An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.     

黄茅海河口湾现代动力地貌体系和冲淤过程分析

1980—1993年对黄茅海河口湾进行沉积物采样和水流测定及水深测量。根据水动力和地形条件，冲淤分析及Mclaren模型研究河口湾的动力地貌体系、冲淤特征和现代沉积物运移。结果表明：（1）水下地形主要为下泄流或上溯流控制的“深槽－槽沟－浅滩－湾口”的动力地貌体系，反映了河口湾“东进西出”的水流格局；（2）整个河口湾以淤积为主，只有崖门深槽有较明显的优势冲刷特征，并随着崖门深槽向海推移和河口湾“东进西出”水动力作用，黄茅海落潮三角洲相应向西南进积；（3）应用Mclaren模型揭示了黄茅海河口湾现代沉积物运移规律，同样反映了河口湾具有“东进西出”的运移趋势。     

黑潮水入侵南海的水文分析──Ⅱ.1994年8—9月期间的观测结果

利用1994年8－9月期间，由台湾海峡两岸的4艘海洋调查船在南海东北部海域所获之CTD和ADCP资料，并结合1992年3月间在同一海域获取的CTD资料及部分历史水文资料，对该区域的海水特性以及黑潮水入侵南海等问题进行了分析探讨。结果表明：调查期间，本海区水团分布与冬末、春初（1992年3月）航次基本相似，即南海和西北太平洋海域的海水结构有着各自相对独立的温、盐度特性。虽发现有黑潮水穿越巴上海峡进入南海，但其势力甚弱。因此，在夏末秋初，黑潮亦无直接的分支深入南海，即使在巴士海峡北端进入台湾海峡的黑潮水，其影响也是十分微弱的。由等密度面、地转流分析和实测ADCP资料显示，在调查海区的东南海域存在一支较强的N向流动。它沿菲律宾西海岸北上，绕过吕宋岛西北角流向东北，在巴上海峡呈现与黑潮水混合的迹象，其水体在冬季明显呈高温、低盐的特性；夏季则为相对低温、低盐。故在冬季的几幅卫星图像上也有较好的体现，很有可能长年存在。     

用新显色剂3-甲氧基-甲亚胺H光度测定海水中的硼

采用新试剂３－甲氧基－甲亚胺Ｈ测定海水中的硼，加入ＥＤＴＡ和酒石酸掩蔽各种干扰离子，不须分离可直接测定，方法简便、快速、准确。     

Structure of Subsurface Intrusion of the Oyashio Water into the Kuroshio Extension and Formation Process of the North Pacific Intermediate Water

In order to understand the actual formation process of the North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW), structure of subsurface intrusions of the Oyashio water and the mixing of the Oyashio and the Kuroshio waters in and around the Kuroshio Extension (KE) were examined on the basis of a synoptic CTD observation carried out in May-June 1992. The fresh Oyashio water in the south of Hokkaido was transported into KE region through the Mixed Water Region (MWR) in the form of subsurface intrusions along two main paths. The one was along the east coast of northern Japan through the First Branch of the Oyashio (FBO) and the other along the eastern face of a warm streamer which connected KE with a warm core ring through the Second Branch of the Oyashio (SBO). The fresh Oyashio water extended southward through FBO strongly mixed with the saline NPIW transported by the Kuroshio in the south of Japan (old NPIW) in and around the warm streamer. On the other hand, the one through SBO well preserved its original properties and extended eastward beyond 150°E along KE with a form of rather narrow band. The intrusion ejected Oyashio water lens with a diameter of 50–60 km southward across KE axis and split northward into the MWR involved in the interaction of KE and a warm core ring, which were supposed to be primary processes of new NPIW formation.     

Species composition and spatial distribution of euphausiids of the yellow sea and relationships with environmental factors

We investigated species composition and spatial distribution of the euphausiid community in the Yellow Sea and identified the relationship with environmental factors (temperature, salinity, chlorophyll a, nitrate, phosphate, and silicate) using bimonthly data from June, 1997 to April, 1998. The environment varied during the sampling period. In warm seasons, thermocline was well developed rendering lower temperature and higher salinity and nutrient concentrations in the bottom layer. During cold seasons the water column was well mixed and no such vertical stratification was noted. Horizontal distribution of temperature, however, differed slightly between near-coast and offshore areas because of the shallow depth of the Yellow Sea, and between southern and northern areas because of the intrusion of water masses such as Yellow Sea Warm Current and Changjiang River Diluted Water. Four euphausiid species were identified:Euphausia pacifica, E. sanzoi, Pseudeuphausia sp. andStylocheron affine. E. sanzoi andS. affine were collected, just one juvenile each, from the southern area in June and December, respectively.Pseudeuphausia sp. were collected in the eastern area all the year round except June.E. pacifica occurred at the whole study area and were the predominant species, representing at least 97.6% of the euphausiid abundance. Further, the distribution pattern of the species was varied in regards to developmental stages (adult, furcilia, calyptopis, egg). From spring to fall,E. pacifica adults were abundant in the central area where the Yellow Sea Bottom Cold Water prevailed. Furcilia and calyptopis extended their distribution into nearly all the study area during the same period. From late fall to winter, adults were found at the near-coastal area with similar pattern for furcilia and calyptopis. The distribution pattern ofE. pacifica was consistent regarding temperature, salinity, and three nutrients during the sampling period, whereas chlorophyll a showed a different pattern according to the developmental stages. The nutrients should indirectly affect via chlorophyll a and phytoplankton concentration. With respect to these results, we presented a scenario about how the environmental factors along with the water current affect the distribution ofE. pacifica in the Yellow Sea.     

Nutrient budgets and trophic state in a hypersaline coastal lagoon: Lagoa de Araruama, Brazil

Lagoa de Araruama in the state of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, is a hypersaline lagoon with salinity varying spatially from 45 to 56. We collected water samples during monthly cruises throughout the lagoon, and along the streams feeding the system, from April 1991 to March 1992. Nutrients and other water quality parameters exhibited great spatial and temporal variations. Mass balance calculations indicate large amounts of anthropogenic nutrient inputs. The data indicate that the lagoon currently is oligotrophic but is in a state of transition to become a mesotrophic system. Molar dissolved inorganic nitrogen:dissolved inorganic phosphorus (DIN/DIP) varied between 2.2:1 and 659:1 with a volume-weighted average of 22:1. The high DIN/DIP ratio contrasts with that found in nearby lagoons, suggesting that phytoplankton primary production is limited by phosphorus in Lagoa de Araruama. The major loss of DIP is apparently driven by biological assimilation and diagenic reactions in the sediments. Calculations indicate that the lagoon is slightly net autotrophic at +0.9 mol C m⁻² yr⁻¹. This suggests that the biomass of the primary producers is restricted by phosphorus availability. Phosphorus retention in the sediment and the hypersaline state of the lagoon prevent changes in autotrophic communities and the formation of eutrophic conditions.     

动力定位系统发展状况及研究方法

动力定位系统（Dynamic Positioning System)是一种闭环的控制系统，其采用推力器来提供抵抗风、浪、流等作用在船上的环境力，从而使船尽可能地保持在海平面上要求的位置上，其定位成本不会随着水深增加而增加，并且操作也比较方便。本文对动力定位系统发展及各组成部分进行了介绍，以期对动力定位系统有个比较完整的认识。     

Dynamic Response Behaviors of Upright Breakwaters Under Breaking Wave Impact

- The dynamic response behaviors of upright breakwaters under broken wave impact are analysed based on the mass-damper-spring dynamic system model. The effects of the mass, damping, stiffness, natural period, and impulse duration (or oscillation period) on the translation, rotation, sliding force, overturning moment, and corresponding dynamic amplifying factors are studied. It is concluded that the ampli-ying factors only depend on the ratio of the system natural period to impulse duration (or oscillation period) under a certain damping ratio. Moreover, the equivalent static approach to breakwater design is also discussed.     

An Experi mental Study on Wave-Induced Dynamic Stresses in Seabed

1 .IntroductionEvery year ,Taiwanis subjectedtotwo or three typhoonintrusions in average which always causedisasters . Most of the disasters which occur around the coastal zone are due to seabed instability andcoastal structure destruction caused bytyphoo…