Modelling of the spatial evolution of extreme laboratory wave crest and trough heights with the NLS-type equations

The statistical properties of long-crested nonlinear wave time series measured in an offshore basin have been analyzed in different aspects such as the distributions of surface elevation, wave crest, wave trough, and wave period. Comparison with linear, second-order and third-order theoretical models indicates that although bound wave effects also contribute to the deviation from a Gaussian process, it is the modulational instability that primarily determines the discrepancy in the evolution process in the presence of strong nonlinearity. Interestingly enough, wave crest is more sensitive to the quasi-resonant four-wave interaction effect than wave trough and the scaled maximal wave crest presents a linear regression model with the coefficient of kurtosis. Meanwhile, the estimation of the observed statistical properties is reconstructed on the basis of an ensemble of 100 wave series simulated by the NLS-type equations and compared favourably with the experimental results in most cases. Moreover, with the increased third-order nonlinear effect the difference between NLS and Dysthe simulations is enlarged and mainly reflected on the distribution of wave crest.     

Comparison of Near Coastal Significant Wave Height Measurements from SARAL/AltiKa with Wave Rider Buoys in the Indian Region

Significant Wave Height (SWH) measurement data from the AltiKa Radar Altimeter (RA) for the first 13 cycles of satellite coverage are compared with the SWH from Wave Rider Buoys (WRB) located at nine stations along the Indian coast to assess the performance of the altimeter over the coastal region. AltiKa SWH observations within a 30-minute interval and 50 km distance from WRBs are found to be over estimated by 6%, the Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) is 0.36 m, the Scatter Index (SI) is 26%, and the correlation coefficient (r) is 0.91. Relaxing the distance criteria by 50 km leads to increase in RMSE and deterioration of r to 0.89. There is a marked difference in the statistics on the comparison pairs pooled separately for the buoys near west and east coasts, with the latter showing RMSE error 26% more than the former. The method of Cressman weights adopted to correct for the errors arising out of the temporal and spatial differences in altimeter and buoy data comparison pairs resulted in reduction of RMSE by 5% and 25%, respectively, for the 30-minute and 50 km criteria and 4% and 56% for the 30-minute and 100 km criteria.     

一种高频雷达回波谱反演海浪的新算法

在高频地波雷达海浪谱反演问题中,广泛采用的Barrick后向散射公式属于第一类非线性Fredholm积分方程。此类积分方程的解在本质上是不适定的,加之高频雷达二阶回波信号信噪比较低,使得反演海浪谱存在解不稳定的问题。本文提出一种稳定且低复杂度的反演算法,此算法首先根据高频雷达一阶回波谱测量海浪方向,并将其引入积分方程求解过程,减少求解变量的个数,降低反演算法的复杂度。为解决反演结果不稳定的问题,使用Tikhonov正则化方法并利用广义交叉验证法(GCV)确定其正则化系数。通过在不同测试条件下对反演算法的仿真测试分析,表明此方法具有运算量小、稳定性好的特点。     

Barothropic relaxing media under pressure perturbations: Nonlinear dynamics

In this paper, we delve into the dynamics of a barothropic relaxing medium under pressure perturbations originating from blast wave explosions in the milieu. Analyzing the problem within the viewpoint of the Lyakhov formalism of geodynamic systems, we derive a complex-valued nonlinear evolution equation which models the wave propagation of the pressure perturbations within the barothropic medium. As a result, we find that the previous system can be circularly polarized and hence support traveling rotating pressure excitations which profiles strongly depend upon their angular momenta. In the wake of these results, we address some physical implications of the findings alongside their potential applications.     

水下滑翔机在识别水团新结构中的应用

本研究基于中国科学院沈阳自动化研究所自主研发的水下滑翔机在热带东太平洋观测获取的连续剖面温盐数据,并通过与多套不同数据的比测,证实国产水下滑翔机观测的温盐数据准确可靠,未来可大范围应用于深海大洋。观测结果首次发现该海域北太平洋中央水（NPCW）（50~100 m）的60~80 m层分布着中间层低盐水,分析认为该低盐水来源于水团下方的加利福尼亚流系水（CCS）,中间层低盐水形成的动力机制主要受跃层附近的内波控制,并与内波强度密切相关,同时受上层（20~60 m）障碍层的影响,该中间层低盐水仅仅出现在60~80 m。本研究发现内波与障碍层能够通过影响动能与热能的传输进而促进水团新结构的形成,相关成果丰富了内波与障碍层对上层海洋响应的研究,具有重要的科学价值。     

西北太平洋海域风浪、涌浪、混合浪波浪能资源特征

用ECMWF的ERA-40海浪再分析资料,应用波浪能流密度计算方法,对西北太平洋海域的风浪能、涌浪能、混合浪能展开研究。结果表明:(1)波浪能流密度呈现出显著季节性差异。混合浪能流密度表现为冬高夏低;春、夏、秋季的涌浪能流密度明显大于风浪能流密度,冬季相反;(2)混合浪能流密度的大值区主要分布于阿留申群岛附近海域,高值中心可达60 kW/m以上;近海的大值区主要分布于琉球群岛—巴士海峡—传统的南海大风区一带,年平均值在4 kW/m以上,南海北部可达12 kW/m以上;(3)黄渤海的涌浪和混合浪能流密度峰值出现在8—9月,波谷出现在6月。风浪能流密度峰值出现在11月—次年3月,波谷出现在6—8月,均呈现双峰型月变化特征。东海、南海北部、南海中南部海域能流密度的月变化特征相似,都为双峰型,12月—次年4月的能流密度整体较高,波峰出现在12月,波谷出现在5—7月;(4)2 kW/m以上混合浪能流密度出现的频率较高,近海低于大洋;(5)0.5 m以上有效波高出现的频率都非常高,中国近海稍低于大洋;(6)涌浪能流密度的稳定性明显好于风浪能流密度;大洋的能流密度稳定性明显强于近岸。1月份能流密度的稳定性最好,4月和7月次之,10月的稳定性最差。     

丹麦日德兰半岛西海岸典型岸段地貌概况及研究现状

通过实地调查和资料搜集,对丹麦日德兰半岛西海岸典型岸段的地貌类型和研究现状进行了总结。丹麦日德兰半岛西海岸岸线长度约为470km,海岸类型可以分为无障壁海岸和有障壁海岸2大类。无障壁海岸以沙丘为主,并有海蚀崖,主要分布在斯卡恩(Skagen)到布劳万角(Bl?vands Huk);有障壁海岸地貌类型以障壁岛—潟湖、盐沼为主,主要分布在布劳万角到勒姆岛(R?m?),并向南进入德国。丹麦西海岸北部属于冰后期地壳回弹上升区,向南地壳回弹幅度逐渐减弱,至Ringk?bing峡湾地区变为地壳稳定区,再向南地壳变为下降区,因此,全新世地层中分别记录了不同的相对海面变化信息。距今7 150a以来,北部的Skagen岬角地区的相对海面下降了16~25m;Skallingen地区过去5 000a间海面在现代海面附近波动,其后侧Ho Bugt盐沼地区4 000a以来相对海面上升了4m;过去8 000a间,R?m?障壁岛的相对海面上升了15m。欧洲学者在丹麦西海岸地区取得的典型成果包括:海面变化重建(包括海面变化标志点、泥炭层压实校正、定年等)、全新世地质环境演化、开放潮坪现代沉积定量研究等,为海岸带研究提供了有益参考。     

1961-2010年辽宁省高温日数和高温热浪特征分析

利用1961-2010年辽宁省52个气象站日最高气温资料,分析辽宁地区高温日数及热浪的分布特征和变化趋势,结果表明：辽宁省区域年平均高温日数为7.72 d/ a。辽宁高温日数呈东少西多的空间分布,沿海地区较少甚至部分地区无高温情况出现。高温日出现最多的朝阳站,为26.48 d/ a。从20世纪60年代开始,高温日数呈缓慢增加趋势,其中2000年为有气象记录以来高温日最多的年份。热浪也呈东少西多的分布特征,热浪最多的朝阳站发生频次为2.90次/ a。辽宁省以持续3-5 d的轻度热浪为主,占86.27 %,中度热浪占12.58 %,超过10 d的重度热浪占1.14 %,仅有喀左、北票和羊山地区发生过持续10 d以上的重度热浪。     

On a near-optimal control approach for a wave energy converter in irregular waves

Real-time smooth reactive control and optimal damping of wave energy converters in irregular waves is difficult in part because the radiation impulse response function is real and causal, which constrains the frequency-dependent added mass and radiation damping according to the Kramers–Kronig relations. Optimal control for maximum energy conversion requires independent synthesis of the impulse response functions corresponding to these two quantities. Since both are non-causal (one being odd and other even), full cancellation of reactive forces and matching of radiation damping requires knowledge or estimation of device velocity into the future. To address this difficulty and the non-causality of the exciting force impulse response function, this paper investigates the use of propagating-wave surface elevation up-wave of the device to synthesize the necessary forces. Long-crested waves are assumed, and the approach is based on the formulations of Naito and Nakamura [2] and Falnes [22]. A predominantly heaving submerged device comprised of three vertically stacked discs driving a linear power take-off is studied. The overall formulation leads to smooth control that is near-optimal, given the approximations involved in the time-shifting of the non-causal impulse response functions and the consequent up-wave distances at which wave surface elevation is required. Absorbed power performance with the near-optimal approach is compared with two other cases, (i) when single-frequency tuning is used based on non-real time adjustment of the reactive and resistive loads to maximize conversion at the spectral peak frequency, and (ii) when no control is applied with damping set to a constant value. Simulation results for wave spectra over a range of energy periods and significant wave heights are compared for the three situations studied. While practical implementation presents engineering challenges, in terms of time-averaged absorbed power, unconstrained near-optimal control is found to perform significantly better than single-frequency tuning in the spectra with longer energy periods (>10 s for the present device), and somewhat better in the spectra with shorter energy periods (here ≤10 s).     

带丁坝型半封闭矩形海湾中M_2分潮潮波和潮流特性分析

将黄渤海海域概化为矩形海湾,山东半岛概化为垂直于海岸的巨型丁坝,形成一个带丁坝型半封闭矩形海湾。利用DELFT3D-FLOW计算模块在上述海湾中进行了M2分潮数值模拟,对其无潮点和辐射状潮流场的特性进行了分析。研究发现:考虑科氏力影响和巨型丁坝反射作用,坝前形成了明显的无潮点,但在等水深条件下并未形成辐射状潮流场,而叠加上倾斜海底地形后其得以形成;无潮点和辐射状潮流场顶端位置受水深影响明显,随着平均水深的增大,无潮点将向湾口和湾中轴线方向偏移,而辐射状潮流场顶端则向湾口方向偏移。研究结果有助于加深对带丁坝型半封闭矩形海湾中驻潮波系统形成机制和动力特性的理解和认识。