浙江海岛沙滩质量评价体系及其应用研究

在参考国内外主要沙滩质量评价体系的基础上,结合浙江省海岛沙滩的具体状况,构建了适用于浙江省海岛沙滩的质量评价体系,包括3大类7个亚类共29个因子。运用该体系对浙江海岛63个沙滩进行了评价,结果显示浙江海岛沙滩质量总体处于中等水平,其中五星级沙滩有7个,四星级沙滩有19个,三星级沙滩有29个,二星级沙滩有8个,表明该评价体系具有较好的适用性。     

Subantarctic macrotidal flats, cheniers and beaches in San Sebastian Bay, Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina

San Sebastian Bay is a large, semicircular coastal embayment situated on the Atlantic coast of Tierra del Fuego, Argentina. It is a high-energy, subantarctic environment with a tidal range of 10.4 m, influenced by large waves of Atlantic and local origin and swept by constant, strong westerly winds. A 17 km long gravel spit protects the Northern part of the Bay giving rise to a gradient in sedimentary processes. From south to north, are seven distinct sedimentary environments. Coastal sedimentation started at least 5200 years before present (BP) and a rapid progradation related to a relative sea-level drop has infilled about 6 kilometres of the Bay with a sedimentary sequence 10–11 m thick. 14-C dating of unabraded shells in the Chenier ridges of the relict part of the complex allows for a precise reconstruction of the stages of the progradation, that has slowed from 2.35 m/year at 5000 years BP to 0.6 m/year at present. The possible causes of the sea-level drop are discussed.     

Spatial and seasonal pebble beach profile characteristics

Beach profiles along eight sections of two fringing pebble beaches located in the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, Wales were regularly surveyed for over one year. The data were used to examine spatial and seasonal beach profile variations by utilizing them in several graphical procedures. Results showed seasonal variations in terms of beach profile configuration, beach face slope and the rate of profile change, although these variations were not necessarily concurrent. This highlights the special case of fringing pebble beaches on which accretional profiles are probably compensated for by erosional profiles alongshore at any one time. This makes it difficult to generalize spatially the profile response of an entire beach system. For this reason, the rate of profile change may more realistically reflect periodic variations in wave regime, which in European latitudes can be approximated with the summer and winter seasons.     

Internal structure of a barrier beach as revealed by ground penetrating radar (GPR): Chesil beach, UK

Chesil Beach (Dorset) is one of the most famous coastal landforms on the British coast. The gravel beach is over 18 km long and is separated for much of its length from land by a tidal lagoon known as The Fleet. The beach links the Isle of Portland in the east to the mainland in the west. Despite its iconic status there is little available information on its internal geometry and evolutionary history. Here we present a three-fold model for the evolution of Chesil Beach based on a series of nine ground penetrating radar (GPR) traverses located at three sites along its length at Abbotsbury, Langton Herring and at Ferry Bridge. The GPR traverses reveal a remarkably consistent picture of the internal structure of this barrier beach. The first phase of evolution involves the landward transgression of a small sand and gravel beach which closed upon the coast leading to deposition of freshwater peat between 5 and 7 k yr BP. The second evolutionary phase involves the ‘bulking-out’ of the beach during continued sea level rise, but in the presence of abundant gravel supplied by down-drift erosion of periglacial slope deposits. This episode of growth was associated with a series of washover fans which accumulated on the landward flank of the barrier increasing its breadth and height but without significant landward transgression of the barrier as a whole. The final phase in the evolution of Chesil Beach involves the seaward progradation of the beach crest and upper beach face associated with continued sediment abundance, but during a still-stand or slight fall in relative sea level. This phase may provide further evidence of a slight fall in relative sea level noted elsewhere along the South Coast of Britain and dated to between 1.2 and 2.4 k yr BP. Subsequently the barrier appears to have become largely inactive, except for the reworking of sediment on the beach face during storm events. The case study not only refines the evolutionary picture of Chesil Beach, but illustrates the importance of the subtle interplay between relative sea level and sediment supply in the evolution of a barrier system. In addition, it also illustrates the potential of GPR in resolving the evolutionary history of gravel-rich coastal landforms such as Chesil Beach.     

Application of empirical models to bay-shaped beaches in Portugal

Three models were applied to analyse the planform of bay-shaped Portuguese beaches. They are based on empirical mathematical functions: the logarithmic spiral bay equation, the hyperbolic-tangent bay equation, and the parabolic bay equation. These models were applied to analyse the fitting to the beach planform of 42 beaches on the Portuguese Atlantic coast which was calculated through the validation against the waterline extracted from rectified aerial photographs. The logarithmic spiral model fits well the curved zone of the beaches, in particular small beaches with two headlands. Despite the good fitting of the hyperbolic-tangent model for one headland beach, its process of approximation to the solution was less intuitive than the processes of the other two models, therefore its application was more exhaustive. A comparative analysis between the logarithmic spiral model and the hyperbolic-tangent model revealed the best fit of the first. The application of the parabolic model allowed to conclude that despite the majority of the beaches analysed being in dynamic equilibrium condition due to the high energy wave regime of the Portuguese Atlantic coast, their planform was very close to the planform in static equilibrium condition due to the high dynamics of the coastal environment.     

Hydrodynamics of a headland-bay beach—Nearshore current circulation

This paper is devoted to the analysis of the hydrodynamic equilibrium of a headland or semi-elliptic shaped beach. It is shown that the state of equilibrium depends not only on the in- and outgoing sediment but also on the accommodation of the sediment within the embayment. The shape and relative depth of shoals, or settling zones, also directly affect the wave and current patterns inside the bay, within which the resultant breaker line almost stops wave-induced currents at some locations, whereas the magnitude of current increases at other locations. Several numerical tests are analytically conducted in a semi-elliptic beach with two symmetrical shoals of varying relative depth where circulatory current systems are detected and analyzed. Numerical modelling for wave climate and wave-induced current estimation is also presented in order to corroborate results and provide a tool for complicated and/or physical domains. The results lead to a redefinition of the concept of equilibrium for headland-bay beaches taking into account not only the net sediment transport but also the role of the formation and disappearance of settling zones, as well as sediment interchanges between the beach and shoals.     

On the design of beach nourishment projects using static equilibrium concepts: Application to the Spanish coast

The concept of equilibrium plan form and equilibrium profile has been widely used as an engineering tool in order to design beach nourishment projects. The scope of this paper is to further explore this “equilibrium beach” concept in crenulated bays, as a long-term tool for beach nourishment projects. The proposed methodology is based on González and Medina (2001) and combines the static equilibrium plan and profile for long-term analysis. This methodology includes a modified equilibrium plan form, which is able to define the orientation of the local wave front in the diffracting point, and also to locate the downcoast starting point of the static equilibrium beach from which the parabolic plan form of Hsu and Evans (1989) is valid. This methodology permits the application of any equilibrium profile formulation. An example of the application of this methodology and long-term formulations to the design of the Spanish nourishment project of Poniente Beach (Gijón) is presented. Ten years after its construction, the beach has still got a static equilibrium and remains pretty close to the predicted equilibrium beach in plan and profile.     

华南海滩剖面沉积物粒度特征影响因子分析

通过对2003年7月采集的华南沿海12条海滩剖面（3种海滩类型）的76个沉积物样品粒度分析,讨论了物质来源、地形地貌、风暴、水动力条件以及后滨向陆的极限高度等对海滩沉积物的性质与分布的影响．研究得出,后滨向陆的极限位置处于相对稳定的状态;后滨的极限高度随着滩面粒径的增大而增加．     

雷州半岛南部海滩沉积物单一样和平行样粒度分布信息的对比

前人已开展了大量的关于沉积物粒度测试、数据分析与信息提取工作,但针对所采集的沉积物样品是否具有代表性的研究仍较为罕见。基于众数、中值粒径、粒级组分含量、沉积物类型和粒度参数等指标,本文对比分析了雷州半岛南部海滩30组沉积物平行样的粒度分布参数的定量和定性结果的异同、相关性和一致性。研究结果表明：（1）平行样的众数、中值粒径和粒级组分含量均表现出一定程度的差异性;（2）平行样的偏态和峰态特征值差异较为明显,P1平均值分别为–2.90～–1.53和11.23～21.59,P2为–2.55～–1.52和11.23～21.59,P3为–2.81～–1.86和13.41～27.69;（3）粒度参数的数值结果有约2/3的组合呈不相关关系（R² ≤ 0.29）;（4）分选系数、偏态和峰态分别有1/3、1/2和4/15的定性结果存在差异。沉积物粒度分布信息的空间异质性和样品采集的随机性是上述差异的主要原因。为了尽可能消除样品采集的随机性和刻画粒度分布信息的时空异质性,建议未来样品采集时同时采集平行样。本文提供了一个以海滩沉积物为研究对象的平行样粒度参数结果对比的典型案例,结果有助于提升对沉积物样品有效采集策略方面的认识。