Dynamic analysis of a vertical plate exposed to breaking wave impact

From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of p_max/γH₀≤18.     

Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

海洋沉积物声速与物理参数的关系

海洋沉积声速与物理性质密切相关，特别是含水量Ｗ和孔隙度Ｎ，它们在建立回归议程和预报沉积物性质中有所贡献。中国东，南海沿海沉积物的资料和数据表明：声速和声速比可以用来预报沉积物性质。     

Community and Population Responses of the Macroinfauna to Physical Factors over a Range of Exposed Sandy Beaches in South-central Chile

Ten exposed sandy sites covering a range from reflective to dissipative beaches were sampled in south-central Chile to evaluate: (1) spatial changes in species richness, abundance and biomass of the intertidal macroinfauna in response to changes in mean grain size, beach face slope and beach type, and (2) spatial changes in abundance, biomass and body sizes of the most abundant species in response to changes in the physical factors. The number of species, abundance and biomass per beach in general decreased with increasing particle size and beach face slope (steeper beaches) and increased from reflective to dissipative conditions. The best fit for number of species was with Dean's parameter, a measure of beach type, whereas for abundance and biomass the best fits were found with particle size. The isopod Excirolana braziliensis and the anomuran Emerita analoga increased in abundance and biomass towards dissipative conditions, whereas Excirolana hirsuticauda showed the opposite trend in biomass and was significantly larger in beaches with steeper profiles. It is concluded that responses to changes in beach type are more pronounced at community level than within species populations.     

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

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中国近海鱼类生活史型与生态学参数地理变异

根据1985－1986年东海北部近海调查材料及其它有关文献，对43种鱼计74个种群或群体的生活史选择型及其生态参数进行了比较研究。结果表明，分布于我国近海的主要鱼类大多偏于r选择型。对r－K选择鱼种的资源特征及其对捕捞的反应作了阐述。各鱼种的种群生态学参数在种间和空间分布均表现出地理变异。     

Current status of bacteriological parameters and DOC/POC in Xiamen coastal waters

The surface and bottom waters samples were collected from six locations in Xiamen western sea. The quantified estimation of bacterial production (3H-thymidine method) and observation of bacterial heterotrophic activity (14C-glucose method) have been made in order to have a better understanding of the role of marine bacteria and their activities. The results showed that the mean value of bacterial heterotrophic activity was 9×108 cells/(L.h) in the surface waters and 2.6×108 cells/(L.h) in the bottom waters. The mean value of bacterial production was 38×108 cells/(L.h) in the surface waters and 7.1×108 cells/(L.h) in the bottom waters. The relationship between bacterial production, heterotrophic activity, POC and DOC measured during this survey were discussed. The good understanding of the relationship between bacteria activity and total coliform was addressed.     

Nonlinear coupled dynamic response of offshore Spar platforms under regular sea waves

Many innovative floating offshore structures have been proposed for cost effectiveness of oil and gas exploration and production in water depths exceeding one thousand meters in recent years. One such type of platform is the offshore floating Spar platform. The Spar platform is modelled as a rigid body with six degrees-of-freedom, connected to the sea floor by multi-component catenary mooring lines, which are attached to the Spar platform at the fairleads. The response dependent stiffness matrix consists of two parts (a) the hydrostatics provide restoring force in heave, roll and pitch, (b) the mooring lines provide the restoring force which are represented here by nonlinear horizontal springs. A unidirectional regular wave model is used for computing the incident wave kinematics by Airy’s wave theory and force by Morison’s equation. The response analysis is performed in time domain to solve the dynamic behavior of the moored Spar platform as an integrated system using the iterative incremental Newmark’s Beta approach. Numerical studies are conducted for sea state conditions with and without coupling of degrees-of-freedom.     

Simulation of wave power devices

Classical frequency and time domain models of a single degree of freedom wave power device are presented. In the time domain, a convolution integral is conventionally used to represent the fluid dynamic radiation force, characterised by added mass and damping in the frequency domain. This integral is replaced by an approximate ordinary differential equation (ODE) model which is faster and more convenient in simulations. A time domain model of the fluid dynamics of an oscillating water column (OWC) device is derived to illustrate the technique. Digital simulations of the OWC are used to compare the accuracy of the classical and ODE models. The simulation of the ODE model runs about six times as fast as the classical model based on convolution, yet characterises the fluid dynamics accurately.