Coastal Placer Deposits of Central Tamil Nadu, India

Placer mineral exploration has been undertaken along the beach of Central Tamil Nadu coast from Pondicherry to Vedaranyam. On the basis of the drainage network, geomorphology, and the coastal environment, the study area has been grouped into three sectors, North, Central, and South. Heavy mineral by Wt% shows a slightly higher abundance in the Northern sector, an enrichment of opaques in the Central sector from stations between Poompuhar and Karaikal, and a total depletion in the Southern sector. An abundance of heavies in the Northern sector is considered to be the result of a higher wave energy, and the cymatogenic downwarping of the basin during the present transgression. An enrichment of heavies in the Central sector from Poompuhar to Karaikal is attributable to the reworking of the beach ridges, which were submerged during the present transgression, and to the role of density sorting. A depletion of heavies in the Southern sector is accounted for by the absence of a terrigenous supply and the prevalence of wave shadow conditions throughout the year. The nature of the heavy mineral assemblage reflects the derivation of sediments principally from khondalites, granites, metamorphic rocks and paleo-sediments. Factor analysis also supplements the predominant role of a density factor in the segregation of heavy minerals in the study area. A five-stage model is proposed for the formation of placer deposits in the study region. The present study has disclosed rich concentrations of ilmenites in the central sector between Poompuhar and Karaikal that can be commercially exploited.     

The Beach Environment in Mexico as a Potential Source of Placer Minerals

The potential of Mexico for placer minerals in beach sediments has been analyzed, taking into consideration the geomorphic, tectonic, and lithologic conditions of nine different coastal regions. Besides, the textural characteristics of average size and degree of classification, carbonate content was also considered as a measure of terrigenous influence. It is concluded that mineral bearing rocks in the source area, and well-classified fine sands, poor in carbonates, in the beach area represent the major potential for placer minerals. Favorable conditions for placer minerals may be present in Regions 2 and 3 in the Central and Southern portion of the Gulf of Mexico coast, and have their highest potential in Regions 6, 7, 8, and 9 in the Gulf of California and along the Western mainland coast from the Colorado River in the North to the Guatamalan border in the South.     

岬间海滩剖面短期变化的动力作用分析

根据粤东寮嘴口岬间海滩重复测量的剖面数据及实测波，风资料，运用交叉谱等方法分析了寮河口海滩剖面短期变化过程的主要动力作用，结果表明海滩短期的变化过程主要是响应风应力，波浪及台风大浪动力的作用。     

Even–odd analysis on a complex shoreline

An even–odd signal decomposition is performed on a complex shoreline having a longshore sediment transport gradient. The expected impact of erosion due to a navigation channel and structures is discussed and implications of the transport gradient on the decomposed shoreline signal are noted.     

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.     

Spatial Variations in Particle Size and Magnetite Concentration on Cedar Beach: Implications for Grain-Sorting Processes, Western Lake Erie, Canada

<正>This study examined spatial variations in the concentration,grain size and heavy mineral assemblages on Cedar Beach(Lake Erie,Canada).Magnetic studies of heavy mineral-enriched,dark-reddish sands present on the beach showed that magnetite(～150μm) is the dominant magnetic mineral.Surficial magnetic susceptibility values defined three zones:a lakeward region close to the water line(Zone 1),the upper swash zone(Zone 2) and the region landwards of the upper swash zone (Zone 3).Zone 2 showed the highest bulk and mass susceptibility(κ,χ) and the highest mass percentage of smaller grain-size(250μm) fractions in the bulk sand sample.Susceptibility(i.e.κandχ) values decreased and grain size coarsened from Zone 2 lakewards(into Zone 1) and landwards (into Zone 3),and correlated with the distribution of the heavy mineral assemblage,most probably reflecting preferential separation of large,less dense particles by waves and currents both along and across the beach.The eroded western section of Cedar Beach showed much higher concentrations of heavy minerals including magnetite,and finer sand grain sizes than the accreting eastern section, suggesting that magnetic techniques could be used as a rapid,cost-effective way of examining erosion along sensitive coastline areas.     

Internal structure of a trough blowout, determined from migrated ground-penetrating radar profiles

Ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) was used to investigate the relationship between the geomorphological development of a large aeolian trough blowout and the stratigraphy and internal sedimentary structure of its associated deposits. Although analogous, many of the data‐processing techniques routinely applied in seismic reflection are very rarely applied in GPR studies. In this study, a simple migration program was used that significantly enhanced the quality of GPR images from a large trough blowout at Raven Meols on the Sefton coast, northwest England. These improvements aided subsequent data interpretation, which was achieved through application of the principles of radar stratigraphy. GPR shows the pre‐blowout dunes to have a complex internal structure that suggests they were formed in the presence of at least a partial vegetation cover. Subsequent to stabilization of these dunes a thin soil developed. This dune soil forms an important radar sequence boundary and delineates a complex topography beneath the depositional lobe of the blowout. The internal structure of the depositional lobe of the blowout does not conform to a model of simple radial foreset deposition, as derived from contemporary process studies reported in the literature. Instead, the pattern of deposition has been extensively modified by the antecedent dune topography and by varying spatial and temporal exposure to important sand‐transporting winds that is partly controlled by interactions between the regional wind pattern and local dune morphology. Trough blowout deposits in coastal aeolian sedimentary sequences are likely to be recognized by the presence of laterally continuous packets of relatively high‐angle cross‐strata, which often display a spatially‐variable radial dip pattern that is only very poorly or partially developed. In addition, a soil, or other surface representing a significant hiatus in dune deposition, is likely to underlie the blowout deposits, the topography of which will show a clear relationship to the dip and orientation of the overlying cross‐strata.     

A morphodynamic model for beach gradients

This paper outlines a general framework for analysis of the problem of beach gradients which divides the system into: (1) the independent controls, (2) the hydrodynamics, (3) the sediment dynamics, and (4) the morphodynamics. A model is derived from the combination of these stages which shows close agreement with field data for wave steepnesses of less than about 0.06, but predicts lower beach gradients than arc observed for steeper waves. The use of ‘analytical feedback’ in the present model rather than the ‘iterative feedback’ which is used in computer simulations demonstrates that differential sediment transport may be responsible for stabilizing the beach gradient.     

Municipal initiatives for managing dunes in coastal residential areas: a case study of Avalon, New Jersey, USA

The characteristics of foredunes created in a municipal management program on a developed barrier island are evaluated to identify how landforms used as protection structures can be natural in appearance and function yet compatible with human values. Shoreline management zones include a naturally evolving, undeveloped segment; a noneroding, developed segment; eroding and noneroding segments of an “improved beach” where dunes have been built by artificial nourishment; and a privately built, artificially nourished dune on the shoreline of an inlet.A disastrous storm in 1962 resulted in an aggressive program for building dunes using sand fences, vegetation plantings, purchase of undeveloped lots, and sediment backpassing to maintain beach widths and dune elevations. The present nourished and shaped foredune in the improved beach is higher, wider, and closer to the berm crest than the natural dune. Restricted inputs of aeolian sand keep the surface flat and poorly vegetated. A stable section of this engineered shore has a wider beach, and sand fences have created a higher foredune with greater topographic diversity. The cross shore zonation of vegetation here is more typical of natural dunes, but the environmental gradient is much narrower. The privately built dune is low, narrow, and located where it could not be created naturally. Foreshore and aeolian sediments in the undeveloped segment and the improved beach are similar in mean grain size (0.16–0.21 mm) and sorting (0.31–0.39φ), but sediment on the surface of the nourished dune is coarser (28.1% gravel) with a more poorly sorted sand fraction (1.30φ) representing lag elements on the deflation surface.Willingness to enhance beaches and dunes for protection has reduced insurance premiums and allowed the municipality to qualify for funds from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) to replace lost sediment, thus placing an economic value on dunes. Success of the management program is attributed to: (i) timing property-purchase and dune-building programs to periods immediately after storms (causing residents to accept high dunes that restrict access or views); (ii) instituting a vigorous education program (reminding residents of hazards during nonstorm periods); (iii) maintaining control over local sediment supplies (to keep pace with erosion and create new shoreline environments); (iv) investing private and municipal economic resources in landforms (qualifying them for external funds for replacement); and (v) maintaining, augmenting, or simply tolerating biodiversity and natural processes (retaining a natural heritage).