波浪作用下岸坡和海底平衡条件的研究

提出波浪作用下岸坡和海底动态和静态平衡条件的数学模型。在已建立的推移质泥沙体积输沙率基本关系式的基础上,根据连续方程,计算出底坡、泥沙、波浪三要素在动态和静态平衡情况下的关系式,得出反映这种关系的底坡平衡函数曲线图。用实际资料对这一函数曲线进行了验证,并对实际资料相对模型的某些差异作出解释。     

Overtopping Discharge of Wind-Waves on Simple Slope Dikes

An empirical formula for estimating the overtopping discharge of wind-waves on a smooth-impermeable-simple slope dyke is derived through model tests in this paper, it can be adopted by related design departments in the determination of the crest elevation of the dyke.     

珊瑚礁岩心声速垂向跃变及其指相意义

本文在南沙群岛永署礁南永1井珊瑚礁岩心声速测量的基础上，研究了珊瑚礁岩心声速的垂向跃变特征和相应地层沉积相变及地层侵蚀间断面的关系，分析了珊瑚礁岩心相变造成其声速跃变的原因，阐明了海平面升降形式珊瑚礁地层侵蚀间断面和产生相变的具体过程, 明了珊瑚礁岩心声速垂向跃变与相应地层古气候和海平面变化的关系，该项研究在岛礁工程建设和礁灰岩区石油勘探声学测井以及西太平洋边缘海古海洋学研究学方面具有重要的实用价值和理论意义。     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

地层学的发展推动油气地质理论研究的进步

自上个世纪50年代以来,地层学经历了彻底的变革,逐渐由“相模式”、“沉积体系”、“地震地层学”发展到目前的“层序地层学”,形成高分辨率层序地层学和事件地层学的理论体系和研究方法。文章围绕层序地层学、高分辨率层序地层学基本方法及理论体系,与含油气系统相关关系进行了讨论。     

均匀土质边坡稳定性计算的一种新方法

根据土力学原理 ,推导出一种在不考虑渗流力的情况下 ,确定斜坡临界滑动面和计算斜坡稳定系数的新方法。介绍了该方法在若干土石方工程中的应用实例。     

山东莱州仓上泻湖Y86孔微量元素地球化学特征及沉积相判别

本文通过对山东莱州仓上泻湖Y86孔柱状样的系统取样，利用X荧光光谱分析了沉积柱状样品中的主要微量元素含量，结合已有的粒度分析、微体古生物及孢粉结果相分析对比，对泻湖沉积相进行地球化学判别，结果表明，Rb，Cr，Nb，Ni，Rb，Sr，Th，V，Zn，Zr等元素含量及Sr／Ba，Sr／Ca、Mn／Fe比值在不同的沉积相中均有明显的变异特征。因此可根据泻湖沉积物中的微量元素含量及Sr／Ba，Sr／Ca，Mn／Fe比值判别泻湖沉积环境及沉积相。     

Periodic Intrusion of Cold Water from the Pacific Ocean into the Bottom Layer of the Bungo Channel in Japan

A cold-water intrusion, called a “bottom intrusion”, occurs in the lower layer of the Bungo Channel in Japan. It is an intrusion from the shelf slope region of the Pacific Ocean margin in the south of the channel. In order to reveal the fundamental characteristics of the bottom intrusion, we conducted long-term observations of water temperature at the surface and bottom layers of the channel and 15-day current observations at the bottom of the shelf-break region. The long-term water temperature data indicated that the bottom intrusion occurs repeatedly between early summer and late autumn, and its reiteration between early and mid-summer causes a local minimum of water temperature in the lower layer in mid-summer. Moreover, the data revealed that most of the bottom intrusions occurred in neap tidal periods. The current meter recorded a bottom intrusion with a speed of approximately 15 cm⋅s⁻¹. The current meter also revealed that the intruded cold water slowly retreated back to the shelf slope region after the intrusion. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.     

南沙群岛海区晚第四纪碳酸盐沉积

本文研究了五个柱状沉积物的碳酸盐沉积。根据沉积物的陆源碎屑和生物骨屑ＣａＣＯ３沉积作用的特点，把本区沉积物分为五种沉积类；碳酸盐生物组成的门类较多，以有孔虫为主，其次为珊瑚，腹足类等；碳酸盐矿物以低镁方解石为主，还有高镁方解石和文石；与沉积物中ＣａＣＯ３有关的化学元素１０多种。这些元素和稀土元素的含量，比值等，是区分礁相，礁体过渡带和非礁相的标志。所有这些碳酸盐沉积作用的特点表明，区内存在着五种沉