Beach morphodynamic characteristics and classifications on the straight coastal sectors in the west Guangdong

Journal of Geographical Sciences - Currently beach morphodynamic classification is the most important foundation to conduct associated coastal geomorphological studies. This paper carried out beach...     

Stratigraphical evidence of Late Holocene barrier breaching and extreme storms in lagoonal sediments of Ria Formosa, Algarve, Portugal

Stratigraphical, sedimentological and paleoecological studies undertaken in lagoonal sediments of the Ria Formosa barrier lagoon indicate that a number of present-day aligned beaches outcropping within the marsh and detached from mainland (marsh detached beaches, MDB) represent the remnants of former ephemeral flood deltas, which established following barrier breaching induced by extreme storms from circa 1270 BC onwards. Dating of these beaches suggests that they resulted from multiple events of flooding separated both in time and space. Repeated emplacement of tidal deltas following overwash of the same location of the barrier is represented in the stratigraphical record by buried and partly overlapping marsh beaches. It is suggested that further refinement of the data presented in this paper and the extension of the stratigraphic survey to the entire lagoonal space will substantiate the usefulness of the stratigraphic record as a proxy to hindcast a time series of extreme storminess extending far beyond the instrumental and historical records.     

Is the Determination of Meiobenthic Diversity Affected by the Sampling Method in Sandy Beaches?

Abstract. Meiobenthic samples were collected by two different methods from the microtidal coralline sand beach at Gosier, Guadeloupe, West Indies: (I) vertical cores and (2) the K araman /C happuis (KC) technique of digging a hole and filtering the seepage water from the bottom. Nematode species diversity was unaffected by the sampling method, but nematode species composition differed. There was no evidence from statistical analysis to suggest differences in diversity or composition of higher taxa between sampling methods, although gastrotrichs appeared to be underrepresented by the KC technique.     

Effects of morphodynamic state on macrofauna community of exposed sandy beaches on Galician coast (NW Spain)

It is known that the fauna of the exposed sandy beaches are primarily controlled by physical variables; but how these variables operate along and across the beach still remains fairly under discussion. In our study, we sampled a range of exposed sandy beaches along the Northwest coast of Spain to determine the relationship between the principal physical variables of the beaches (including beach morphodynamic state), and the macrofaunal community. The fauna of these beaches comprise truly marine species along the intertidal zone as well as semi-terrestrial species in the upper and supratidal environments. These two groups respond in a different manner to the physical environment. The first group is directly controlled by the morphodynamic state of the beach, and variations in the physical environment; the second group is not clearly affected by these physical conditions. In this case, other variables such as food availability and the human uses of the upper limits of the beach seem to be more relevant in explaining the patterns observed in the macrofaunal community.     

A new model for predicting three-dimensional beach changes by expanding Hsu and Evans' equation

The empirical bay shape model proposed by Hsu and Evans in 1989 for predicting the static planform of a pocket beach is expanded to enable the calculation of three-dimensional beach changes on a pocket beach with a seawall. The original formulation was developed on the basis of a second-order regression analysis. Unlike the one-line model of shoreline changes, the model of Hsu and Evans does not require repeated calculations of the wave field and shoreline position, because it was derived on the assumption of null sediment movement within a pocket beach in static equilibrium, hence without the need of applying the continuity condition of total sand volume in the calculation. The expanded model proposed by the present authors satisfies the total sand budget on a pocket beach, by taking into account the concept of depth change due to longshore sand transport. Model tests were carried out and the new model was further applied to the beach changes at Kemigawa on the northeast of Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, as well as at Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. On both locations, seawall has been installed as countermeasures against beach erosion, where wave sheltering effect of the main breakwater and beach changes in front of the seawall has also been observed. With this expansion, the present model can be applied to predict the three-dimensional beach changes on a coast with seawall on a pocket beach.     

A universal nutrient application strategy for the bioremediation of oil-polluted beaches

Biostimulation by nutrient application is a viable technology for restoring oil-contaminated beaches. Maximizing the nutrient residence time is key for achieving a rapid cost-effective cleanup. We considered the nutrient injection strategy through a perforated pipe at the high tide line and we simulated numerically beach hydraulics, which allowed us to estimate the optimal injection flow rate of nutrient solution. Our results indicate that the optimal application is one that starts following the falling high tide and lasts for half tidal cycle. The saturated wet-front of the nutrient solution on the beach surface would move seaward with the same speed of the falling tide keeping a constant distance with the tide line. The numerical results were generalized to beaches of wide ranges of hydraulic and tidal properties using a novel dimensionless formulation for water flow and solute transport in porous media. Nomographs were presented to provide the flow rate based on four parameters: The beach slope and hydraulic conductivity, and tidal amplitude and period.     

DOWNVALLEY GRADIENTS IN FLOW PATTERNS,SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND CHANNEL MORPHOLOGY IN A SMALL MACROTIDAL ESTUARY: DIPPER HARBOUR CREEK,NEW BRUNSWICK,CANADA

Dipper Harbour Creek's lower reaches run through a narrow salt marsh on the Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick, Canada. This 2 km long section of the creek constitutes an extreme example of a tide-dominated estuary exhibiting strong downvalley morphology and sedimentology gradients. Dipper Harbour Creek drains a basin of roughly 8.8 km², but except during the spring snowmelt freshet, tidal flow so overshadows freshwater flow within the salt marsh reach that the system essentially functions as a tidal creek. To identify and explain the main geomorphic processes controlling the creek system, records were collected in summer 1993 of tidal stage and velocity fluctuations, sand dune migration rates, bed material composition, channel cross-sectional geometry and channel sinuosity. Bed materials become progressively finer upvalley, with deposits of medium to coarse sands concentrated in the highly sinuous central reach of the creek during the summer. Current velocities within the creek are strongly flood-dominant, featuring a consistent low-stage peak in flood velocity, a secondary high-stage flood surge, and a weaker ebb peak occurring around bankfull stage. Under summer low freshwater discharge conditions, the predominant direction of bed sand transport is upvalley. The spring freshet, however, causes a major downvalley shift of sand deposits, suggesting a seasonal cycling of medium to coarse sands within Dipper Harbour Creek.     

Decadal and seasonal development of embryo dunes on an accreting macrotidal beach: North Lincolnshire,UK

Embryo dunes are often ephemeral, but can develop to become established coastal foredunes. In 2001 a patch of embryo dunes 13.11 m² appeared on a beach in north Lincolnshire, UK and had expanded to over 3600 m² by 2011. The rate of expansion is linked to storm occurrence, where expansion is slowed during years with a higher incidence of storm surges. From July 2009–October 2010 seasonal changes in dune field topography were determined using terrestrial laser scanning (TLS) data. Vegetation is important in the development of embryo dunes, but can cause errors in TLS data. Tests evaluating the impact of vegetation on the TLS data suggest the minimum elevation value from the TLS point cloud within a 0.05 m grid cell gives a good approximation of the ground surface. Digital elevation models (DEMs) of the dunes constructed using filtered data showed the embryo dunes underwent a classic seasonal cycle of erosion during the winter and accretion during the summer. For example from October 2009 to April 2010 over 375 m³ of sediment was eroded from the dunes whereas during spring and summer 2010 the dune field gained over 600 m³ of sand. The overall magnitude of change in dune height and volume from season to season exceeded the errors associated with the construction of the DEM from the TLS data and the vegetation filtering process, which suggests TLS can be useful for documenting topographic change in vegetated dunes. After 10 years, the patch of embryo dunes is still expanding but has not yet merged with more established foredunes to landward. Aeolian process measurements indicate that, at present, the embryo dunes do not prevent sand from reaching the foredunes, however the rate of foredune progradation has slowed concurrently with the expansion of the embryo dune field. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Geometry and grain-size sorting of ripples on low-energy sandy beaches: field observations and model predictions

ABSTRACT There are very few field measurements of nearshore bedforms and grain‐size distribution on low‐energy microtidal beaches that experience low‐amplitude, long‐period waves. Field observations are needed to determine grain‐size distribution over nearshore bedforms, which may be important for understanding the mechanisms responsible for ripple development and migration. Additional nearshore field observations of ripple geometry are needed to test predictive models of ripple geometry. Ripple height, length and sediment composition were measured in the nearshore of several low‐energy beaches with concurrent measurements of incident waves. The distribution of sediment sizes over individual ripples was investigated, and the performance of several models of ripple geometry prediction was tested both spatially and temporally. Sediment samples were collected from the crest and trough of 164 ripples. The sand‐sized sediment was separated from the small amount (generally <3%) of coarser material (>2 mm) that was present. Within the sand‐sized fraction, the ripple crests were found to be significantly coarser, better sorted and more positively skewed than the troughs. Overall, the troughs were finer than the crests but contained a greater proportion of the small fraction of sediment larger than 2 mm. The field model of Nielsen (1981 ) and the model of Wiberg & Harris (1994 ) were found to be the most accurate models for predicting the wavelength of parallel ripples in the nearshore of the low‐energy microtidal environments surveyed. The Wiberg & Harris (1994 ) model was also the most accurate model for predicting ripple height. Temporal changes in ripple wavelength appear to be dependent on the morphological history of the bed.     

岬湾海滩沉积动力地貌研究

岬湾海滩是砂质海岸稳定性及其演变的重要内容。介绍了岬间海湾平面形态平衡模型、海滩平衡剖面模式、海滩剖面主要类型的判别以及海岸泥沙运动,其中着重评述了现今岬间海湾平面形态平衡模型和海滩平衡剖面模式。通过它们的优缺点分析,认为人工神经网络模型是未来新型平面形态模型改进的方向;海滩平衡剖面模式分段使用,亦或2种或多种模式配合使用,更加符合实际情况。在以往研究中潮汐对海滩的影响往往被忽略,所以应加强对潮控海滩的研究;在泥沙输移方面至今还未有成熟系统的公式,现有的公式假定成分多,还有待进一步研究。提出了多学科综合集成是今后岬湾海滩研究的关键的思路。