闽浙沿岸上升流的数值模拟

本文将闽浙沿岸作为研究海区,采用坐标下三维斜压非线性的浅海陆架模式,综合考虑风、边界流(台湾暖流、黑潮、长江冲淡水)及地形等动力因子对上升流形成的影响,较好地模拟了闽浙沿岸上升流的分布。得出夏季闽浙沿岸近海岸区域有三个比较强的上升流中心,分别位于2520′N,12000′E、2640′N,12015′E、2720′N,12045′E附近,并且在对闽浙沿岸水文结构的模拟中,同样得出夏季沿岸的低温高盐区与计算出的三个较强的上升中心一致。冬季沿岸上升流的强度和范围都明显减弱,但在2520′N,12000′E和2600′N,12030′E及2830′~3000′N,12200′E附近仍有相对较强的上升流存在。     

Classification of washover dynamics in barrier islands

This study systematically classifies washover dynamics with reference to coastal changes along the Ria Formosa barrier islands (Southern Portugal). Identification of washovers using a sequence of 11 sets of aerial photographs dated between 1947 and 2001 allowed a classification to be developed based on: (1) overwash evolution (increasing, decreasing, or constant overwash processes); (2) the mechanisms promoting washover formation (exceptional to infrequent oceanographic conditions, washout processes, structural erosion, inlet dynamics, and human interventions); and (3) the mechanisms promoting washover cessation (berm development, structural erosion, dune development, inlet dynamics, and human interventions). A total of 369 different washovers were observed along the Ria Formosa barriers during the study period, with 209 washovers being formed in various types of dune morphology and 303 being obliterated. The number of washovers was relatively stable from 1947 to 1972, and increased dramatically between 1972 and 1976 probably as a result of the development of immature inlet margins and downdrift starvation. From 1976 to 2001, washover occurrences declined and their spatial dimensions decreased, leading to a decrease in overwash activity over this time. Overall, the dominant formation mechanisms of washovers in the Ria Formosa were inlet dynamics (accounting for 57% of washovers formed) and structural erosion (20%), with human intervention mechanisms accounting for 12%. The cessation of washovers was dominated by dune development (33% of the washovers obliterated) followed by inlet dynamics (24%) and structural erosion (19%), while human intervention mechanisms accounted for 13%. The classification should be of use for the coastal management of barrier systems including the definition of overwash-prone areas and the determination of the relative importance of the mechanisms contributing to washover formation and cessation.     

Occurrence and fate of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in the coastal surface microlayer

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) were measured in the coastal sea surface microlayer (SML), the sub-surface waters (SSW) and the overlying atmosphere in order to investigate the influence of the SML on contaminant enrichment and air-sea exchange. Samples were collected at two contrasting locations of the NW Mediterranean, one urban influenced (off Barcelona, Spain) and another comparatively clean (off Banyuls-sur-Mer, France). Statistical data analysis confirmed the accumulation of PAHs in the SML with respect to the SSW (20.3+/-9.1 vs. 13.1+/-10.0 ng L(-1) in the dissolved phase; 709+/-207 vs. 158+/-111 ng g(-1) in the particulate phase). This accumulation was higher at the contaminated location (Barcelona station) compared with the more pristine one, with PAH enrichments 1.5 and 4.5 times higher for the dissolved and particulate phases, respectively, indicating that the enrichment of PAHs in the SML is dominated by particle transport processes.     

Seasonal cycle of surface circulation in the coastal North Indian Ocean

Monthly-mean winds and currents have been used to identify the driving mechanisms of seasonal coastal circulation in the North Indian Ocean. The main conclusions are: (i) the surface circulation off Arabia is typical of a wind-driven system with similar patterns of longshore current and wind stress; (ii) circulation off the west coast of India is consistent with the dynamics of a wind-driven eastern boundary current only during the southwest monsoon. During the northeast monsoon it is possible that the influence of the interior flow is important. (iii) There are at least three mechanisms that influence the surface circulation off the east coast of India: wind-stress, influence of fresh-water run off and contribution of the interior flow. It is difficult at present to assess the relative importance of these three processes.     

山东荣成湾月湖口门落潮干道的推移质输运

改进了Gao等 ( 1 994)方法 ,并用以计算潮汐汊道口门落潮干道的垂线平均流速。利用月湖潮汐汊道系统冬、夏季各一个月的潮位资料 ,计算落潮干道的潮流流速和推移质输运率。结果表明 ,流速的计算值和实测值呈良好的相关性 ,落潮干道内落潮流的输沙能力高于涨潮流输沙能力     

Relative dispersion in the Liguro-Provençal basin: From sub-mesoscale to mesoscale

Relative dispersion in the Liguro-Provençal basin (a subregion of the Mediterranean Sea) is investigated using clusters of surface drifters deployed during two Marine Rapid Environment Assessment (MREA) experiments covering different months in 2007 and 2008, respectively. The clusters have initial radii of less than 1 km, or an order of magnitude below a typical deformation radius (approximately 10-20 km). The data set consists of 45 original pairs and more than 50 total pairs (including chance ones) in the spatial range between 1 and 200 km. Relative dispersion is estimated using the mean square separation of particle pairs and the Finite Scale Lyapunov Exponents (FSLEs). The two metrics show broadly consistent results, indicating in particular a clear exponential behaviour with an e-folding time scale between 0.5 and 1 days, or Lyapunov exponent ?? in the range of 0.7-1 days⁻¹. The exponential phase extends for 4-7 days in time and between 1 and 10-20 km in separation space. To our knowledge, this is only the third time that an exponential regime is observed in the world ocean from drifter data. This result suggests that relative dispersion in the Liguro-Provençal basin is nonlocal, namely controlled mainly by mesoscale dynamics, and that the effects of the sub-mesoscale motions are negligible in comparison. NCOM model results are used to complement the data and to quantify errors arising from the sparse sampling in the observations.     

Neural network modelling of planform geometry of headland-bay beaches

The shoreline of beaches in the lee of coastal salients or man-made structures, usually known as headland-bay beaches, has a distinctive curvature; wave fronts curve as a result of wave diffraction at the headland and in turn cause the shoreline to bend. The ensuing curved planform is of great interest both as a peculiar landform and in the context of engineering projects in which it is necessary to predict how a coastal structure will affect the sandy shoreline in its lee. A number of empirical models have been put forward, each based on a specific equation. A novel approach, based on the application of artificial neural networks, is presented in this work. Unlike the conventional method, no particular equation of the planform is embedded in the model. Instead, it is the model itself that learns about the problem from a series of examples of headland-bay beaches (the training set) and thereafter applies this self-acquired knowledge to other cases (the test set) for validation. Twenty-three headland-bay beaches from around the world were selected, of which sixteen and seven make up the training and test sets, respectively. As there is no well-developed theory for deciding upon the most convenient neural network architecture to deal with a particular data set, an experimental study was conducted in which ten different architectures with one and two hidden neuron layers and five training algorithms – 50 different options combining network architecture and training algorithm – were compared. Each of these options was implemented, trained and tested in order to find the best-performing approach for modelling the planform of headland-bay beaches. Finally, the selected neural network model was compared with a state-of-the-art planform model and was shown to outperform it.     

Mudbank regime off the Kerala coast during monsoon and non-monsoon seasons

Field experiments conducted in the nearshore ocean to understand the dynamics of mudbank off Kerala, south-west coast of India, are highlighted. Real time monitoring of the nearshore ocean off Purakkad, Kerala was accomplished using pressure transducers for nearshore surface wave measurements, and current sensors for nearshore velocity measurements. Comprehensive information on the spatial structure of mudbank was obtained from aerial surveys. Extensive data collected on surface waves and currents in the nearshore ocean, indicate that the infra-gravity (IG) waves (leaky modes and trapped edge wave modes), and far infra-gravity (FIG) waves coupled with strong shoreline reflections and undertow play an important role in the dynamics associated with the mudbanks off Kerala during the monsoon season. During the non-monsoon season evidence for progressive edge waves in the infragravity frequency band, an energetic gravity wave band and a strong undertow with weak reflections was observed.     

Sea Level Variations Associated with Upwelling/ Downwelling Along the West Coast of India

A three-dimensional numerical model is developed and used to study the coastal upwelling processes and corresponding seasonal changes in the sea level along the west coast of India. The upwelling and associated sea level variations are seen as a response of coastal ocean to pure wind stress forcing. The model is designed to represent coastal ocean physics by resolving surface and bottom Ekman layers as realistically as possible. The prognostic variables are the three components of the velocity field, temperature, salinity and turbulent energy. The governing equations together with their boundary conditions are solved by finite-difference techniques. Experiments are performed to investigate sea level fluctuations associated with the thermal response and alongshore currents of the coastal waters. The model is forced with mean monthly wind stress forcing of January, May, July and September representing northeast monsoon and different phases of the southwest monsoon. It is known from the observational study that the upwelling process reaches to the surface waters by May along the coastal waters of the extreme southwest peninsular region. The process is more intense in July compared to May and September and its strength decreases from south to north. However, during the northeast monsoon season, which is represented by January wind stress forcing in the model, downwelling is simulated along the coast. The model simulations of the coastal response are compared with the observations and are found to be in good agreement. The maximum computed vertical velocity of about 2.0 2 10 -3 cm s -1 is predicted in July in the southern region off the coast.     

A pleistocene mummified ostracod from the Wairarapa district

A mummified specimen of Scottia insularis Chapman is recorded from beds of Upper Nukumaruan age (Pleistocene) at Gladstone in the Wairarapa Valley. This is the first record of a mummified species from New Zealand.