Longshore Current on an Equilibrium Beach

Natural beaches tend to be concave-up rather than planar and are reasonable to be modeled by an equilibrium beach profile. A governing equation for longshore current on an equilibrium beach is derived and its analytical solution is given in this paper. Through comparisons of the present solution and field data of longshore current for a step-type beach, the present solution is found to have fairly agreeable prediction to longshore current inside the surf zone. The effects of the shape of a concave-up beach and turbulent mixing stress on longshore current inside the surf zone are discussed in the present paper.     

赤道深层射流对深层浮力源响应解之特征的分析

基于赤道深层射流动力模型，研究赤道深层射流对深层浮力源的响应特征，指出线性、连续层化海洋中浮力源驱动下的单一垂直模态建立深层环流的过程等介于线性浅水系统中深水源驱动的深层环流的建立过程。分析赤道深层射流对深层浮力源响应解的某些特征，结果表明，在给定确定波数量值的诸参数下，浮力源在纬向上范围的大小对赤道深层的射流     

关于YZ-Ⅲ型遥测波浪仪浮标的设计

本文论述了YZ-III型遥测波浪仪测波浮标的总体及结构设计。该测波浮标在结构上具有即可定点系留使用,也可以随船使用的特点。垂摆式的自平衡系统,具有独特的结构形式和良好的随动性能。本文还论述了浮标的随波性能及浮标的系留方式。浮标升沉达到随波状态时的周期不大于1.03s。在强流区定点系留浮标时,作者建议采用一种有助于克服强流影响的系留方式。     

厦门港湾沉积物中有机氯农药和多氯联苯的垂直分布特征

从厦门港海区采集两根沉积柱样，研究有机氯农药六六六（ＨＣＨｓ），滴滴涕（ＤＤＴｓ）和多氯联苯（ＰＣＢｓ）在沉积物中的垂直分布，ＨＣＨｓ，ＤＤＴｓ及ＰＣＢｓ含量用ＧＣ法测定，取自厦门港湾口的１号柱样ＨＣＨｓ，ＤＤＴｓ和ＰＣＢｓ的含量范围分别为０．１２～ ０．３２ｎｇ／ｇ，４．６４～１０．５ｎｇ／ｇ和０．０９～０．４６ｎｇ／ｇ取自厦门西港内湾的５号柱样采分别为０．１７～０．３１ｎｇ／ｇ，３．６５     

A Late Winter Hydrography in Hidaka Bay, South of Hokkaido, Japan

Hydrographic observations in Hidaka Bay, south of Hokkaido, Japan were carried out in late winter 1996 and 1997 to examine the spatial distributions and circulation features of two different water masses, i.e., Coastal Oyashio Water (COW) and Tsugaru Warm Water (TWW), and their modifications. It is known that COW is mostly composed of cold and low-salinity water of the melted drift ice coming from the Okhotsk Sea and flows into Hidaka Bay from winter to spring and TWW with high-salinity continuously supplies from the Tsugaru Strait to the North Pacific. Cold surface mixed layers (<26.2σ_θ, 0–100 m depth) were found mainly over the shelf slope, confirming that anti-clockwise flow of COW was formed. TWW was relatively high in salinity and low in potential vorticity, and had some patch-like water masses with a temperature and salinity maximum in the limited area in the further offshore at the deeper density levels of 26.6–26.8σ_θ. The fine structure of vertical temperature and salinity profiles appeared between TWW and COW is an indication of enhanced vertical mixing (double-diffusive mixing), as inferred from the estimated Turner angles. At a mouth of the Tsugaru Strait in late winter 1997, a significant thermohaline front between TWW and the modified COW was formed and a main path of TWW spreaded south along the Sanriku coast, probably as the bottom controlled flow. Hence, the patch-like TWW observed in late winter is isolated from the Tsugaru Warm Current and then rapidly modified due to a diapycnal mixing. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

渤海的潮混合特征及潮汐锋现象

人们对黄海的潮汐锋现象已有一些报道和研究[1～4],但对渤海的潮汐锋现象却没有进行过认真的分析和讨论,迄今只有赵保仁[1]在讨论黄海的潮汐锋时,指出过渤海海峡的潮汐锋现象;而黄大吉等[5]在数值计算渤海的温度变化时也指出在渤海内部存在着潮汐锋现象,但却没有进行深入的分析和给出任何实测证据.本文试图根据方国洪和曹德明最近在渤海取得的潮汐潮流数值计算结果1),计算由Simpson等[6]提出的陆架海的潮混合层化参量,来讨论渤海的潮混合特征;并进一步利用实测水文资料和海面温度的卫星遥感图像来说明渤海潮汐锋的分布和变化特征.     

Circulation and heat budget of the northern Adriatic Sea (Italy) due to a Bora event in January 2001: a numerical model study

The Princeton Ocean Model was implemented to investigate the response of northern Adriatic Sea during the Bora event in January 2001 when strong wind and surface cooling was reported. The model has been run with realistic wind stress, surface heat flux and river runoffs forcings continuously from 1 January 1999 to 31 January 2001. The wind stress and surface heat flux was computed by the bulk parameterization, using the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast analysis fields and the Comprehensive Ocean Atmosphere Data Set cloud data. All the freshwater sources along the Adriatic coastlines were represented by point or line source functions. Open boundary conditions in the Ionian Sea along a latitudinal boundary were nested within a large scale model of the Mediterranean Sea. The numerical study found that, before the Bora event of 13–17 January 2001, the water column of the northern Adriatic Sea was stratified by salinity, and the temperature was already cooler at the surface and over the shallower shelf region. The pre-Bora circulation of the northern Adriatic Sea was relatively weak and baroclinic with maximum surface currents occurred near the Italian coast. During the Bora event, the water column was well mixed in the most of coastal region of the northern Adriatic Sea. The atmospheric cooling produced colder water over the northern and western Adriatic Coast. The circulation of the northern Adriatic Sea was barotropic and dominantly wind driven, with maximum current speed of about 1 m s⁻¹. The numerical study also demonstrated that the Bora event decreased the heat content of the water column with an area averaged value of 205 W m⁻² over the shallow northern shelf. It was concluded that the heat budget of the northern Adriatic Sea during the Bora event was a balance between the surface heat loss, horizontal net heat inflow and resulting heat content decrease. The horizontal advection played a particularly important role in controlling the water temperature change over the shallower northern shelf.     

Rock–water interactions and pollution processes in the volcanic aquifer system of Guadalajara,Mexico, using inverse geochemical modeling

In order to understand and mitigate the deterioration of water quality in the aquifer system underlying Guadalajara metropolitan area, an investigation was performed developing geochemical evolution models for assessment of groundwater chemical processes. The models helped not only to conceptualize the groundwater geochemistry, but also to evaluate the relative influence of anthropogenic inputs and natural sources of salinity to the groundwater. Mixing processes, ion exchange, water–rock–water interactions and nitrate pollution and denitrification were identified and confirmed using mass-balance models constraint by information on hydrogeology, groundwater chemistry, lithology and stability of geochemical phases. The water–rock interactions in the volcanic setting produced a dominant NaHCO₃ water type, followed by NaMgCaHCO₃ and NaCaHCO₃. For geochemical evolution modeling, flow sections were selected representing recharge and non-recharge processes and a variety of mixing conditions. Recharge processes are dominated by dissolution of soil CO₂ gas, calcite, gypsum, albite and biotite, and Ca/Na exchange. Non-recharge processes show that the production of carbonic acid and Ca/Na exchange are decreasing, while other minerals such as halite and amorphous SiO₂ are precipitated. The origin of nitrate pollution in groundwater are fertilizers in rural plots and wastewater and waste disposal in the urban area. This investigation may help water authorities to adequately address and manage groundwater contamination.     

Astronomical-topographic levelling using high-precision astrogeodetic vertical deflections and digital terrain model data

At the beginning of the twenty-first century, a technological change took place in geodetic astronomy by the development of Digital Zenith Camera Systems (DZCS). Such instruments provide vertical deflection data at an angular accuracy level of 0.̋1 and better. Recently, DZCS have been employed for the collection of dense sets of astrogeodetic vertical deflection data in several test areas in Germany with high-resolution digital terrain model (DTM) data (10–50 m resolution) available. These considerable advancements motivate a new analysis of the method of astronomical-topographic levelling, which uses DTM data for the interpolation between the astrogeodetic stations. We present and analyse a least-squares collocation technique that uses DTM data for the accurate interpolation of vertical deflection data. The combination of both data sets allows a precise determination of the gravity field along profiles, even in regions with a rugged topography. The accuracy of the method is studied with particular attention on the density of astrogeodetic stations. The error propagation rule of astronomical levelling is empirically derived. It accounts for the signal omission that increases with the station spacing. In a test area located in the German Alps, the method was successfully applied to the determination of a quasigeoid profile of 23 km length. For a station spacing from a few 100 m to about 2 km, the accuracy of the quasigeoid was found to be about 1–2 mm, which corresponds to a relative accuracy of about 0.05−0.1 ppm. Application examples are given, such as the local and regional validation of gravity field models computed from gravimetric data and the economic gravity field determination in geodetically less covered regions.