Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分成５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下被高、周期的统计分布．并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。     

Modelling the long-term distribution of significant wave height with the Beta and Gamma models

The paper suggests modelling the long-term distribution of significant wave height with the Gamma, Beta of the first and second kind models. The three models are interrelated, flexible and cover the three different tail types of Extreme Value Theory. They can be used simultaneously as a means of assessing the uncertainty effects that result from choosing equally plausible models with different tail types. This procedure is intended for those applications that require the long-term distribution of significant wave height as input rather than the prediction of extreme values. The models are fitted to some significant wave data as an illustration. Details about maximum likelihood estimation are given in A.     

Seasonality and duration in extreme value distributions of significant wave height

This paper presents a statistical model to characterize the long-term extreme value distribution of significant wave height, conditioning to the duration of the storm and accounting for seasonality. A time-dependent version of the peak over threshold (POT) approach is used to build the model, which is then applied to specific reanalysis time series and NOAA buoy records. The model considers the annual and semiannual cycles which are parameterized in terms of harmonic functions. The inclusion of seasonal variabilities substantially reduces the residuals of the fitted model. The information obtained in this study can be useful to design maritime works, because (a) the model improves the understanding of the variability of extreme wave climate along a year and (b) the model accounts for the duration of the storm, which is a key parameter in several formulations for rubble mound breakwater design.     

Return period and risk calculations for ocean wave energy applications

The statistical behavior of wave energy at a site strongly depends on the wave characteristics. Wave energy converters fail to produce energy when there are no sufficiently available wave heights. Hence, evaluation of return periods and risk values of the minimum wave height becomes important for wave energy studies. A time index representing the minimum wave height is proposed here for ocean wave applications. Persistence plays a significant role in the calculation of return period and risk. Although ignoring the serial independence makes calculations easy, it leads to overestimations of the real status. In this paper, return periods and risk values are compared with each other by taking into consideration independent and dependent situations. Application of the study is achieved for the stations located in the Pacific Ocean and Gulf of Mexico.     

On the choice of data transformation for modelling time series of significant wave height

Autoregressive models have been shown to adequately model the time series of significant wave height. However, since this series exhibits a seasonal component and has a non-gaussian nature, it is necessary to transform the series before a model can be fit to the data. Two different transformations that have been used in earlier work are shown not to be appropriate for all types of applications. A third transformation is proposed here, which combines the better features of the two earlier ones and which is appropriate for simulation work. This is demonstrated with an example of a series from Figueira da Foz, a location of the Portuguese Coast.     

基于浮标资料的中国东部海域最大波高特征分析

利用原国家海洋局2010—2015年的浮标资料,计算渤、黄、东海有效波高和最大波高的线性关系,并通过1992—2011年共20 a的数值模拟有效波高资料计算中国东部海域各月的2.5 m、4 m、6 m以上最大波高频率和最大波高月极值分布。结果发现:中国东部海域由北至南,最大波高与有效波高的比值逐渐增大;最大波高频率和最大波高月极值空间分布均由渤海、黄海至东海逐渐增大,最大波高频率的极值12月最大,4或5月最小,最大波高月极值9月最大,4月最小。其时空分布表明:受不同天气系统影响,夏秋季台风较多,容易出现极值较大的最大波高;秋冬季冷空气较强,虽然最大波高极值相对较小,但大浪持续时间长、频率大、影响范围广。     

海上风电升压站平台高程确定标准的合理性研究

为保证海上风电升压电站建设的经济合理与安全可靠,合理确定海上风电升压电站平台高程十分必要。文中从波浪与潮位的遭遇组合、最大波高取值与现行相关标准的比较、最大波峰高度计算的合理性等方面,全面分析了确定海上风电升压站平台高程各组成项取值标准的合理性,研究认为现行标准明显偏高。建议海上升压站平台底部高程按"100年一遇极端高水位+重现期50年波列累积频率1%的最大波峰高度+安全超高"确定。结合工程实例计算分析,按本文建议可使海上升压站平台高程明显降低,从而节省工程造价,还可减轻升压站工程对周边风机的遮蔽影响,以达到多发电量的效果。     

A 10-year wave energy resource assessment and trends of Indonesia based on satellite observations

Wave energy resource assessment and trends around Indonesian's ocean has been carried out by means of analyzing satellite observations. Wave energy flux or wave power can be approximated using parameterized sea states derived from satellite data. Unfortunately, only some surface parameters can be measured from remote sensing satellites, for example for ocean surface waves: significant wave height. Others, like peak wave period and energy period are not available, but can instead be estimated using empirical models. The results have been assessed by meteorological season. The assessment shows clearly where and when the wave power resource is promising around Indonesian's ocean. The most striking result was found from June to August, in which about 30–40 kW/m(the 90 th percentile: 40–60 kW/m, the 99th percentile: 50–70 kW/m) wave power energy on average has been found around south of the Java Island. The significant trends of wave energy at the 95% level have also been studied and it is found that the trends only occurred for the extreme cases, which is the 99th percentile(i.e.,highest 1%). Wave power energy could increase up to 150 W/m per year. The significant wave heights and wave power have been compared with the results obtained from global wave model hindcast carried out by wave model WAVEWATCH III. The comparisons indicated excellent agreements.     

Long-Term Validation of Wave Height Measurements from Altimeters

Since July 1991, six altimeter missions have been launched successfully, and they have provided almost continuous wave height measurements for more than 12 years. Long-term series of wave height measurements are of major interest for climatology and oceanic wave modeling. Before using such data, the measurements have to be validated, and the homogeneity of the data from various satellites has to be checked. Significant wave height measurements from ERS, TOPEX/Poseidon, GEOSAT Follow-on, Jason-1 and ENVISAT altimeters are validated using cross-altimeter and buoy comparisons. Emphasis is put on the two recent missions Jason-1 and ENVISAT. Corrections for biases and trends are proposed for the six altimeters, allowing the generation of consistent and homogeneous data. Tests of these corrections are performed over global ocean simple statistics.