Long-Period Distribution of Wave Heights and Its Application

This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.     

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。     

Application of the Single-Bubble Airgun Technique for OBS-Data Acquisition Across the Jan Mayen Ridge,North Atlantic

A 140 km long wide-angle seismic profile has been acquired by use of 6 Ocean Bottom Seismographs across the Jan Mayen Ridge, North Atlantic. The profile was acquired twice; once with a traditionally tuned standard source and secondly with a somewhat smaller source tuned on the first bubble pulse. Analysis of the frequency content of the data reveals that the single-bubble source within the 10-15 Hz frequency range generates a signal with a level about 5 db above that of the standard source. These differences can partly be related to differences in airgun depth. The higher output level for these frequencies enables the single-bubble source to resolve intra-crustal structures with a higher degree of certainty, when compared to the data acquired by use of the standard source array. The standard source seems to generate slightly more energy for frequencies around 6 Hz, probably due to the use of a large 1200 in/sup3 gun in this array. These low frequencies a re of importance for mapping of lower crustal and upper mantle structures, and it is recommended that this is taken into account when seismic sources for mapping of deep crustal and upper mantle structures are designed.     

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.     

海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究

本文通过对海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究分析，着重研究了在规则波中平台沉垫总体波浪载荷和局部水动压力分布的情况，定性地考察了非线性影响、浅水影响的重要性，为今后波浪理论中粘性的引入，进而考虑粘性与波浪运动的非线性相互干扰提供实测依据     

JONSWAP谱和N谱的几个对应特征量间的关系

研究了风浪频谱ＪＯＮＳＷＡＰ谱的峰度因子γ、尖度因子Ｐｊ和Ｎ谱尖度因子ＰＮ，参变量ｐ，ｑ间的关系；并在此关系上给出了由这两种谱计算的几个对应参量间的关系，在使用不同的谱形进行特征量的计算时，应注意不同频谱间的成长因子致性，以免引起计算结果的错误。     

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

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Stability Design System of Submarine Pipelines

This paper introduces a stability design system of submarine pipelines. The system can provide a reasonable design procedure for users with reference to domestic and foreign methods and in the light of home engineering experience.     

确定连续系统参数的时域方法

提出一种确定连续系统参数的时域方法。该方法利用方波输入和系统稳定性，离析出输出采样信号与结构参数的内在联系，推导出确定连续系统结构参数的算法．指出该算法与辨识方法相结合，可实现对含随机干扰的连续系统结构参数的估计．