Wave reflection from partially perforated-wall caisson breakwater

In 1995, Suh and Park developed a numerical model that computes the reflection of regular waves from a fully perforated-wall caisson breakwater. This paper describes how to apply this model to a partially perforated-wall caisson and irregular waves. To examine the performance of the model, existing experimental data are used for regular waves, while a laboratory experiment is conducted in this study for irregular waves. The numerical model based on a linear wave theory tends to over-predict the reflection coefficient of regular waves as the wave nonlinearity increases, but such an over-prediction is not observed in the case of irregular waves. For both regular and irregular waves, the numerical model slightly over- and under-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger and smaller values, respectively, because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater.     

南四湖湖内浅槽工程施工对水环境的影响及控制措施

南四湖湖内工程是沂沭泗河洪水东调南下续建工程的单项工程,工程区位于山东省省级自然保护区内;挖泥船施工将对湖内水环境产生一定影响。本文从排泥场回水污染物、生产废水和生活污水三个方面阐述了工程施工对水环境的影响程度,并且提出了相应的控制措施。     

Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: Part I temporal and spatial characteristics

Empirical orthogonal functions (EOFs) or principal components were used to extract the significant modes of shoreline variability from several data sets collected at three very different locations. Although EOFs have proven to be a valuable tool in the analysis of nearshore data, most applications have focused on the ability of the technique to describe cross-shore or profile variability. Here however, EOFs were used to help identify the dominant modes of longshore shoreline variability at Duck, North Carolina, the Gold Coast, Australia, and at several locations within the Columbia River Littoral Cell in the U.S. Pacific Northwest. In part one of this analysis, characteristic patterns of shoreline variability identified by the EOF analysis are described in detail. At each site, the dominant modes consisting of the first four eigenfunctions were found to describe nearly 95% of the total shoreline variability. At both Duck and the Gold Coast, several interesting longshore periodic features suggestive of sand waves were identified, while boundary effects related to natural headlands and navigational structures/entrances dominated the Pacific Northwest data sets.     

An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.     

黄海表层盐度年变化的谐波分析

本文采用黄海（３５°Ｎ以北，１２４°Ｅ以西）断面调查资料，对海域表层盐度年变化进行谐波分析，讨论了年波与半年波位相与振幅在海区的分 布不同水系消长及运动的关系。     

黑潮水入侵南海的水文分析──Ⅱ.1994年8—9月期间的观测结果

利用1994年8－9月期间，由台湾海峡两岸的4艘海洋调查船在南海东北部海域所获之CTD和ADCP资料，并结合1992年3月间在同一海域获取的CTD资料及部分历史水文资料，对该区域的海水特性以及黑潮水入侵南海等问题进行了分析探讨。结果表明：调查期间，本海区水团分布与冬末、春初（1992年3月）航次基本相似，即南海和西北太平洋海域的海水结构有着各自相对独立的温、盐度特性。虽发现有黑潮水穿越巴上海峡进入南海，但其势力甚弱。因此，在夏末秋初，黑潮亦无直接的分支深入南海，即使在巴士海峡北端进入台湾海峡的黑潮水，其影响也是十分微弱的。由等密度面、地转流分析和实测ADCP资料显示，在调查海区的东南海域存在一支较强的N向流动。它沿菲律宾西海岸北上，绕过吕宋岛西北角流向东北，在巴上海峡呈现与黑潮水混合的迹象，其水体在冬季明显呈高温、低盐的特性；夏季则为相对低温、低盐。故在冬季的几幅卫星图像上也有较好的体现，很有可能长年存在。     

山东半岛东部,北部地区冬季冷流低云的探讨

本文主要对山东半岛东部、北部及渤海海峡地区的地方性天气－冷流低云，作了初步的分析。着重分析产生这种低云的环流特点及殊地理环境，分析归纳出这种低云的预测方法及判据。     

西太平洋暖池区热带波动的天气效应

为了探讨西太平洋暧地区热带波动的天气效应，利用1980年2－9月140°E日本静止卫星纬度时间剖面卫星云图，分析了5d和14d左右周期热带波动云的演变特征，井综合分析了14d周期的云系演变型式与流场的关系，为预报热带中期天气变化规律提供了依据；热带波动中30－60d大气低频振荡的云量变化最显著，北半球夏半年热带波动的天气压主要在10°N－0°，各半年在10°N－10°S，超过这个区域热带云量的港分布型式就有明显的变化。     

A study of Coriolis effects on long waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin

The effects of Coriolis force on long waves have been discussed based on gravity waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin. In case of ocean, results show that the Coriolis effect will be significant and negligible, when the wave period is comparable to 2π/f and much shorter, respectively. Results also show in a channel, the wave amplitude and water particle velocity decrease exponentially in the positive y direction in the northern hemisphere (where f is positive). Moreover, in a basin, the Cotidal lines have been found as curves and rotate counterclockwise around the origin.     

用新显色剂3-甲氧基-甲亚胺H光度测定海水中的硼

采用新试剂３－甲氧基－甲亚胺Ｈ测定海水中的硼，加入ＥＤＴＡ和酒石酸掩蔽各种干扰离子，不须分离可直接测定，方法简便、快速、准确。