Boulders of MIS 5 age deposited by a tsunami on the coast of Otago, New Zealand

A series of elevated imbricated boulders were investigated on the Otago coastline, southeast New Zealand, through field surveying and optical luminescence dating. By using established hydrodynamic relationships of sediment transport the energy required to move the clasts was calculated and compared to the historic record of marine inundations of that coast. The boulders are platy in shape and are over 2 m long in some cases, and are sourced from a locally outcropping conglomerate unit which appears to be the only lithology on this section of coast that erodes to produce clasts of this size. It is estimated that the boulders were deposited by a tsunami between 2 and 3 m high during the latter part of Marine Isotope Stage 5. They therefore represent the first pre-Holocene tsunami deposit and one composed of large boulders described on the New Zealand coastline.     

腾冲盆地阻水构造的发现

腾冲来凤山北麓前缘,潜伏一段阻水构造——地下水位坡降带。从研究13个水文钻井、119口民间井、2个泉水露头地下水位特征入手,采用古水文和现代水文地质研究方法,论证此段阻水构造的存在。     

太阳常数的变化与太阳软x射线辐射流量及低频天波时延的关系

本文对1982年在陕西临潼接收的美国罗兰-C西北大平洋链Y台发射的100kHz低频一跳天波时延的实测资料及SMS－GOES测量的太阳1～8A软x射线的每日辐射流量与SMM／ACRIMI测量的太阳常数之间的关系进行了分析。结果表明：太阳1～8A软x射线辐射流量与太阳常数之间存在较强的负相关;低频一跳天波时延与太阳常数之间存在着较强的正相关。并对此进行了讨论。     

An analytical source function for a coupled hybrid wave model

An analytical form for the source function is formulated by comparing the fetch-limited approximation of the Ocean Wave Transport equation and the empirical equation for the fetch-dependent wave forecast nomograms. The source function thus generated has been utilised in the numerical model based on Toba’s formulation of wave transport equation and tested for the seas around the Indian subcontinent (5°S to 25°N latitude; 45°E to 100°E longitude). The grid averaged hindcast wave heights are found to be moderately matching with the GEOSAT altimeter measured significant wave heights of the 1987–1989 period, particularly for waves higher than 1 meter.     

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point,northern ireland

Magilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.     

Rainfall on the Sea: Surface Renewals and Wave Damping

Rainfall on the sea surface causes a variety of effects on the molecular boundary layers. Two such effects are the reduction of the surface renewal time period and the damping of short gravity waves being responsible for wave breaking at higher wave frequencies. The effects described recently by Schlüssel et al. are revaluated in order to fully include the varying raindrop velocity. New parameterizations are derived, which differ from the previous ones, and a substantially higher kinetic energy flux due to rain is found. The general conclusions about the impact on the thermal molecular boundary do not change, although we point to several minor errors in the calculations of Schlüssel et al. (1997).     

Efficiency verification of a horizontal flow barrier via flowmeter tests and multilevel sampling

The remediation strategy for an industrial site located in a coastal area involves a pump and treat system and a horizontal flow barrier (HFB) penetrating the main aquifer. To validate the groundwater flow conceptual model and to verify the efficiency of the remediation systems, we carried out piezometric measurements, slug tests, pumping tests, flowmeter tests and multilevel sampling. Flowmeter tests are used to infer vertical groundwater flow directions, and base exchange index is used to infer horizontal flow directions at a metric scale. The selected wells are located both upstream and downstream of the HFB. The installation of the HFB produced constraints to the groundwater flow. A stagnant zone of contaminated freshwater floating over the salt wedge in the upper portion of the aquifer is detected downstream of the HFB. This study confirms that the adopted remediation system is efficiently working in the area upstream of the HFB and even downstream in the bottom part of the aquifer. At the same time, it has also confirmed that hot spots are still present in stagnant zones located downstream of the HFB in the upper part of the aquifer, requiring a different approach to accomplish remediation targets. The integrated approach for flow quantification used in this study allows to discriminate the direction and the magnitude of groundwater fluxes near an HFB in a coastal aquifer. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Holocene coastal environmental changes on the periphery of an area of glacio‐isostatic uplift: an example from Scapa Bay,Orkney, UK

The first detailed investigation of a deep, coastal, sedimentary basin in Orkney reveals a complex Holocene history of back‐barrier morphodynamics. At Scapa Bay, the sea flooded a freshwater marsh after ca. 9400 yr BP at ca. ?5.4 m OD. Before ca. 7800 BP, abundant sediment from nearby cliffs was mobilised inland into a series of gravel barriers across the valley mouth. By ca. 7500 BP, direct marine influence was restricted in the back‐barrier area, although saltmarsh persisted until ca. 5900 BP. By then, at least four gravel ridges had enclosed the backing lagoon, where freshwater inputs became dominant. As terrestrial sediments filled the basin, another freshwater marsh developed. The multiple barrier complex demonstrates progradation resulting from continuous sediment supply in a sheltered embayment. The progressively rising height of the barrier crests seawards probably resulted from a combination of factors such as barrier morphodynamics, increased storminess and long‐term rising relative sea levels. The dominant vegetation surrounding Scapa Bay changed from open grassland to scrub ca. 9400 BP, then to deciduous woodland ca. 7800 BP, and to dwarf‐shrub heath ca. 2600 BP, the latter probably a response to a combination of climate change and human activity. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Vertical amplitude reduction of Rayleigh waves by a row of piles in a poroelastic half‐space

A row of rigid piles is addressed as the countermeasures for isolating Rayleigh waves in a poroelastic half‐space. The complex characteristic equations for Rayleigh waves are derived via Biot's theory and their existence conditions are given. The piles are modeled as Euler–Bernoulli beams with longitudinal displacements and the diffracted field by each pile is constructed only with Rayleigh waves. Six infinite linear systems of algebraic equations are obtained in terms of the equilibrium of forces and continuity of displacements at the pile–soil interfaces. The systems are subsequently solved in the complex least‐squares sense. The influence of certain pile and soil characteristics such as the permeability of poroelastic soil, spacing between the piles and length of the piles on the isolating performance of a pile barrier is investigated. Computed results show that the permeability of poroelastic soil displays a significant effect on the vertical amplitude reduction of Rayleigh waves. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical predictions of water–air wave slam using incompressible–compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics

The high-speed impact between a body and water is an important practical problem, whether due to wave impact on a structural deck or wall, or due to a moving body such as a ship or aircraft hitting water. The very high pressures exerted are difficult to predict and the role of air may be significant. In this paper, numerical simulations are undertaken to investigate the impact of a rigid horizontal plate onto a wave crest and, in the limit, onto a flat water surface. A two-phase incompressible–compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method for water and air, respectively, is applied where the water phase imposes kinematics on the air phase at the air–water interface and the air phase imposes pressures on the water at the interface. Results are compared with experimental measurements undertaken using a drop rig positioned over a wave flume so that a horizontal plate impacts the water surface in free flight. Numerical predictions of impact pressure are quite accurate; air is shown to have a significant cushioning effect for impact on to flat water and this reduces for waves as the ratio of wave height to wavelength increases.