长江口枯季悬沙粒度与浓度之间的关系

2003和2004年枯季在长江口采集水样并作水文观测，对所获水样进行过滤和粒度分析，以计算悬沙浓度和悬沙粒度分布。结果表明，2003年11月小潮期间，悬沙中值粒径与悬沙浓度存在着显著的指数关系，在大潮期间没有显著关系；在2004年2月小湖期间，两者之间没有显著关系，但在大潮期间存在着显著的指数关系。枯季水体悬沙以粉砂组份为主，并且随着向口外的推移，细颗粒组份逐渐增加，但在拦门沙最大浑浊带附近，由于絮凝作用，沉积物粒度变幅较大，可产生粒径粗化的现象。小潮期间，砂含量较低，但与悬沙浓度之间有显著相关关系；大潮期间，悬沙粒径粗化，但砂含量与悬沙浓度之间的关系不显著。上述分布趋势与沉积物来源、当地的水动力条件和絮凝作用等因素有密切关系。     

Vertical Sound Velocity Transition in the Coral Reef Core and Its Significance of Indicating Facies

On the basis of the sound velocity measurements of the coral reef core from Nanyong No.1 well of Yongshu Reef in the Nansha Islands,the paper studies the relations between the vertical sound velocity transition features in the coral reef core and the corresponding stratigraphic depositional facies change as well as stratigraphic gap of erosion,analyses the cause of the sound velocity transition,expounds the concrete process of the sea level change resulting in the stratigraphic gap of erosion and facies change in the coral reef and explains the relations between the vertical sound velocity transition in the coral reef core and the corresponding stratigraphic paleoclimate and the sea level change.This study is of important practical value and theoretical significance to the island and reef engineering construction and the acoustic logging for oil exploration in the reef limestone area as well as the paleoceanographic study of the marginal sea in the westerm Pacific Ocean.     

Reduction of sand demand for shore protection

Beach nourishment is an environmentally preferred method of shore protection, but the annual sand requirement may lead to substantial maintenance costs. The shoreline processes, involving the surf zone, beach and dune, are reviewed with the aim of reducing the annual sand requirement of eroding shorelines. It is shown that surf zones with equilibrium profiles, on which the wave energy conversion is evenly distributed across the surf zone, from experience for given conditions indicate least loss of sand. On steep, eroding shorelines it may be difficult to establish an equilibrium profile. For such cases, the use of perched surf zones is recommended, which are supported at the seaward limit by an underwater sill. For reduction of littoral transport, the use of pervious pile groynes is recommended. These are arguably more efficient than impervious groynes. The sand loss from a usually dry beach by raised water levels is shown to be a function of the beach slope and is least when the storm waves at raised water levels do not cut an erosion escarpment. The loss of sand from a dune by infrequent severe storm tides can be prevented with the aid of a built-in membrane. These sand losses are usually large and constitute an uneconomic use of this sand resource. The proposed concepts and measures are linked to existing knowledge, augmented by data from the large wave flume (LWF) in Germany and field data from the North and Baltic Sea coasts.     

Estimation of Water Particle Velocities by Empirical Transfer Function

-In previous and this studies it appears that the linear and nonlinear wave theory can notaccurately and easily predict the water particle velocities.Therefore,different from the theoretical consider-ations,in this study we have attempted to determine the transfer function empirically.Laboratory experi-ments were performed under various wave conditions.The empirical formulas of the transfer function ofthe wave height,angular frequency and water particle velocity were obtained on the basis of these test databy dimensional analysis and regression analysis.In intermediate and deep water depth conditions,thetransfer function was only a function of a nondimensional parameter which is composed of the angular fre-quency,the depth of the velocity gauge under the still water level,water depth and the acceleration of grav-ity.Finally,the empirical formulas were compared with experimental data and observational data formpresent and Cavaleri's(1978)studies.The empirical formulas were found to be in sufficient correl     

Intercomparison of coastal area morphodynamic models

Five different coastal area morphodynamic models have been set up to run on the same offshore breakwater layout and an intercomparison carried out on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic output produced by each scheme. In addition, the predicted morphodynamics was checked against available laboratory and field data.It is concluded that the models are capable of producing realistic estimates for the dominant morphodynamic features associated with offshore breakwaters. Coupling of the wave, current and sediment transport components of each scheme is shown to yield bathymetry which attains a state of equilibrium, unlike models which are based on the initial transport field only.     

厦门港岩相潮间带多毛类的生态

本文根据１９８７年２、５、８、１１月调查资料，研究了厦门港岩相潮间带多毛类的种类组成、种类与数量的垂直分布、季节变化，并与大亚湾多毛类生态进行比较。结果表明，调查区域有多毛类４７种。平均栖息密度６０个／ｍ＾２，平均生物量１．７８ｇ／ｍ＾２，潮汐作用影响多毛类的种数、密度、生物量的垂直分布。多毛类数量的季节变化不甚明显，但冬季的栖息密度和春季的生物量较高。     

近58a来影响和登陆浙江的热带气旋统计特征分析

本文利用1949-2006年热带气旋资料,对58a来影响和登陆浙江热带气旋的登陆位置、登陆时间的年际、月际和日变化、登陆后的移速及路径变化与降水中心分布的关系、登陆后维持和衰减情况等进行了统计分析.统计结果表明：影响和登陆浙江的热带气旋有较明显的年际、月际和日变化特征;登陆浙江的热带气旋陆上维持时间与登陆时的强度正相关,登陆后12h内热带气旋衰减较快;登陆后移向偏北分量大的或移速加快的热带气旋,主要降水区出现在路径右侧的可能性大.     

厦门港岩石岸潮间带软体动物的生态

本文根据１９８２年２月至１９８３年２月在厦门港岩石岩潮间带采集的软体动物，论述了其种类组成，数量分布，生活型及影响软件动物分布的主要环境因子，厦门港岩石岸潮间带共发现软动物５４种。其中，多板类６种，腹足类３３种，双壳类１５种，优势种有僧帽牡蛎，黑荞麦蛤，复瓦小蛇螺，粗糙滨螺等。与６０年代初调查结果比较得出，厦门港岩石岸潮间带的软体动物群落是相对稳定的，潮汐是决定河口结果比较得出，厦门港岩石岩潮间带     

Estimating the geostrophic velocity obtained by HF radar observations in the upstream area of the Kuroshio

A method to extract geostrophic current in the daily mean HF radar data in the Kuroshio upstream region is established by comparison with geostrophic velocity determined from the along-track altimetry data. The estimated Ekman current in the HF velocity is 1.2% (1.5%) and 48° (38°)-clockwise rotated with respect to the daily mean wind in (outside) the Kuroshio. Furthermore, additional temporal smoothing is found necessary to remove residual ageostrophic currents such as the inertial oscillation. After removal of the ageostrophic components, the HF geostrophic velocity agrees well with that from the altimetry data with rms difference 0.14 (0.12) m/s in (outside) the Kuroshio.