径流量和潮量的减小对河口与河口湾型通道地形演变的影响——以神泉、乌坎通道为例

以神泉通道和乌坎通道的演变实例说明,河口型与河口湾型通道的形成和演变受径流量或潮流量的制约。而人为作用使径流量或潮流量减小,导致通道地形急剧演变和稳定程序变差。因此必须保持径流来量或纳潮量不变。但对不同类型的通道要作具体分析。     

Remote sensing composite information of Nansha reef''s closed atoll and model of its spatial structur evolution——Ⅱ

Based on the Nansha Islands' closed atoll conception-remote sensing system in Part Ⅰ,through the solution of the information function value and isostatic value of closed and quasi-closed atoll, and by using topological analysis on growth form and the composite remote sensing quantization date as the calculating coefficients, the feature vector system and its mathematical model of two kinds of atoll are built, and the multivariate analysis is made with some examples.     

国外海岸沙丘形成与演化的研究

自20世纪80年代以来，国外对海岸沙丘的研究已从主要对其地貌形态的研究转向海岸海丘与海岸变迁尤其是全球变化关系的研究上，海岸沙丘形成与演化的研究倍受关注，进行了大量研究并取得了一定的研究成果。这里介绍了国外在海岸沙丘形成与演化研究方面的主要进展及其成果，并以此探讨了国内今后开展海岸沙丘形成与演化研究的主要方向与问题。     

Parameter identification of a compliant nonlinear SDOF system in random ocean waves by reverse MISO method

The determination of the drag and inertia coefficients, which enter into the wave force model given by Morison's equation, is particularly uncertain and difficult when a linear spectral model is used for ocean waves, and the structure is compliant and has nonlinear dynamic response. In this paper, a nonlinear System Identification method, called Reverse Multiple Inputs–Single Output (R–MISO) is applied to identify the hydrodynamic coefficients as well as the nonlinear stiffness parameter for a compliant single-degree-of-freedom system. Four different types of problems have been identified for use in various situations and the R–MISO has been applied to all of them. One of the problems requires iterative solution strategy to identify the parameters. The method has been found to be efficient in predicting the parameters with reasonable accuracy and has the potential for use in the laboratory experiments on compliant nonlinear offshore systems.     

Modeling erosion of sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic

Morphodynamic modeling is employed in the present work to predict the long-term evolution (over the next 100 years) of typical sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic. The studied objects are the coasts of Varandey (the Barents Sea), Baydaratskaya Bay and Harasavey (the Kara Sea). The model developed takes into account both the short-term processes (storm events) and long-term factors (for example, changes in sea level, inter-annual variations in gross sediment flux, lack or excess of sediment supply). Predicted and observed morphological changes in coastal profiles are shown to agree well for time scales ranging from weeks to decades. It is revealed that under given environmental conditions, the morphological evolution is strongly influenced by storm surges and associated wind-driven circulation. The water level gradient created by a surge generates a seaward flow at the bed. This outflow is shown to be an important destructive mechanism contributing to the erosion and recession of Arctic coasts. The rate of change is found to depend on both the exposure of the coast (relative to the direction of dominant winds) and its height above the sea. The open coast of Varandey is expected to retreat as much as 300–500 m over 100 years, while recession of the less exposed coasts of Baydaratskaya Bay would not exceed about 100 m/century. If long-term sediment losses are insignificant, the rate of erosion decays with time and the morphodynamic system may tend toward equilibrium. It is concluded that the expected relative sea-level rise (up to 1 m over the nearest 100 years) is non-crucial to the future coastal evolution if an erosion activity is already high enough.     

日本海古海洋环境的演化

基于近年来有关日本海的古海洋古环境研究成果，总结概述了日本海中新世以来的古气候和古海洋环境演化特征。日本海作为西北太平洋一个主要的边缘海，在全球气候变化过程中起着重要的作用。它的古气候古环境演化，与全球其他地区一样受控于地球轨道参数的变化，同时也发育一些由气候的不稳定性、海峡的开合与其他一些地球气候系统的非线性活动所驱动的突发性快速气候变化事件。日本海的古海平面、古海水温度、古洋流等因子的变化还受到冰盖扩张和退缩、构造运动、冰川性地壳均衡补偿、东亚季风等因素的影响，具有鲜明的区域特点。总体说来，目前对日本海的研究程度还不高，对它在全球气候变化中的作用过程、驱动和响应机制的了解还很有限，需要进一步深入研究。     

分层海洋的内孤立波

本文从流体力学基本方程组出发,在非地转条件下导得了分层海洋的内孤立波方程—Kbv和mKdv方程,证实了在非地转条件下,一类海洋非线性波动是可以严格满足内孤立波方程的。在地转条件下采用f平面近似导出了KdV方程的演化形式一有源KdV方程,地转的影响含于源项中。由初步的分析得出,f对KdV方程的影响是微弱的。由已得的KdV和mKdV方程的解可知,内孤立波与线性波有着本质差别。     

一类二阶非线性微分方程解的振动性

本文研究一类二阶非线性微分方程 X+q(t)φ(X,X)+p(t)g(X)h(X)=0的解的振动性。文[1]研究了方程 X+q(t)φ(X,X)+p(t)g (X)X~α=0的解的振动性,而文[2]研究了方程 X+p(t)g(X)h(X)=0的解的振动性。本文所得的结果包含了文[1]的全部结果及文[2]的部份结果。     

Fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) simulations and wave run-up prediction around 3-D structures

A finite-difference scheme and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm have been developed to investigate the interactions of fully nonlinear waves with two- or three-dimensional structures of arbitrary shape. The Navier–Stokes (NS) and continuity equations are solved in the computational domain and the boundary values are updated at each time step by the finite-difference time-marching scheme in the framework of a rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear kinematic free-surface condition is implemented by the marker-density function (MDF) technique developed for two fluid layers.To demonstrate the capability and accuracy of the present method, the numerical simulation of backstep flows with free-surface, and the numerical tests of the MDF technique with limit functions are conducted. The 3D program was then applied to nonlinear wave interactions with conical gravity platforms of circular and octagonal cross-sections. The numerical prediction of maximum wave run-up on arctic structures is compared with the prediction of the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) method and those of linear and second-order diffraction analyses based on potential theory and boundary element method (BEM). Through this comparison, the effects of non-linearity and viscosity on wave loading and run-up are discussed.