Wave-induced motions of an air cushion structure in shallow water

Model tests were conducted on two 1:100 scaled models of a typical concrete gravity substructure at the University of Western Australia. The two models had dimensions 0.5 m length×0.5 m width with the first model being a sealed closed bottom box of height 0.1 m and the second model being an open bottom box with skirt length of 0.1 m. The mass of the air cushion model was changed to accommodate various water plug heights within the skirt chamber. Each model was floated at a constant draft of 0.1 m and tested in water depths ranging between 0.03 m (shallow) and 0.8 m (deep). The environment comprised regular waves with periods ranging between 0.6 and 3.5 s and amplitude of 0.08–0.02 m. To quantify the dynamic response the heave and pitch motions of each model were measured.A simplified theoretical solution based on long wavelength, linear wave assumptions was developed and applied to the geometries in consideration. Improvements to the theory are sought using the forcing function from a boundary element code, as well as utilizing added mass coefficients from free decay experiments. Results show that experimental trends compare reasonably well with analytical solution in particular for periods longer than the natural period. The results show that introducing air cushion support into a CGS increases the pitch response, while having little effect of the heave motion.     

Study on the Log-Linear Velocity Profile of Near-Bed Tidal Current in Estuarine and Coastal Waters

Many observed data show that the near-bed tidal velocity profile deviates from the usual logarithmic law. The amount of deviation may not be large, but it results in large errors when the logarithmic velocity profile is used to calculate the bed roughness height and friction velocity （or shear stress）. Based on their investigation, Kuo et al. （1996） indicate that the deviation amplitude may exceed 100%. On the basis of fluid dynamic principle, the profile of the near-bed tidal velocity in estuarine and coastal waters is established by introducing Prandtl＇ s mixing length theory and Von Kannan selfsimilarity theory. By the fitting and calculation of the near-bed velocity profde data observed in the west Solent, England, the results are compared with those of the usual logarithmic model, and it is shown that the present near-bed tidal velocity profile model has such advantages as higher fitting precision, and better inner consistency between the roughness height and friction velocity. The calculated roughness height and friction velocity are closer to reality. The conclusions are validated that the logarithmic model underestimates the roughness height and friction velocity during tidal acceleration and overestimates them during tidal deceleration.     

利用波能平衡方程研究波浪折射——绕射的数学模型及数值模拟

波能平衡方程是研究风浪要素及波能传播问题的很有效的方法，计算较为简单，在海洋学及海岸动力学中得到广泛的应用。本文采用考虑波能侧向传递机制和耗损制约的波能平衡方程组作为研究波浪折射——绕射变形的控制方程。对数学模型用差分法进行了数值模拟，并用两个例题进行了验证     

海面二氧化碳通量的动力学分析

探讨海气间二氧化碳的气体交换。指出海面气体交换的物理过程与大气的强迫作用有关。动力学分析表明：交换速度主要依赖于溶解度、摩擦速度和阻碍系数；海面通量则决定于海与气的浓度差和交换速度，而交换速度随风速增加而增大，随温度增大而减小，其模拟值与风洞实验值基本一致。根据１９９３年１０月、１９９４年４月和１０月在东海三个航次的测定和计算表明，东海海面的二氧化碳通量指向下，其平均值为－４５．５μｇ·ｍ－２ｈ－１     

城市化进程对近地层大气风温结构的影响

利用北京325 m气象塔不同阶段(第一阶段:1991—1995年;第二阶段:2004—2008年)风温梯度观测,北京地区气候站长期观测(1971—2008年,20站)和城市社会经济发展指标(1978—2008年),从城市化进程不同阶段对比的角度,分析研究北京近地层大气风温结构变化特征。结果表明,北京城市化进程已经导致该地区近地层大气特征发生明显变化。主要表现为:地面和近地层温度增加,热岛强度增强;地面风速和近地层低层风速明显减小;近地层低层(63 m以下)风向变得更为紊乱;近地层温度垂直递减率增加;近地层大气风温结构特征的变化表明:2004—2008年325 m气象塔,在63 m以下基本反映的是城市冠层流场特征,即气象塔周边地区城市冠层厚度约为63 m。     

Extreme waves for Kuwaiti territorial waters

The extreme significant wave heights and the corresponding wave periods were predicted for return periods of 12, 25, 50, 100 and 200 yr for 19 different locations in Kuwaiti territorial waters. Though the total coast length of Kuwait is only about 500 km including all islands and the total area of the Kuwaiti territorial water is about 7611 km², the extreme significant wave height vary from 1.86 to 4.02 m for 100 yr return period, among these 19 locations. In general Weibull distribution is found to fit the data well compared to the Gumbel distribution. The input wave data for the present work is obtained by hind casting waves using a WAM model. Wave data is hindcasted for a total period of 12 yr, starting from 1 January 1993 to 31 December 2004. From the joint probability of wave height and wave period, a simple polynomial relationship is obtained between the significant wave height and mean period for all the 19 locations. It is found that the wave period for wave heights of 100 yr return period cannot exceed 6.5 s. A large number of coastal projects are in progress and many new projects are planned for the near future in the Kuwaiti territorial waters. The results of the present study will be highly useful for optimal design of these projects.     

Observations of the Alaskan Stream near Samalga Pass and its connection to the Bering Sea: 2001–2004

Year-long moorings were deployed across the Alaskan Stream near Samalga Pass (169°W) on two occasions, first in 2001–2002 (5 moorings) and again in 2003–2004 (3 moorings). Currents were measured throughout the water column, and temperature and salinity were measured at selected depths. Satellite altimetry and satellite-tracked drifters revealed a well defined Alaskan Stream, with the largest near-surface average speeds (>60 cm s⁻¹) and highest eddy kinetic energy just upstream from the mooring sites. Excluding periods when large eddies disrupted the flow, transport in the Alaskan Stream ranged from 10 to 30×10⁶ m³ s⁻¹. The estimated mean transport in 2001–2002 was 19×10⁶ m³ s⁻¹, and in 2003–2004 was 21×10⁶ m³ s⁻¹. Large (diameter>200 km), anti-cyclonic eddies were not uncommon in the vicinity of Samalga Pass (14 times in 20 year period, 1992–2012). Although there were no such eddies observed during the period 2000–2003, one of the largest ever recorded eddies occurred in spring 2004. In addition, smaller eddies occurred on several occasions. Eddies disrupted the flow, shifting the Alaskan Stream farther off shore and were clearly evident in both the satellite imagery and the mooring data. Other energetic events, which were less evident in the satellite records, but clearly evident in the mooring measurements, also disrupted the flow. In addition to the moorings in the Alaskan Stream, pressure gauges were placed in Samalga Pass and a single mooring measuring currents was placed in the Aleutian North Slope Current (ANSC) in the Bering Sea. The alongshore, near-surface flow measured at the moorings deployed on the 1000-m isobaths in the Alaskan Stream and the ANSC were significantly correlated with the bottom pressure time series. In addition, at periods longer than 14 days, the bottom pressure measured at the mooring sites in Samalga Pass was significantly correlated with the sea surface height measured by the satellites. The eddy kinetic energies measured from the satellites and from moorings were also significantly correlated.     

TOPEX高度计数据反演北太平洋海浪周期

利用TOPEX高度计和NDBC浮标同步观测数据,对7种高度计海浪周期反演模型进行了系统的比较分析,从反演模式的精度、反演周期整体分布、周期-波高的联合分布等方面对反演模型做出了评价,并根据墨西哥湾和夏威夷海域反演结果对模型的区域适应性进行了验证,结合Hasselmann风浪充分成长关系分析了不同海浪成分下模型的反演效果。分析发现,Mackay等于2008年提出的算法(简称M08)相对于其他算法精度最高,且在不同海域和不同海浪成分下精度没有明显差异。利用M08算法反演了北太平洋海域的海浪平均周期分布,讨论其空间分布特征和季节变化特征如下:北太平洋海域的平均周期在墨西哥湾、西里伯斯海等沿岸地区较小,在西风带海域为较大,并存在明显的地形、纬度差异和季节性变化特征。     

永暑海区波浪要素变化特征分析

利用永暑礁测站1988-2009年共22a的波浪实测资料,对永暑海区的波浪要素的基本特征、变化规律、风与浪的相关规律进行分析研究,阐明了海区海浪的特点及其年变化规律。该区是热带季风气候区,海区的波浪主要受季风影响,季风时期的风向、风浪传播方向、涌浪传播方向基本一致。波高以轻浪和中浪为主,小波分析表明波高在6-9月具有3-6年的变化周期。提供了较详实的海浪资料及变化规律。     

Occurrence probability of a freak wave in a nonlinear wave field

The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory.