Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

Acoustic plane-wave scattering from a rough surface over a random fluid medium

Acoustic plane-wave scattering from a rough surface overlying a fluid half-space with a sound-speed distribution subject to a small random variation is considered. Under the assumption that the surface roughness and medium randomness are statistically independent, the scattered field may be derived by first solving for the mean field in the medium, and then incorporating with boundary-perturbation method to obtain the total mean field and the power spectral density of the scattered field. The employed algorithm is compatible to the analysis available in the existing literature so that the formulations are conveniently integrated. The results for the power spectral density have shown that the effects of medium inhomogeneities on the rough surface scattering are limited in a spectral regime where the scattered components have shallow grazing angles. The distribution of the power spectral density over the space is primarily governed by the power spectrum and correlation lengths of the rough surface.     

空间扰动引力的谱分析

基于重力场的频谱理论，给出了扰动引力在全球平均意义下的功率谱表达式，揭示了扰动引力的传播特性。通过数值试验，给出了扰动引力随高度变化规律，并分析了不同高度上，扰动引力恢复重力场的最高阶数及相应分辨率。从理论上分析了航空重力测量探测重力场中高频信息的能力，对制定飞行方案有一定参考价值。     

南沙群岛海域水体漫衰减系数Kd(490)的特性研究

对南沙群岛海区水体Kd(490）的特性进行了深入分析和探讨,研究结果表明：Kd（490）的垂直分布与同步测量的海水叶绿素a浓度的垂直分布有很强的相关性;Kd（490）的垂直分布反映出该区域海水存在较强的分层现象,研究中还发现上行辐亮度漫衰减系数KL（490）与Kd（490）垂直变化趋势相当一致,但是以二者达到最大值的深度为界,上层水体的KL（490）值稍大于Kd(490）值,在这一深度以下则相反。     

Fluctuations of peak energy and peak frequency of local wavelet energy spectrum for wind waves

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长期非平稳荷载调谐质量减振阻尼器优化设计

研究外荷载为长期非平稳随机过程。考虑长期荷载的特性 ,采用 1个概率谱密度函数来反映长期非平稳随机荷载及其特征 ;概率谱密度函数是基于大量的一般谱密度函数的统计特性获得。以延长结构的抗疲劳使用寿命为目标函数 ,提出了调谐质量减振阻尼器的优化设计方法 ,这在实际工程中有着极为广阔的应用前景。本文旨在从理论上发展长期非平稳随机荷载作用下调谐质量减振阻尼器的优化设计方法 ;文中采用长期波浪实测数据 ,给出了 1个数值算例说明整个设计过程。     

厦门湾有色溶解有机物的光吸收特性研究

研究了厦门湾九龙江河口区、西海域、同安湾及东侧水道海水中有色溶解有机物(CDOM)的光吸收特性,分析了CDOM的河口行为,并讨论了CDOM光吸收特性与其荧光性质之间的关系。结果表明,厦门湾表层海水CDOM光吸收系数a(355)的水平分布表现为河口区最高、东侧水道最低、西海域和同安湾介于两者之间,底层水a(355)的分布与表层基本相似,表明陆源河流输入是厦门湾CDOM的主要来源;a(355)的垂直分布为表层高于底层,主要受水文和生物因素控制。厦门湾表层水CDOM光谱斜率S的平均值介于0.014—0.018nm-1,但河口低盐度区S值较小,反映陆源腐殖质的影响。a(355)在河口混合中呈保守行为,表明CDOM具有良好的保守性质。CDOM的吸收系数a(355)与其荧光强度之间表现为较好的相关关系,指示可以用灵敏度更高的荧光方法来研究CDOM的分布和行为。     

风浪周期分布与谱宽度的关系

本文通过分析实验室风浪周期分布,发现风浪周期累积概率分布曲线低于Longuet-Higgins理论结果,在小概率周期区域实验结果与理论结果的差异明显。对实验结果进一步分析发现,在谱不是很窄时,在小概率处风浪周期累积概率随谱宽度的增大而降低,这与窄谱假定下的理论结果相反,Longuet-Higgins理论结果在小概率处不便于描述周期分布随谱宽度的变化。根据实验结果提出风浪周期的Weibull分布经验公式,Weibull分布中的参数依赖于谱宽度。     

A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves

- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.     

基于高光谱Hyperion数据的线性光谱混合模型与神经网络模型的比较

混合像元问题是定量遥感中的热点问题之一,为了改进从遥感数据中提取定量信息,人们建立了各种混合光谱分解技术,其中线性光谱混合模型和神经网络模型就是两种比较成熟的方法。以陕西省横山地区的高光谱Hyperion数据为研究基础,通过最小噪声变换(MNF)、像元纯度指数(PPI)转换和RMS误差分析的迭代方法相结合提取影像中的纯净像元作为终端端元。分别运用神经网络模型和线性光谱混合模型对影像进行光谱分解,得到各个组分的分解图像。以标准植被指数(NDVI)影像为衡量标准,选取训练样本点,分别对两种模型进行回归分析,结果显示NDVI影像与线性光谱混合模型植被分解图像的判定系数(R2=0.91)要大于其与神经网络模型的判定系数(R2=0.81)。进一步分析表明在一般情况下,线性光谱混合模型具有比神经网络模型略高的分离精度,但是神经网络模型对细部信息的提取的效果要好于线性光谱混合模型,最后提出了端元均方根误差(EAR)指数,一种新的混合像元分解的思路。