浅滩地形上波浪破碎对低频波能放大的影响

低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。     

海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙作用研究进展

海滩养护已经成为全球基于自然(nature-based)海岸防护的主要手段,并得到广泛应用。随着全球强风区海岸海滩养护工程数量的增加,海滩养护对海岸风沙过程产生的一系列影响逐渐得到重视。海滩养护工程形成了新的海滩地貌形态,扩大了海滩风区、增加了风沙物源、提高了滩面高程、改变了滩面沉积物,海滩地貌和沉积物组分变化引起了风沙运动过程的变化,与自然海滩风沙过程相比,有其独特的过程和特征,已经成为海岸风沙研究的热点之一。本文从海滩养护影响下的风沙环境变化、风沙活动变化以及养护海滩对沙丘的影响等3个方面梳理了国内外研究进展,提出养护海滩风沙研究存在区域不平衡以及风沙过程的综合性影响和定量化研究不足等问题,并结合我国海滩养护未来的发展趋势,从强风区养护海滩风沙运动规律、养护海滩风沙环境全要素的综合影响和风沙作用变化的模型评估等方面展望了我国养护海滩风沙研究的未来发展方向。     

Quasi-three-dimensional modelling of the morphology of longshore bars

A morphological quasi-three-dimensional (Q3D) area model for barred coasts has been developed. The model combines a two-dimensional depth integrated model for wave-driven currents with a model for undertow circulation currents. The combined model makes a simultaneous simulation of the bar-forming processes associated with the undertow and the horizontal wave-driven circulation currents, which may cause instabilities of the bar and the formation of rip channels. Situations with normal and oblique wave incidence are considered. Compared to the depth integrated approach the Q3D model produces less pronounced alongshore irregularities for obliquely incident waves. For normal incident waves the Q3D model produces a crescentic bar while the depth integrated model predicts almost straight sections of the bar interrupted by rip channels. The sensitivity to variation of wave angle and beach slope is further investigated.     

莺歌海三莺村岸段人工沙滩工程岸线数值模拟以及模型的验证方法

以乐东莺歌海三莺村岸段人工沙滩工程为例,其完工1年后的岸线监测结果,表明需要进一步对人工沙滩后的海滩岸线演变进行研究分析。通过GENESIS岸线演变模型模拟人工沙滩后的岸线变化,并尝试采用3种方法对模型进行验证。经过验证后,对人工沙滩工程后1年、3年、5年岸线变化进行了模拟分析。研究结果表明:GENESIS岸线演变模型对于包围型(拦沙堤和离岸堤结合方式)人工沙滩工程是适用的。工程完工1年后,补沙岸线形成了侵淤变化的凹凸弯曲岸线,侵淤幅度不大,5年后侵淤幅度变缓,开始逐渐趋于平衡。据此,也为人工沙滩后期的养护、补沙防护工作起到重要的参考作用。     

Statistical characteristics of long waves nearshore

The random long wave runup on a beach of constant slope is studied in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow water theory. These solutions are used for calculation of the statistical characteristics of the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline and its horizontal velocity. It is shown that probability characteristics of the runup heights and extreme values of the shoreline velocity coincide in the linear and nonlinear theory. If the incident wave is represented by a narrow-band Gaussian process, the runup height is described by a Rayleigh distribution. The significant runup height can also be found within the linear theory of long wave shoaling and runup. Wave nonlinearity nearshore does not affect the Gaussian probability distribution of the velocity of the moving shoreline. However the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline becomes non-Gaussian due to the wave nonlinearity. Its statistical moments are calculated analytically. It is shown that the mean water level increases (setup), the skewness is always positive and kurtosis is positive for weak amplitude waves and negative for strongly nonlinear waves. The probability of the wave breaking is also calculated and conditions of validity of the analytical theory are discussed. The spectral and statistical characteristics of the moving shoreline are studied in detail. It is shown that the probability of coastal floods grows with an increase in the nonlinearity. Randomness of the wave field nearshore leads to an increase in the wave spectrum width.     

Analysis of submerged bar nourishment strategies in a wave-dominated environment using a 2DV process-based model

The present study aims to analyze the effects of different submerged bars nourishment strategies using a 2DV process-based morphodynamical model. A two-barred beach profile typical of the French Mediterranean micro-tidal storm-dominated coastline is chosen as a reference profile. Two different kinds of modified beach profiles are considered. (i) Only the outer bar is nourished, the inner bar being unchanged (ii) both bars are nourished. Three typical wave forcing regimes are considered. The behavior of the natural profile is first investigated under the 3 wave forcing regimes. Then the behavior of the various nourished profiles is analyzed in terms of wave dynamics and bars behavior. On the basis of the model results, the outer bar only nourishment strategy appears to be preferable.     

Spatio‐temporal dynamics of the surf‐zone faunal assemblages at a Southern Oregon sandy beach

Sandy beach/surf‐zone ecosystems are unique environments that, despite the harsh and highly variable hydrodynamic conditions, present a diverse and heterogeneous fauna. However, the dynamics of these ecosystems are currently poorly understood. In this study we tested the hypothesis that surf‐zone assemblages vary with temporal factors such as time of day, tide and tidal height. To test this hypothesis, the surf‐zone community of Bastendorff, a Southern Oregon sandy beach was sampled during the summer of 2006. Samples were collected to (i) describe the smaller, benthic and larger swimming assemblages, (ii) determine whether assemblage compositions, densities, species richness and diversity vary with time of day, tide and tidal height, (iii) explore potential reasons for the variation by correlating environmental factors to the assemblages, and (iv) identify particular species that most strongly exhibit these variations. A hyperbenthic sledge, a sediment corer and a beach seine were used to collect the smaller swimming, benthic and larger swimming fauna, respectively. Sampling occurred during day and night, spring and neap tide, and high, mid and low tide. A total of 76,743 individuals belonging to 105 species were collected. Ninety‐one invertebrate (72,904 individuals), 15 invertebrates (2234 individuals), and 19 invertebrate and vertebrate species (1605 individuals) were collected with the sledge, corer and seine, respectively. Nine species of fish were caught, 98% of which were juveniles. The smaller and larger swimming assemblages varied most strongly with the time of day, suggesting certain species will actively move to the shallow surf‐zone at night. The three assemblages also varied with the tide, potentially due to the larger waves and higher abundance of detached macrophytes observed during spring tides when compared to neap tides, which could push individuals into the surf zone. The benthic assemblage most strongly varied with tidal height and sand grain size, confirming the presence of different faunal zones within Oregon sandy beaches. Finally, several variables of the swimming assemblages varied with temperature and salinity, suggesting that downwelling favorable conditions may have transported species close to shore. Bastendorff presents a complex and diverse surf‐zone community that appears to be influenced by diel species movements, environmental variables such as wave height and abundance of detached macrophytes, and regional oceanographic conditions.     

瓯江口树排沙湿地不同生境大型底栖动物群落多样性研究

为了解瓯江口树排沙湿地不同生境大型底栖动物群落多样性,于2014年10月至2015年6月对红树林、互花米草及光滩3种生境开展大型底栖动物调查。共鉴定出大型底栖动物48种,隶属于5纲15目31科40属。大型底栖动物年平均栖息密度和生物量,红树林生境最高,互花米草生境次之,光滩生境最低。采用物种多样性指数和G-F多样性指数分析不同生境大型底栖动物群落多样性,发现红树林生境大型底栖动物的多样性高于互花米草生境和光滩生境。单因素方差分析表明:物种数、栖息密度、生物量及物种多样性季节间差异不显著,而物种数、Shannon-Wiener多样性指数与Margalef物种丰富度指数生境间差异显著。人工恢复红树林有助于提高大型底栖动物群落的多样性。     

基于多源数据的福建东山岛海岸侵蚀及其不同时空尺度成因分析

海岸侵蚀对海岛紧缺的陆地资源及旅游价值较大的沙滩危害巨大。基于卫星遥感、有人航空摄影、无人机航测、GPS和现场调查等多源数据,利用GIS分析了东山岛海岸线类型、位置与长度变化及滩面冲蚀演变。研究表明,东山岛多处曲折自然岸线转化为较为平直的人工岸线致使整体岸线长度减少,无人机高程反演满足滩面排水冲蚀监测精度要求,乌礁湾和山南湾不同养殖排水方式形成不同特征的滩面冲沟,改变了沙滩微地貌形态。海平面上升和台风风暴潮是长期趋势性和短期突发性侵蚀因素的代表,当前短时间尺度的人类活动已成为滩面冲蚀的最主要因素,且有可能转变为长期趋势性因素。     

海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面短期时空变化及沉积动态分析 *

海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。