Study on the characteristics of the marine boundary layer in the Equatorial Pacific

ＳｔｕｄｙｏｎｔｈｅｃｈａｒａｃｔｅｒｉｓｔｉｃｓｏｆｔｈｅｍａｒｉｎｅｂｏｕｎｄａｒｙｌａｙｅｒｉｎｔｈｅＥｑｕａｔｏｒｉａｌＰａｃｉｆｉｃ￥ＺｈａｎｇＺｉｙｕａｎｄＺｈｏｕＭｉｎｇｙｕ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＡｕｇｕｓｔ２１，１９９３；ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄ...     

A phase-averaged Boussinesq model with effective description of carrier wave group and associated long wave evolution

From the phase-resolving improved Boussinesq equations (Beji and Nadaoka, Ocean Engineering 23 (1996) 691), a phase-averaged Boussinesq model for water waves is derived by more effectively describing carrier wave groups and accompanying long wave evolution with less CPU time. Linear shoaling characteristics of carrier wave equations are investigated and found to agree exactly with the analytical expression obtained from the constancy of energy flux for the improved Boussinesq equations themselves, showing that the present model equations are the results of a consistent derivation procedure regarding energy considerations. Numerical simulations of the derived equations for the single wave group and narrow-banded random waves show the validity of the present model and its high performance, especially on the CPU time.     

Effects of high-order nonlinear interactions on unidirectional wave trains

Numerical simulations of gravity waves with high-order nonlinearities in two-dimensional domain are performed by using the pseudo spectral method. High-order nonlinearities more than third order excite apparently chaotic evolutions of the Fourier energy in deep water random waves. The high-order nonlinearities increase kurtosis, wave height distribution and H_max/H_1/3 in deep water and decrease these wave statistics in shallow water. Moreover, they can generate a single extreme high wave with an outstanding crest height in deep water. High-order nonlinearities (more than third order) can be regarded as one cause of freak waves in deep water.     

Second-Order Wave Diffraction Around 3-D Bodies by A Time-Domain Method

A time-domain method is applied to simulate nonlinear wave diffraction around a surface piercing 3-D arbitrary body. The method involves the application of Taylor series expansions and the use of perturbation procedure to establish the corresponding boundary value problems with respect to a time-independent fluid domain. A boundary element method based on B-spline expansion is used to calculate the wave field at each time step, and the free surface boundary condition is satisfied to the second order of wave steepness by a numerical integration in time. An artificial damping layer is adopted on the free surface for the removal of wave reflection from the outer boundary. As an illustration, the method is used to compute the second-order wave forces and run-up on a surface-piercing circular cylinder. The present method is found to be accurate, computationally efficient, and numerically stable.     

Experimental Investigation of Instantaneous Properties of Wave Slamming on the Plate

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the instantaneous properties of wave slamming on the plate structure of an open structure.The advanced instantaneous measuring technique-Particle Image Velocimetry(PIV) is applied to acquire the instantaneous velocity field of wave slamming.From the cross-correlation analysis results of the images captured by the CCD camera,the flow fields of wave impacting on the structure are displayed visually,and the instantaneous whole-field fluid velocity vectors are obtained.The relation between the instantaneous peak impacting pressures and the instantaneous velocities of water particles is studied by probability analysis.     

北黄海长山群岛海域沉积环境初步研究

本文在获取１９８９－１９９３年黄海北部长山群岛海域沉积物大量数据基础上，借助沉积物粒度分析（Ｑ型），揭示出该海域具有在“岛屿效应”影响下的４种环境能量类型，分析了与其适应的环岛沉积环境及其分布特征。     

Spatial Variation in the Structure of Kelp Forest Communities Along a Wave Exposure Gradient

Abstract. Four sites were sampled in kelp (Macrocysiis pyrifera) forests occupying rocky bottom habitats along a wave exposure gradient in central California. Consistent betwecn-site differences were found in the three major structural elements - the surface canopy, the undcrstory assemblage, and the ground cover/turf assemblage - of kelp forest communities. Macrocysiis pyrifera was found at all four sites. Nereucyslis tuelkeana only at the most exposed site. The understory kelps Laminaria setchellii and Pterygopltora californica were also characteristic of exposed sites. Articulated coralline algae were more abundant at exposed sites than protected, while fleshy red algae showed the opposite pattern. All four study sites were located along 8.5 km of coastline, and thus were assumed to have available to them the same species pool for colonization. The substrate composition was the same and the amount of unconsolidated substrate was similar at all four sites. We suggest that exposure to wave-generated water motion, through its influence on the surface canopy and therefore on the amount of light reaching the bottom, is responsible for these between-site differences.     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

“暖池”表层对大气局地强迫的响应特征

利用湍流动能垂直混合模式和ＴＯＧＡ－ＣＯＡＲＥ加强观测期的观测资料,对“暖池”上混合层的垂直混合过程进行数值试验和数值模拟,分析表层温度、盐度的变化特征。结果表明：ＴＫＥ模式可以较好地模拟混层,尤其是表层温度、盐度对大气局地强迫的响应;太阳辐射是热源,感热、潜热通量等会造成“暖池”上混合层的温度降低,“暖池”对大气释放热量;降水有利于“淡水盖”形成和维持,从则使层结稳定,ＳＳＴ升高。但在气温低于海     

太平洋波高熵的分布变化规律研究

使用1992年IO月到1998年12月连续共75个月、230个重复周期的Topex／Poseidon卫星高度计有效波高资料，对南、北太平洋波高熵的空间分布特征和时间变化规律进行了研究。统计分析了太平洋波高熵的多年的空间分布特征和多年各月的时间变化规律。结果表明，太平洋波高熵呈现出中间低、南北高的马鞍形空间分布特征和明显季节变化的规律，与太平洋的平均有效波高和气候分布特征和变化规律相一致。给出了南北太平洋模拟波高熵的计算公式及计算稳定性检验。