海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

Wave Attenuation Performance and the Influencing Factors of A Lower Arc-Plate Breakwater

Comprehensive experimental and numerical studies have been undertaken to investigate wave energy dissipation performance and main influencing factors of a lower arc-plate breakwater. The numerical model, which considers nonlinear interactions between waves and the arc-plate breakwater, has been constructed by using the velocity wave- generating method, the volume of fluid (VOF) method and the finite volume method. The results show that the relative width, relative height and relative submergence of the breakwater are three main influencing factors and have significant influence on wave energy dissipation of the lower arc-plate open breakwater. The transmission coefficient is found to decrease with the increasing relative width, and the minimum transmission coefficient is 0.15 when the relative width is 0.45. The reflection coefficient is found to vary slightly with the relative width, and the maximum reflection coefficient is 0.53 when the relative width is 0.45. The transmission and reflection coefficients are shown to increase with the relative wave height for approximately 85% of the experimental tests when the relative width is 0.19 0.45. The transmission coefficients at relative submergences of 0.04, 0.02 and 0 are clearly shown to be greater than those at relative submergences of 0.02 and 0.04, while the reflection coefficient exhibits the opposite relationship. After the wave interacts with the lower arc-plate breakwater, the wave energy is mainly converted into transmission, reflection and dissipation energies. The wave attenuation performance is clearly weakened for waves with greater heights and longer periods.     

三次样条插值在浮性频率计算中的应用

在普遍利用海洋观测站标准层的温度、盐度数据估算稳定层化海水浮性频率的传统算法中引入自然三次样条插植方法，不仅可使计算结果的精度得以提高，而且还可方便地对观测深度范围内的任一水层进行插值，从而获得总体曲率最小的温度、盐度和浮性频率随深度的分布。本文以南海（13°30’N，118°30’E；9°30’N，lll°30’E）及北太平洋（40°00’N130°00’W）3个测站为例，说明了在浮性频率的传统算法中引入自然三次样条插值法的可行性。     

迎风有限元法在三维潮流数值模拟中的应用

为研究和开发迎风有限元法在河口海岸三维波数值模拟中的应用，并为建立三维物质扩散模型，最终为解决实际工程问题打下基础，以非线性浅水波方程为基础，采用一咱平面迎风有奶元与垂向工有限差分相结合地数值计算方法建立三维潮流数学模型，基地实际的物理过程，在计算中将三维流动分成外重力波和内重力波，耦联求解潮位和流速的空间分布。应用本模式计算了天津新港附近渤海海域的三维潮流运动，以较高的分辩率揭示了潮流空间结构特     

Gravity torques for surface waves

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.     

Forecasting ocean wave energy: The ECMWF wave model and time series methods

Recently, the technology has been developed to make wave farms commercially viable. Since electricity is perishable, utilities will be interested in forecasting ocean wave energy. The horizons involved in short-term management of power grids range from as little as a few hours to as long as several days. In selecting a method, the forecaster has a choice between physics-based models and statistical techniques. A further idea is to combine both types of models. This paper analyzes the forecasting properties of a well-known physics-based model, the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Wave Model, and two statistical techniques, time-varying parameter regressions and neural networks. Thirteen data sets at locations in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and the Gulf of Mexico are tested. The quantities to be predicted are the significant wave height, the wave period, and the wave energy flux. In the initial tests, the ECMWF model and the statistical models are compared directly. The statistical models do better at short horizons, producing more accurate forecasts in the 1-5 h range. The ECMWF model is superior at longer horizons. The convergence point, at which the two methods achieve comparable degrees of accuracy, is in the area of 6 h. By implication, the physics-based model captures the underlying signals at lower frequencies, while the statistical models capture relationships over shorter intervals. Further tests are run in which the forecasts from the ECMWF model are used as inputs in regressions and neural networks. The combined models yield more accurate forecasts than either one individually.     

Numerical modelling of deformation of multi-directional random waves over a varying topography

Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.     

Study on scattering wave force of horizontal and vertical plate type breakwaters

The interaction between wave and horizontal and vertical plates is investigated by the boundary element method,and the relations of wave exciting force with plate thickness,submergence and length are obtained.It is found that:1) The efficient wave exciting force exists while plate submergence is less than 0.5 m,and the plate is very thin with order O(0.005 m).2) The maximum heave wave exciting force exists,and it is the main factor for surface and submerged horizontal plate while the roll force can be ignored.3) The maximum sway wave exciting force exists,it is the main factor for surface or submerged vertical plate,and the roll force is about 20 times of horizontal plate.     

Robust control based on feedback linearization for roll stabilizing of autonomous underwater vehicle under wave disturbances

In the case of Autonomous Underwater Vehicle(AUV) navigating with low speed near water surface,a new method for design of roll motion controller is proposed in order to restrain wave disturbance effectively and improve roll stabilizing performance.Robust control is applied,which is based on uncertain nonlinear horizontal motion model of AUV and the principle of zero speed fin stabilizer.Feedback linearization approach is used to transform the complex nonlinear system into a comparatively simple linear system.For parameter uncertainty of motion model,the controller is designed with mixed-sensitivity method based on H-infinity robust control theory.Simulation results show better robustness improved by this control method for roll stabilizing of AUV navigating near water surface.     

水波在软淤泥底床上的衰减

本文研究了二层流体系统中波浪的衰减。上层为理想流体，下层为粘弹性Ｖｏｉｇｔ体。导出了色散关系，计算了波浪衰减系数。对于粘性或弹性很大或很小的情况，导出了各种水深情况下近似的显式的衰减系数表示式。与精确的数值结果比较，近似程度很好。可供工程设计参考、使用。