Textural characteristics and morphosedimentary environment of foreshore zone along Ganpatipule,Maharashtra, India

The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area.     

开敞式滩海油田保滩促淤工程研究

分析了飞雁滩油田海区的海洋环境条件,试验研究了不同结构型式潜堤的稳定性和保滩促淤效果,对潜堤的保滩促淤效果和淤积速率进行了预测,对工程布置、潜堤结构方案、基础冲刷防护措施和潜堤顶高程提出了建议．     

中国丹霞地貌研究进展

从本世纪３０年代阵国达提出“丹霞地形”的概念以来,中国学者经历了初创、成型和发展三个阶段的研究,作为地貌学一个新领域的丹霞地貌研究已日趋成熟。“红色陆相碎屑岩”作为丹霞地貌的物质基础和“陡崖坡”作为形成２限定为大部分学者所接受。“顶平、身陡、麓缓”的坡面组合,是丹霞地貌 的基本形成特征。目前所发现的红层均早于中生代;大部分丹霞地貌发育在红色砾岩、砂砾岩、砂岩的地层组合上,而相对软弱的粉沙质和泥质岩     

青岛中港东区岸滩改造方案与功能区别

介绍了青岛中港东区改造工程的背景和自然概况,阐明了东区改造工程建设规模、功能与港区现状、近期营运需求以及远期发展目标的相互关系,同时论述了岸滩改造方案的设计特点以及码头岸线、周边陆域功能区划。     

Investigation on the Deposition in an Excavated Trough at the East Shore of Jiaozhou Bay, China

- Based on field investigations, this paper analyzes three types of harbour basinns and navigation channel excavated on seabed in Jiaozhou Bay, get a general rule of deposition for excavated trough, it found that pollution is one of crucial factors resulting in the deposition of the excavated trough in the east shore of Jiaozhou Bay. With these results, it predicted the annual deposition thickness for the excavated trough and disclosed the fact that it can't be deposited deadly during one storm. At the same time, with two-dimensional numerical model, it studied the effects of the excavated trough and the reclamation near shore on tidal cureent and said that the excavated trough can decrease the current velocity passing through the trough about 10- 15%, but only limited inside and near the trough and there are no effect on other regions; reclamation can cut off the pollution sources and no obvious effect on the currents of the Jiaozhou Bay. Connecting the deep trough and Cangkou tidal channel with a new     

福建岬湾岸型沙质海滩对台风的响应特征

对福建沿岸岬湾岸型沙质海滩的蚀淤变化分析,结果表明:在0418号台风"艾利"袭击下,台风移动路径左侧的两个海滩表现为侵蚀,滩肩蚀低,滨线向陆移动,其中岩下村海滩比卒子村海滩的侵蚀严重,岩下村海滩侵蚀集中在后滨和高潮带,卒子村海滩侵蚀集中在中、低潮带;台风移动路径右侧的衙口村海滩相对比较稳定,仅中潮带出现弱淤积,后滨向陆侧人工堆积沙丘遭受侵蚀.     

离岸流灾害水动力学过程的数值模拟研究

离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。     

An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.     

苏北潮滩的近期变化分析

利用1999～2000年条子泥岸滩剖面实测数据和1982～1983年东沙沙滩剖面资料,分析了条子泥岸滩和东沙沙滩剖面的冲淤变化。结果表明,条子泥陆侧岸滩剖面的季节性变化特点是夏季侵蚀,冬季淤积;东沙沙脊年际变化特点为两侧边缘以侵蚀为主,而沙脊中央则以淤积为主。造成条子泥岸滩剖面季节性差异的主要原因是其周围海域中高浓度悬沙的秋、冬季落淤大于夏季所致。东沙沙脊东西两侧强烈的潮流和波浪作用使沙脊的两侧遭受较为明显的侵蚀。     

大鹏湾岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征及原因分析——以官湖海滩为例

随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。