High‐resolution reconstruction of a coastal barrier system: impact of Holocene sea‐level change

This study presents a detailed reconstruction of the sedimentary effects of Holocene sea‐level rise on a modern coastal barrier system. Increasing concern over the evolution of coastal barrier systems due to future accelerated rates of sea‐level rise calls for a better understanding of coastal barrier response to sea‐level changes. The complex evolution and sequence stratigraphic framework of the investigated coastal barrier system is reconstructed using facies analysis, high‐resolution optically stimulated luminescence and radiocarbon dating. During the formation of the coastal barrier system starting 8 to 7 ka rapid relative sea‐level rise outpaced sediment accumulation. Not before rates of relative sea‐level rise had decreased to ca 2 mm yr^?1 did sediment accumulation outpace sea‐level rise. From ca 5·5 ka, rates of regionally averaged sediment accumulation increased to 4·3 mm yr^?1 and the back‐barrier basin was filled in. This increase in sediment accumulation resulted from retreat of the barrier island and probably also due to formation of a tidal inlet close to the study area. Continued transgression and shoreface retreat created a distinct hiatus and wave ravinement surface in the seaward part of the coastal barrier system before the barrier shoreline stabilized between 5·0 ka and 4·5 ka. Back‐barrier shoreline erosion due to sediment starvation in the back‐barrier basin was pronounced from 4·5 to 2·5 ka but, in the last 2·5 kyr, barrier sedimentation has kept up with and outpaced sea‐level. In the last 0·4 kyr the coastal barrier system has been prograding episodically. Sediment accumulation shows considerable variation, with periods of rapid sediment deposition and periods of non‐deposition or erosion resulting in a highly punctuated sediment record. The study demonstrates how core‐based facies interpretations supported by a high‐resolution chronology and a well‐documented sea‐level history allow identification of depositional environments, erosion surfaces and hiatuses within a very homogeneous stratigraphy, and allow a detailed temporal reconstruction of a coastal barrier system in relation to sea‐level rise and sediment supply.     

Preliminary evaluation of the occurrence of herbicides and PAHs in the Wet Tropics region of the Great Barrier Reef, Australia, using passive samplers

The proximity of the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) Marine Park to areas of intensive agriculture and increasing urbanisation places the park under potential threat of contamination by land-based pollutants. Passive samplers were deployed at inshore reef and river mouth sites in the Wet Tropics region of the GBR during a dry and a wet season to measure levels of land-based organic pollutants in this environment. Two types of passive sampling devices were deployed: (i) a polar sampler, which can be used to monitor polar herbicides and (ii) semipermeable membrane devices (SPMDs) which sequester more hydrophobic compounds (e.g. PAHs, chlorpyrifos). Herbicides (diuron, simazine, atrazine, hexazinone and/or flumeturon) were detected at low concentrations (ng L⁻¹) at all sites sampled and in both seasons. Chlorpyrifos was not detected while PAHs were present in SPMDs at levels below limits of detection. The results show that the GBR environment does contain low levels of organic pollutants and that passive sampling provides a sensitive monitoring tool for measuring waterborne organic pollutants.     

Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001

A field experiment conducted on a sandy barred beach, situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coastline, allowed us to investigate the impact of the intertidal bar on the wave-energy dissipation on the beach face in presence of a high-energy long-incoming swell (significant wave height of about 1.7 to 3.0 m in 56 m water depth and significant wave period about 12 s). Data were collected along three parallel cross-shore transects deployed along an intertidal ridge and runnel system. Wave heights in the inner surf zone are depth-limited, consistent with previous works, and the wave-energy dissipation in the inner surf zone appears to be relatively independent of the offshore energy level. On the other hand, the presence of the bar seems to scatter the data. In models of surf-zone hydrodynamics, wave-energy dissipation is often parameterized in terms of , the ratio of the sea-swell significant wave height to the local mean water depth. The observed values of are not constant along a cross-shore transect, and increase onshore. Furthermore, the observed values observed onshore the intertidal bar are higher than those observed outside the influence of the intertidal bar, and this cannot be fully explained by the different local beach slope.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann     

岷江上游潜在性泥石流堰塞湖危害及判识

汶川地震造成泥石流形成条件的改变,其次生灾害堰塞湖的危害已开始显现。如何对震后潜在性泥石流堰塞湖进行判识,成为迫切需要解决的问题。选取岷江上游映秀至汶川段为研究区,通过分析震后泥石流形成条件的变化、典型泥石流堰塞湖的危害及松散物质储量,选取潜在性泥石流堰塞湖的判识指标,利用模糊物元可拓模型,建立潜在性泥石流堰塞湖的综合判识模式。通过判识,研究区形成泥石流堰塞湖可能性高的一级支沟有17条,主要集中分布在映秀镇至草坡乡段,此段将是今后受堰塞湖危害的高危地段。     

一个观察北极涛动与北大西洋涛动关系的典型个例

北极涛动与大西洋涛动是否属同一气候变率模态一直是北极涛动动力学研究方面的一个颇具争议的话题。文中通过对"0801南方雪灾"期间及其前后北极涛动与北大西洋涛动异常及产生原因进行个例分析,对两者之间的关系进行了讨论。首先使用交叉子波变换与子波相关方法分析了两者的相位关系。发现在30—60天时间尺度上北极涛动与北大西洋涛动相位相差90°或-90°。而在10 20天这一尺度上北极涛动与北大西洋涛动具有大致相同的相位。对北极涛动及北大西洋涛动形成的动力过程及其在拉尼娜背景下各自特点的分析表明,这种不同尺度上位相关系的差异来自于波-流相互作用动力学的局域性。众所周知,北极涛动的3个活动中心的形成与分别位于北大西洋、北太平洋和北极平流层的3个波流相互作用中心有关。而北大西洋涛动则主要与位于北大西洋的波-流相互作用中心有关。拉尼娜事件的出现通过影响太平洋急流及行星尺度的准定常波从而进一步强化了30-60天时间尺度上北极涛动与北大西洋涛动的这种差异。这主要是因为太平洋急流或准定常行星波在对流层中直接影响了位于该区域的北极涛动的活动中心。同时准定常行星波冬季向上传播至平流层并与平流层极涡相互作用从而也影响了北极涛动在北极的活动中心。而在10—20天时间尺度上的北极涛动与北大西洋涛动同步关系则说明它们都是北极涛动的另一活动中心即大西洋上同一波-流相互作用现象——天气波破碎的反映。基于上述分析.文中倾向于认同将北极涛动和北大西洋涛动区别考虑的观点。     

热带东印度洋海表温度持续性的秋季障碍

利用全球海表海温资料(GISST)和NCEP/NCAR再分析风场、海平面气压场资料,研究了热带东印度洋海表温度持续性的季节差异,发现东印度洋海温持续性存在"秋季障碍"现象。进一步分析了东印度洋"秋季障碍"后冬季海温与中东太平洋海温、海平面气压及850hPa风场的关系,并讨论了热带印度洋—太平洋地区海气系统的季节变化与东印度洋"秋季障碍"的关系,结果表明,秋季热带印度洋—太平洋地区海气系统由以印度洋季风环流为主导转向以太平洋海气系统为主导,太平洋海气系统处于急剧加强期,增强的太平洋海气系统对东印度洋海温持续性"秋季障碍"起着重要的作用。     

近60年来渤海海域波候变化及其与东亚环流的联系

研究海洋的波候变化是了解海洋动力过程对气候变迁响应的关键。渤海所处特殊的地理位置,使其波候在长期风场变化影响下存在阶段性变化特征。文章采用1950~2011年NCEP再分析资料中的渤海海域10 m风场资料,利用SWAN模式模拟逐月渤海波浪的有效波高、波向、波周期,分析该海区波候的变化特征。分析结果显示:1950~2011年期间渤海海域的有效波高呈现下降的趋势;波向角度均呈现上升的趋势,波周期相对平稳,略有上升;有效波高平均下降0.3 cm/a,波向角度平均增加0.12°/a。有效波高在1968年前后显现突变点,波向角度约在1960年突变,波周期在1965年左右出现突变点。渤海波候变化与海气振荡密切相关,是大尺度的大气环流变异导致的结果,长期气候变化背景下,东亚环流天气系统的长期变化(包括东亚季风强度、夏季风北界的移动,西太平洋副热带高压面积与强度的变化、脊点位置西伸与北进,以及西风指数的强弱变化等),是影响和控制渤海海域波气长期变化的主要原因。     

障壁坝砂体储层特征与成岩孔隙定量演化模式 ——以鄂尔多斯盆地延长探区本溪组为例

为明确海陆变迁背景下障壁坝砂体成岩孔隙演化规律,运用岩石薄片、扫描电镜及配套能谱、阴极发光等资料,对延长探区石炭系本溪组障壁成因砂体储集特征与成岩作用进行综合分析,并结合砂岩初始孔隙度恢复模型与薄片孔隙定量分析技术,开展基于埋藏热演化历程的储层孔隙演化参数定量评价,建立该区本溪组障壁坝砂岩孔隙定量演化模式。结果表明:储层砂岩以石英砂岩、岩屑质石英砂岩及岩屑砂岩为主;孔隙度、渗透率平均值分别为4.72%和1.22×10^(-3 )μm^2;储集空间以溶蚀扩大孔、粒内孔、晶间孔为主;现今储层主体已达到晚成岩阶段;砂岩初始孔隙度平均值为38.1%,埋藏至今共经历了四个典型的成岩增/减孔阶段,即P_1～T_2(285～208 Ma)"低地温、快埋藏"的大幅减孔阶段(-30.7%)、T_2～J_3(208～153 Ma)"高地温、缓沉降"的溶蚀增孔阶段(+3.9%)、J_3～K_1(153～96 Ma)"高地温、稳埋深"的减孔定型阶段(-6.6%)、K_1至今(96 Ma～)"低地温、晚隆升"的弱改造阶段。     

坡度对碎屑流冲击立式拦挡墙力学特征的影响

由坡度和挡墙倾角的改变造成碎屑流冲击力学模型的改变是目前被忽略的问题。在碎屑流冲击倾式拦挡墙物理试验的基础上,利用离散元数值计算方法研究了坡度对碎屑流冲击立式拦挡墙（墙面与地面的夹角为90°）力学特征的影响,依据死区颗粒堆积特征,流动层颗粒冲击特征以及二者的相互作用特征提出了两种新力学模型：由倾斜冲击挡墙向坡面堆积转变的力学模型和考虑流动层对死区冲切摩擦作用的水平直接冲击力学模型。对不同冲击力学模型进行了验证分析,结果表明：坡度和挡墙倾角改变了死区的堆积特征从而改变了流动层的冲击方向和冲击力大小。当坡度小于40°时,碎屑流流动层首先沿死区上覆面倾斜冲击挡墙,在最大冲击力作用时刻,流动在坡面层状堆积,最大法向冲击合力可按静土压力公式估算。随着坡度的增大,在最大冲击力时刻,流动层颗粒直接冲击挡墙,但由于死区颗粒对流动层颗粒具有摩擦缓冲减速作用,大幅降低了流动层对挡墙的直接冲击力。此时死区对挡墙的作用力主要包括3个部分：流动层沿坡面冲击死区,由死区传递至挡墙的冲击力、流动层对死区的冲切摩擦力以及死区自重的静土压力。死区对挡墙作用力占最大法向冲击合力的比例增大至90%左右。当坡度由40°增大到50°时,在最大法向冲击合力作用时刻,流动层对死区的冲切摩擦力占最大冲击力的比例由15%增大到49%,流动层与死区之间的摩擦系数由滚动摩擦系数转变为静摩擦系数。提出的流动层对死区的冲切摩擦力为碎屑流冲击刚性挡墙力学计算模型提供了新的研究思路。     

Numerical study for vegetation effects on coastal wave propagation by using nonlinear Boussinesq model

The vegetation has important impacts on coastal wave propagation. In the paper, the sensitivities of coastal wave attenuation due to vegetation to incident wave height, wave period and water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are numerically studied by using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. The model is based on the implementation of drag resistances due to vegetation in the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation where the drag resistance is provided by the Morison’s formulation for rigid structure induced drag stresses. The model is firstly validated by comparing with the experimental results for wave propagation in vegetation zones. Subsequently, the model is used to simulate waves with different height, period propagating on vegetation zones with different water depth and vegetation configurations. The sensitivities of wave attenuation to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are investigated based on the numerical results. The numerical results indicate that wave height attenuation due to vegetation is sensitive to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations, and attenuation ratio of wave height is increased monotonically with increases of incident wave height and decreases of water depth, while it is complex for wave period. Moreover, more vegetation segments can strengthen the interaction of vegetation and wave in a certain range.