Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: Part I temporal and spatial characteristics

Empirical orthogonal functions (EOFs) or principal components were used to extract the significant modes of shoreline variability from several data sets collected at three very different locations. Although EOFs have proven to be a valuable tool in the analysis of nearshore data, most applications have focused on the ability of the technique to describe cross-shore or profile variability. Here however, EOFs were used to help identify the dominant modes of longshore shoreline variability at Duck, North Carolina, the Gold Coast, Australia, and at several locations within the Columbia River Littoral Cell in the U.S. Pacific Northwest. In part one of this analysis, characteristic patterns of shoreline variability identified by the EOF analysis are described in detail. At each site, the dominant modes consisting of the first four eigenfunctions were found to describe nearly 95% of the total shoreline variability. At both Duck and the Gold Coast, several interesting longshore periodic features suggestive of sand waves were identified, while boundary effects related to natural headlands and navigational structures/entrances dominated the Pacific Northwest data sets.     

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.     

我国海水制盐工艺改革的设计研究

从技术上和工艺上的可能性、可行性和合理性，论证了海水制盐工艺改革的必要性，并且提出了实现海水制盐工艺改革的各种设计方案。它对我国的海水制盐工业的发展将具有深远意义。     

3 株深海细菌的生理及分子生物学鉴定

从西菲律宾海底4954 m深的沉积物中分离到一批深海细菌,对其中编号为B2、B5、B6的3株细菌进行了生理、光学显微镜和扫描电镜观察,并且进行了分子水平鉴定。菌落呈圆球形,光滑,3株菌均带有颜色, B6菌呈乳白色, B2和 B5菌分别呈现鲜艳的橙色和红色。扫描电镜观察表明 B2和B6呈杆状,但B6菌外面覆有鞘膜, B5菌呈球状。生理实验表明,3株菌温度生长范围在37℃以下,最适生长温度分别为20、28、28℃,属于耐冷菌范畴。pH耐受范围为6~14,最适pH分别为8、8、12。3株细菌16S rRNA基因序列同源性分析表明,它们分属于芽孢杆菌(Bacillus)、节杆菌(Arthrobacter)、蛋白菌(Acinetobacter)3个不同的菌属。     

太平洋和南极普里兹湾及其邻近海域中微生物量的分布特征

研究了太平洋和南极普里兹湾及其邻近海域细菌数量分布特征,并就其与诸环境因素的影响进行了讨论．结果表明,所调查的太平洋和南极普里兹湾及其邻近海域的细菌数量分布大都处于107～108个／dm3范围之内,发现太平洋中部的细菌数量分布高于其东部和西部,这主要与中部海域合有丰富的生物营养物质有关．由于受到水动力的影响,太平洋某些站位水层（0～50m,500～700m）中出现高细菌量值．发现南极普里兹湾及其邻近海域向外延伸的某些断面的细菌数量有逐渐递增趋势．     

Observations and modelling of the travel time delay and leading negative phase of the 16 September 2015 Illapel,Chile tsunami

The systematic discrepancies in both tsunami arrival time and leading negative phase (LNP) were identified for the recent transoceanic tsunami on 16 September 2015 in Illapel, Chile by examining the wave characteristics from the tsunami records at 21 Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART) sites and 29 coastal tide gauge stations. The results revealed systematic travel time delay of as much as 22 min (approximately 1.7％ of the total travel time) relative to the simulated long waves from the 2015 Chilean tsunami. The delay discrepancy was found to increase with travel time. It was difficult to identify the LNP from the near-shore observation system due to the strong background noise, but the initial negative phase feature became more obvious as the tsunami propagated away from the source area in the deep ocean. We determined that the LNP for the Chilean tsunami had an average duration of 33 min, which was close to the dominant period of the tsunami source. Most of the amplitude ratios to the first elevation phase were approximately 40％, with the largest equivalent to the first positive phase amplitude. We performed numerical analyses by applying the corrected long wave model, which accounted for the effects of seawater density stratification due to compressibility, self-attraction and loading (SAL) of the earth, and wave dispersion compared with observed tsunami waveforms. We attempted to accurately calculate the arrival time and LNP, and to understand how much of a role the physical mechanism played in the discrepancies for the moderate transoceanic tsunami event. The mainly focus of the study is to quantitatively evaluate the contribution of each secondary physical effect to the systematic discrepancies using the corrected shallow water model. Taking all of these effects into consideration, our results demonstrated good agreement between the observed and simulated waveforms. We can conclude that the corrected shallow water model can reduce the tsunami propagation speed and reproduce the LNP, which is observed for tsunamis that have propagated over long distances frequently. The travel time delay between the observed and corrected simulated waveforms is reduced to <8 min and the amplitude discrepancy between them was also markedly diminished. The incorporated effects amounted to approximately 78％ of the travel time delay correction, with seawater density stratification, SAL, and Boussinesq dispersion contributing approximately 39％, 21％, and 18％, respectively. The simulated results showed that the elastic loading and Boussinesq dispersion not only affected travel time but also changed the simulated waveforms for this event. In contrast, the seawater stratification only reduced the tsunami speed, whereas the earth's elasticity loading was responsible for LNP due to the depression of the seafloor surrounding additional tsunami loading at far-field stations. This study revealed that the traditional shallow water model has inherent defects in estimating tsunami arrival, and the leading negative phase of a tsunami is a typical recognizable feature of a moderately strong transoceanic tsunami. These results also support previous theory and can help to explain the observed discrepancies.     

Meiobenthos in estuary part of ha long bay (gulf of tonkin, south china sea, vietnam)

The distribution of the taxonomical composition and the density of meiobenthos depending on some factors of environment has been studied in bottom sediments of the northern estuary part of Ha Long Bay (Cua Luc estuary). The basic factor of influence on meiobenthic community structure was the granulometric composition of sediment. The greatest taxonomic diversity is noted in the silted sands, lowest — in the silty sediments. The density of meiobenthic community was higher in the silty sediments. Slightly expressed correlation between the density of nematodes and the percentage of silty particles in the sediments is detected (Spearman rank correlation coefficient was 0.49±0.21, p=0.035). The nematodes were dominant at all stations. In total, representatives of 66 species of nematodes belonging to 17 families and 52 genera were identified.     

Formation of saddle dolomites in Upper Cambrian carbonates, western Tarim Basin (northwest China): Implications for fault-related fluid flow

The saddle dolomites occur more intensely in cores closely to fault than that in cores far away from the fault in Upper Cambrian carbonate of western Tarim basin, suggesting that formation of the saddle dolomites is likely related to fault-controlled fluid flow. They partially fill in fractures and vugs of replacement dolomite. The saddle dolomites exhibit complex internal textures, commonly consisting of core and cortex. In comparison with the matrix dolomites, the saddle dolomites show lower Sr-content and ⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr ratios, higher Fe- and Mn-content, and more negative δ¹⁸O values. Combined with high Th (100–130 °C) of primary fluid inclusions, it is suggested that the saddle dolomites precipitated from hydrothermal fluid derived from the deep evaporite-bearing Middle Cambrian strata, and the magnesium source may be due to dissolution of host dolomite during hydrothermal fluid migration. Fault activity resulted in petrographic and geochemical difference of the core and cortex of the saddle dolomites. The cores precipitated from the formation water mixed by deep brines at the early stage of fault activity, and the cortexes precipitated from the deep fluid with higher temperatures through the Middle Cambrian later. In summary, the formation of the saddle dolomites implies a hydrothermal fluid event related to fault activity, which also resulted in high porosity in Upper Cambrian carbonate in western Tarim Basin.     

The Optimal Design of TMD for Offshore Structures

This paper presents the optimal design procedure of Tuned Mass Damper(TMD)for re-ducing vibration of an actual steel jacket offshore platform excited by random wave loading.In this study,a frequency domain is taken.The force on the structure is determined by use of the linearized Morisonequation for an input Power Spectral Density(PSD)of wave elevation.The sensitivity of optimum valuesof TMD to characteristic parameters of random wave spectrum is analyzed.An optimized TMD designfor the modeled platform is given based on design conditions and the findings of the study.     

海上风电升压站平台高程确定标准的合理性研究

为保证海上风电升压电站建设的经济合理与安全可靠,合理确定海上风电升压电站平台高程十分必要。文中从波浪与潮位的遭遇组合、最大波高取值与现行相关标准的比较、最大波峰高度计算的合理性等方面,全面分析了确定海上风电升压站平台高程各组成项取值标准的合理性,研究认为现行标准明显偏高。建议海上升压站平台底部高程按"100年一遇极端高水位+重现期50年波列累积频率1%的最大波峰高度+安全超高"确定。结合工程实例计算分析,按本文建议可使海上升压站平台高程明显降低,从而节省工程造价,还可减轻升压站工程对周边风机的遮蔽影响,以达到多发电量的效果。