LPB1-1型海洋平台测波系统

ＬＰＢ１－１型海洋平台测波系统是一种适用于海洋平台,港口码头,海岛等环境条件测量波浪的仪器。对该系统的工作原理、组成,主要技术性能,特点以及实现方法作了概要描述,并对系统采用的信号处理技术进行简要分析。     

一维有耗散波动方程的奇性分析与小波

对系数有强奇性（间断）的波动方程,用通常的线性化简的方法时往往会将数值小但奇性强的项略去,导致结果严重失真。利用小波变换这一工具,可以在化简时保留奇性的主要部分,使所得的结果从奇性分析的观点看来更为精确。此方法曾被用来处理系数有间断的一维波动方程,得到了与精确解的奇性主部完全一致的解．在本文中,我们改进了用小波变换作奇性化简的方法,对系数有间断的一维有耗散波动方程求得了与精确解奇性主部完全一致的解。这说明利用小波分析作奇性化简的方法对高频近似及奇性分析问题是普遍适用的．     

太平煤矿深厚土层的水文地质工程地质性质

依据对太平煤矿3号煤区深厚土层的水文地质与工程地质勘测及室内外实验结果,分析了主要的水文地质与工程地质特征及其对3号煤开采的影响,对矿区防水煤岩柱留设高度进行了合理确定。      

沉积盆地中恢复地层剥蚀量的新方法

主要介绍了磷灰石裂变径迹分析法,沉积波动过程分析法和宇宙成因核素分析法等３种恢复和计算地层剥蚀量的新方法。它们的优点是不但给出一个剥蚀面造成的地层总的剥蚀量,还能详细刻画整个剥蚀过程,从而能计算出每一期构造抬升引起的地层剥蚀量。     

Computation of solitary waves during propagation and runup on a slope

A numerical time-simulation algorithm for analysing highly nonlinear solitary waves interacting with plane gentle and steep slopes is described by employing a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian method. The full nonlinear free surface conditions are considered here in a Lagrangian frame of reference without any analytical approximations, and thus the method is valid for very steep waves including overturning. It is found that the runup height is crucially dependent on the wave steepness and the slope of the plane. Pressures and forces exerted on impermeable walls of different inclinations (slopes) by progressive shallow water solitary waves are studied. Strong nonlinear features in the form of pronounced double peaks are visible in the time history of pressure and force signals with increasing heights of the oncoming solitary waves. The effect of nonlinearity is less pronounced as the inclination of the wall decreases with respect to the bottom surface.     

On the choice of data transformation for modelling time series of significant wave height

Autoregressive models have been shown to adequately model the time series of significant wave height. However, since this series exhibits a seasonal component and has a non-gaussian nature, it is necessary to transform the series before a model can be fit to the data. Two different transformations that have been used in earlier work are shown not to be appropriate for all types of applications. A third transformation is proposed here, which combines the better features of the two earlier ones and which is appropriate for simulation work. This is demonstrated with an example of a series from Figueira da Foz, a location of the Portuguese Coast.     

层化流体中半板造波的内波解

为了形象地说明内波的传播模式,研究给出了内波水槽中由半板造波所形成的内波解。结合Ｖａｅｉｓａｅｌａｅ频率Ｎ（ｚ）＝ｃｏｎｓｔ和简化Ｈｏｌｍｂｏｅ两种密度剖面模式讨论了内波场的传播图案。在内波水槽中成功地形成了上述两种密度剖面,相应的实验印证了本文分析的正确性。     

Depthimeter-Precise Vessel Depth for Bathymetry

This article describes the design, operation, and field testing of the depthimeter. The depthimeter merges heave and acoustically derived vessel depth to form estimates of instantaneous vessel depth and instantaneous sea surface height, both relative to mean sea level. Results from sea trials held in December 1997 demonstrate successful operation of the system.     

Modelling of pile wave barriers by effective trenches and their screening effectiveness

The three-dimensional problem of isolation of vibration by a row of piles is studied numerically on the basis of a model replacing the row of piles by an effective trench in order to reduce the modelling complexity. The analysis is accomplished with the aid of an advanced frequency domain boundary element method, which is used for both the infilled trench and the soil medium in conjunction with a coupling procedure based on enforcement of equilibrium and compatibility at the trench–soil interface. Linear elastic or viscoelastic material behaviour is assumed for both the piles and the soil. The piles can be tubular or solid and have circular or square cross-section. The vibration source is a vertical force, harmonically varying with time, and the row of piles acts as a passive wave barrier. The effective trench model is constructed by invoking well known homogenization techniques used in the mechanics of fibre-reinforced composite materials, and its accuracy is compared against a rigorous boundary element analysis modelling each pile separately in full contact with the soil medium. On the basis of the effective trench model, the screening effectiveness of a row of piles is studied through parametric studies.     

Application of Weibull model for redefined significant wave height distributions

It is well accepted that the parent distribution for individual ocean wave heights follows the Weibull model. However this model does not simulate significant wave height which is the average of the highest one-third of some ‘n’ (n- varies) wave heights in a wave record. It is now proposed to redefine significant wave height as average of the highest one-third of a constant number (n-constant, say,n = 100) of consecutive individual wave heights. The Weibull model is suggested for simulating redefined significant wave height distribution by the method of characteristic function. An empirical support of 100.00% is established by Χ²-test at 0.05 level of significance for 3 sets of data at 0900, 1200 and 1500 hrs at Valiathura, Kerala coast. Parametric relations have been derived for the redefined significant wave height parameters such as mean, maximum one-third average, extreme wave heights, return periods of an extreme wave height and the probability of realising an extreme wave height in a time less than the designated return period.