楮岛沙滩不同时间尺度变化特征与波能流密度相关性探讨

在波浪和水流的作用下,泥沙在不同时间尺度下的运动会引起沙滩的冲淤演变,对海岸资源有重要的影响。因此,了解沙滩季节性演变规律,并采取针对性的防护措施,是近岸沙滩亟须解决的问题。目前,现场观测是研究沙滩剖面冲淤演变的重要方法,通过沉积物组成、岸滩坡度及波浪动力的时空变化,了解沙滩剖面的变化特性,对于沙滩管理和海岸保护具有十分重要的意义。基于2017年9月—2019年11月在荣成楮岛南岸沙滩每个月采集一次的剖面数据,以及波浪动力数据,分别探究了沙滩在不同时间尺度下的变化特征,并对沙滩变化特征与波浪动力因素的相关性进行了探讨。研究发现：楮岛南岸沙滩形态变化具有较强的季节性特征,春季沙滩比较稳定;夏季沙滩受台风影响侵蚀严重,但在风暴过后的短时间内,沙滩泥沙恢复较快;冬季沙滩恢复速度逐渐减缓并趋于稳定。在夏季和冬季期间,波能流密度的向岸分量对楮岛南沙滩的演变产生重要作用,而且波能流密度向岸分量的均值（选取数据采集前15 d的波浪条件参与计算）与沙滩体积的相关性最好,并给出了两者的线性拟合公式。     

Statistical simulation of wave climate and extreme beach erosion

Recent developments in extreme values modelling have been used to develop a framework for determining the coastal erosion hazard on sandy coastlines. This framework quantitatively reproduced the extreme beach erosion volumes obtained from field measurements at Narrabeen Beach, Australia. This encouraging finding was achieved using Kriebel and Dean's [Kriebel, D.L. and Dean, R.G., 1993. Convolution method for time-dependent beach profile response. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 119(2): 204–226.] simple beach erosion and accretion model. The method includes allowances for joint probability between all basic erosion variates including; wave height, period and direction, event duration, tidal anomalies and event spacing. A new formulation for the dependency between wave height and period has been developed. It includes the physical wave steepness limitation. Event grouping, where significantly more erosion can occur from two closely spaced storms is handled by temporally simulating the synthetic wave climate and the resulting beach erosion and accretion.     

Evaluation of the physical process controlling beach changes adjacent to nearshore dredge pits

Numerical modeling of a beach nourishment project is conducted to enable a detailed evaluation of the processes associated with the effects of nearshore dredge pits on nourishment evolution and formation of erosion hot spots. A process-based numerical model, Delft3D, is used for this purpose. The analysis is based on the modification of existing bathymetry to simulate “what if” scenarios with/without the bathymetric features of interest. Borrow pits dredged about 30 years ago to provide sand for the nourishment project have a significant influence on project performance and formation of erosional hot spots. It was found that the main processes controlling beach response to these offshore bathymetric features were feedbacks between wave forces (roller force or alongshore component of the radiation stress), pressure gradients due to differentials in wave set-up/set-down and bed shear stress. Modeling results also indicated that backfilling of selected borrow sites showed a net positive effect within the beach fill limits and caused a reduction in the magnitude of hot spot erosion.     

半遮蔽型海滩剖面长期时空演化过程的经验正交函数分析

半遮蔽型海滩由于一侧海岬的差异作用而影响海滩的演变过程.本文以青岛石老人海水浴场海滩为例,基于对3条典型剖面连续11年现场监测的高程数据,利用经验正交函数(empirical orthogonal function,EOF)分析方法将该海滩各剖面高程数据组成的原始距平矩阵依次分解为相应的空间和时间特征函数,分析了石老人...     

松辽盆地长垣以西高台子油层沉积特征与油气分布规律

应用高分辨率层序地层学理论,通过对各级基准面旋回的沉积动力学分析,依据25口井岩芯和596口井测井、录井及分析化验资料,把松辽盆地长垣以西地区高台子油层划分为1个长期基准面旋回、5个中期基准面旋回、13个短期基准面旋回,提出了高台子油层北、西部为同沉积构造抬升控制的顶部缺失的层序地层新格架.对储层沉积特征进行精细研究,...     

杭州湾南岸庵东潮坪现代沉积特征

在进行庵东潮坪水文要素定点测量的基础上,对地貌特征,沉积粒度,沉积构造及重向剖面作了全面分析与研究。结果表明,滩地位于杭州湾进、退潮流的交会点,控制其发育的主动力为潮汐作用,具明显的不规则半日潮特性,涨潮流强度远大于落潮流,造就了宽达十余公里的潮滩地貌。滩地水动力深受湾内水流影响,高潮期服从其总体潮流流向,导致潮坪上发育众多与杭州湾深槽系统相连的潮沟,破坏了沉积物正常分布规律,高潮坪存在一定向平行岸线的大型潮沟,受强劲水流影响,沉积粒度粗化,并因快冲快淤而产生变形构造;中潮坪接受退潮期潮沟漫岸物质,粒度相对较小,分选性变差,沉积构造以直脊流水波痕及板状交错层理为主;低潮坪潮流作用大、沉积粒度粗,分选性最佳,发育小型流水波痕,内部构造以槽状交错层理,“青鱼刺”层理及再作用构造为特征。潮坪近岸处潮沟迁移层序及浪成波痕层理的发现反映水动力异常强大,威胁人工海塘的安全,建议停止进一步围垦滩涂,采取促淤方法,抑制潮沟的发育,以维持滩地稳定。     

Internal structure of a barrier beach as revealed by ground penetrating radar (GPR): Chesil beach, UK

Chesil Beach (Dorset) is one of the most famous coastal landforms on the British coast. The gravel beach is over 18 km long and is separated for much of its length from land by a tidal lagoon known as The Fleet. The beach links the Isle of Portland in the east to the mainland in the west. Despite its iconic status there is little available information on its internal geometry and evolutionary history. Here we present a three-fold model for the evolution of Chesil Beach based on a series of nine ground penetrating radar (GPR) traverses located at three sites along its length at Abbotsbury, Langton Herring and at Ferry Bridge. The GPR traverses reveal a remarkably consistent picture of the internal structure of this barrier beach. The first phase of evolution involves the landward transgression of a small sand and gravel beach which closed upon the coast leading to deposition of freshwater peat between 5 and 7 k yr BP. The second evolutionary phase involves the ‘bulking-out’ of the beach during continued sea level rise, but in the presence of abundant gravel supplied by down-drift erosion of periglacial slope deposits. This episode of growth was associated with a series of washover fans which accumulated on the landward flank of the barrier increasing its breadth and height but without significant landward transgression of the barrier as a whole. The final phase in the evolution of Chesil Beach involves the seaward progradation of the beach crest and upper beach face associated with continued sediment abundance, but during a still-stand or slight fall in relative sea level. This phase may provide further evidence of a slight fall in relative sea level noted elsewhere along the South Coast of Britain and dated to between 1.2 and 2.4 k yr BP. Subsequently the barrier appears to have become largely inactive, except for the reworking of sediment on the beach face during storm events. The case study not only refines the evolutionary picture of Chesil Beach, but illustrates the importance of the subtle interplay between relative sea level and sediment supply in the evolution of a barrier system. In addition, it also illustrates the potential of GPR in resolving the evolutionary history of gravel-rich coastal landforms such as Chesil Beach.     

Development and management of a coastal litter campaign: The voluntary coastal partnership approach

The Forth Estuary Forum's Coastal Litter Campaign aimed to develop and implement a community involvement and public awareness-raising programme intended to tackle and monitor the issue of marine litter in the Firth of Forth, Scotland. Beach cleans are an excellent public participation exercise, focusing the public's attention on the issue of marine litter and creating a sense of environmental responsibility. Raising public awareness is the only guaranteed way of reducing marine litter. A combination of education, provision of adequate waste reception facilities and enforcement of legislation is needed to tackle beach litter.     

Analysis of coastal damage of a beach profile under the protection of emergent vegetation

The primary objective of the study was to experimentally explore the protection performance of the emergent vegetation on the morphological changes of a coastal zone. The experiments were conducted under both regular and irregular waves in two different wave flumes. A dimensionless number was derived to characterize the beach profile response under the protection of emergent vegetation. Accordingly, empirical relations were derived that explained the pattern exhibited by the experimental data. The list of wave parameters and beach erosion related functions were incorporated in relation to vegetation intensity in order to define coastal zone response. The relationships of these functions followed good trends with the derived dimensionless number. The findings showed that fall speed parameter is not necessarily involved whereas depth parameter is an important factor while defining the damage. The damage parameter is also considered to formulate the limits of dynamic and static stability of beach profiles under the protection of emergent vegetation.