The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).     

The impact of shrimp trawling and associated sediment resuspension in mud dominated, shallow estuaries

To address the relative importance of shrimp trawling on seabed resuspension and bottom characteristics in shallow estuaries, a series of disturbance and monitoring experiments were conducted at a bay bottom mud site (2.5 m depth) in Galveston Bay, Texas in July 1998 and May 1999. Based on pre- and post-trawl sediment profiles of ⁷Be; pore water dissolved oxygen and sulfide concentration; and bulk sediment properties, it was estimated that the trawl rig, including the net, trawl doors, and “tickler chain,” excavate the seabed to a maximum depth of approximately 1.5 cm, with most areas displaying considerably less disturbance. Water column profile data in the turbid plume left by the trawl in these underconsolidated muds (85–90% porosity; <0.25 kPa undrained shear strength) demonstrate that suspended sediment inventories of up to 85–90 mg/cm² are produced immediately behind the trawl net; an order of magnitude higher than pre-trawl inventories and comparable to those observed during a 9–10 m/s wind event at the study site. Plume settling and dispersion caused suspended sediment inventories to return to pre-trawl values about 14 min after trawl passage in two separate experiments, indicating particles re-settle primarily as flocs before they can be widely dispersed by local currents. As a result of the passage of the trawl rig across the seabed, shear strength of the sediment surface showed no significant increase, suggesting that bed armoring is not taking place and the trawled areas will not show an increase in critical shear stress.     

胶州湾围隔浮游生态系统氮、磷营养盐迁移-转化模型研究

通过对目前生态动力学模型的总结和综合,以生态系统中氮、磷营养盐循环为主线,建立了适用于海洋围隔浮游生态系统的多变量的营养盐迁移-转化动力学模型.该模型包括浮游植物、浮游动物、溶解无机态营养盐、溶解有机态营养盐和生物碎屑5个模块,涉及溶解无机氮、磷酸盐、溶解有机氮、溶解有机磷、浮游植物、浮游动物和生物碎屑7个状态变量.分别利用1999年秋季和2000年夏季胶州湾围隔生态实验数据进行了模型和验证工作,成功地模拟了富加营养盐条件下围隔浮游生态系统中氮、磷营养盐生物化学迁移-转化过程,并确定了20余个参数的量值.     

Wind-driven interannual variability over the northeast Pacific Ocean

Interannual variability of the sea surface height (SSH) over the northeast Pacific Ocean is hindcast with a reduced-gravity, quasi-geostrophic model that includes linear damping. The model is forced with monthly Ekman pumping fields derived from the NCEP reanalysis wind stresses. The numerical solution is compared with SSH observations derived from satellite altimeter data and gridded at a lateral resolution of 1 degree. Provided that the reduced gravity parameter is chosen appropriately, the results demonstrate that the model has significant hindcast skill over interior regions of the basin, away from continental boundaries. A damping time scale of 2 to 3 years is close to optimal, although the hindcast skill is not strongly dependent on this parameter.A simplification of the quasi-geostrophic model is considered in which Rossby waves are eliminated, yielding a Markov model driven by local Ekman pumping. The results approximately reproduce the hindcast skill of the more complete quasi-geostrophic model and indicate that the interannual SSH variability is dominated by the local response to wind forcing. There is a close correspondence the two leading empirical orthogonal modes of the local model and those of the observed SSH anomalies. The latter account for over half of the variance of the interannual signal over the region.     

Immediate profile and planform evolution of a beach nourishment project with hurricane influences

In this study, planform adjustment began during a period of calm weather immediately after nourishment and then the passage of one strong storm caused a substantial portion of the total profile equilibration. Weekly beach profiles, shoreline surveys, and nearshore wave measurements were conducted before, during, and immediately after construction of the 1100-m long Upham Beach nourishment project on the low-energy, west coast of Florida. This project was constructed in three segments: the wide north segment, the central segment, and the narrow south segment. With the exception of the relatively distant passage of Hurricane Charley, calm weather prevailed for 45 days following completion of the south and central segments. Construction of the wide north segment was completed on August 27, 2004. Substantial planform diffusion occurred prior to construction completion via formation of a 300-m long spit extending from the wide north segment. The shoreline orientation was changed abruptly due to this diffusion spit formation, as opposed to the gradual adjustment predicted by most long-term models. Planform adjustment was initiated prior to profile equilibration, and it did not require high-energy conditions. A simple vector sum model for determining the orientation of a potential diffusion spit was developed. This study recommends designing end transitions at the predicted diffusion spit orientation to avoid post-nourishment spit formation during future projects.     

Interstitial water chemistry of the inner continental shelf sediments off the gironde estuary

The interstitial water composition ( , alkalinity, Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺, Sr²⁺, Na⁺, K⁺) and the cation exchange capacity (CEC) were determined for the muddy sediments of the continental shelf off the Gironde Estuary (France), in the area where the sediment represents the deposit of the muddy suspension of the river. In comparison with seawater concentrations, the pore waters below 10 cm depth, show depletions of and Ca²⁺ and below a 30 cm depth show depletions of Mg²⁺. Inversely, the upper 10 cm an enrichment of Ca²⁺ concentration, and an increase of K⁺ concentration to a 40 cm depth. High values of are observed at the top 4 cm. Alkalinity enrichment is observed along the length of the core. Applying the alkalinity models for the sediment below a 10 cm depth demonstrates generally that calculated alkalinities are higher than the measured ones. Ca²⁺ dissolution occurs at the first 10 cm and authigenic carbonate precipitation starts beneath that level. Mg²⁺ depletion is accompanied by bicarbonate loss. This proves that Mg²⁺ depletion is due to a Mg-silicate reaction. The result of the CEC does not confirm the Mg²⁺ uptake by clay minerals in exchangeable site, under reducing conditions. Diffusion and bioturbation play an important role in the pore water concentration at the top of the core.     

南海南部大陆架的残留沉积

研究了南海南部大陆架的残留沉积物的粒度、石英砂表面结构特征、生物分布等，并指出残留沉积普遍遭受改造。按其早期的形成环境差异和改造作用不同，划分出加里曼丹－巴拉望残留沉积区和亚南巴斯－纳土纳残留沉积区。     

连云港近岸海域物理自净能力研究及水质预测——Ⅲ.西大堤建成后对物质输运的影响

在连云港近岸海域计算潮流场基础上建立拉格朗日余流模型,并对连云港市两大堤建成前后的拉格朗日余流变化进行了分析,且选择有代表性的排污口进行了数值跟踪。     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.