理查森数边界层高度在最大风速半径内与远洋的无明显差异,而在最大风速半径外略高于远洋的。     

辐射应力理论在近岸区的应用及其研究进展

概述了波浪辐射应力理论,介绍了波浪辐射应力理论在海洋流体动力学尤其是近岸区的应用,重点分析了该理论在研究近岸波生流、波流相互作用等问题中的应用,总结了波浪辐射应力的研究进展,对辐射应力研究提出了建议。     

东营凹陷盐22块沙四上亚段砂砾岩粒度概率累积曲线特征

在岩芯观察和沉积相分析基础上,利用粒度分析资料对东营凹陷北部陡坡带盐22块沙四上亚段近岸水下扇砂砾岩体的粒度概率累积曲线进行了研究。研究表明,该地区近岸水下扇砂砾岩中的粒度概率累积曲线主要包括：＂上拱弧形＂、＂简单一段式＂、＂准牵引流型＂等3种基本类型和＂近似上拱弧形＂、＂台阶状多段式＂、＂低斜率两段式＂、＂低斜率三段...     

Photo-identification and habitat use of Atlantic humpback dolphins Sousa teuszii around the Río Nuñez Estuary in Guinea,West Africa

Ecological data for the Atlantic humpback dolphin Sousa teuszii are scant. Six on-effort Sousa teuszii sightings were recorded during 817.6?km of boat-based effort in the Río Nuñez region of Guinea during October and November 2013. Two incidental sightings were also reported. Groups comprised 1–25 animals. Photo-identification produced a minimum population estimate of 47 animals. Most sightings (n = 5) were located close (<1?km) to shore along a 5.7?km stretch of coast on the west side of Île de Taïdi, primarily over shallow, sand–mud habitat. Two very distinctive individuals were present in all four Taïdi photo-identification encounters, suggesting high site fidelity and stable associations. Two sightings occurred in the outer Río Nuñez Estuary much farther from the coast (5–12?km) but in relatively shallow water (≤15?m) over sand–mud sediment. Focal follows (n = 5: 0.2–3.8?h duration) produced 9.02?h of behavioural data. Travel (51%), foraging (39%) and feeding (9.2%) dominated, with Taïdi dolphins spending more time foraging and feeding than the outer estuary groups. Three individuals had linear-severed dorsal fins consistent with injuries from fishing line. Some management implications of variation in habitat, site fidelity and movements of Sousa teuszii groups are discussed.     

Nearshore scavenging phenomenon elucidated by <Superscript>234</Superscript>th/<Superscript>238</Superscript>u disequilibrium in the coastal waters off Western Taiwan

Dissolved and particulate ²³⁴Th activities in surface seawater were determined at 27 stations along the coastline of western Taiwan during 19–23 November 2004. Contrasting scavenging settings were observed between the northern and southern regimes of the nearshore water off western Taiwan, separated by the Cho-Shui River. The northern regime is characterized by a large quantity of suspended load contributed by northward transport of a suspension plume from the Cho-Shui River, while the southern regime, low in suspended load and high in chlorophyll concentration, is a system controlled by biological activity. A scavenging model that takes account of the physical transport was used to estimate the ²³⁴Th budget in order to estimate the scavenging and removal rates from the nearshore water. The scavenging and removal rates ranged from 21 to 127 dpm m⁻³d⁻¹ and from 36 to 525 dpm m⁻³d⁻¹, for dissolved and particulate ²³⁴Th, respectively. The removal fluxes of particulate organic carbon (POC) and particulate organic nitrogen (PON) were estimated by multiplying the particulate ²³⁴Th removal flux to the organic carbon/²³⁴Th and nitrogen/²³⁴Th ratios in suspended particles, which ranged from 4.5 to 275.2 mmol-C m⁻²d⁻¹ and from 1.3 to 50.1 mmol-N m⁻²d⁻¹, respectively. These fluxes resulted in residence times of 1∼20 days for the POC in the surface water of nearshore water off western Taiwan.     

Surface wave simulation during winter with sea ice in the Bohai Sea

Sea ice can attenuate wave energy significantly when waves propagate through ice covers.In this study,a third-generation wave model called simulating wave nearshore(SWAN)was advanced to include damping of wave energy due to friction in the boundary layer below the ice.With the addition of an eddy viscosity wave-ice model,the resulting new SWAN model was applied to simulate wave height in the Bohai Sea during the freezing winter.Its performance was validated with available buoy data near the ice edge,and the new model showed an improvement in accuracy because it considered the ice effect on waves.We then performed a wave hindcast for the Bohai Sea during a freezing period in the winter of 2016 that had the severest ice conditions in recent years and found that the mean significant wave height changed by approximately 16.52%.In the Liaodong Bay,where sea ice concentration is highest,the change reached 32.57%,compared with the most recent SWAN model version.The average influence of sea ice on wave height simulation was also evaluated over a five-year(2013-2017)hindcast during January and February.We found that the wave height decrease was more significant in storm conditions even the eddy viscosity wave-ice model itself showed no advantage on damping stronger waves.