Effect of source-varying input data on erosion potential model performance

This paper examines the performance of the Erosion Potential Method (EPM or Gavrilovi?) and the model response to input data variations caused by choosing different sources of information for the same parameter. The research presented addresses the input data uncertainty via an analysis of the two model input parameters (the soil protection coefficient and the soil erodibility coefficient). The parameter uncertainty analysis is performed following two different approaches: uncertainty analyses of both the selected sample size and the entire population are conducted for an erosion assessment case study of the Dubra?ina River catchment, Croatia. The analysis indicated that, when changing the data source, significant changes in the model outcome values can occur (up to 47% for this case study). Future method modifications should consider the mitigation of these two parameters by potentially making structural changes in the model and therefore moderating the effect.     

A wave-flume study of scour at a pile breakwater: Solitary waves

Understanding the sediment transport and the resulting scour around coastal structures such as pile breakwaters under local extreme wave conditions is important for the foundation safety of various coastal structures. This study reports a wave-flume experiment investigating the scour induced by solitary waves at a pile breakwater, which consists of a row of closely spaced large piles. A wave blacking gate with a simple operation procedure in the experiment was designed to eliminate possible multiple reflections of the solitary wave inside the flume. An underwater laser scanner and a point probe were used in combination to provide high-resolution data of the bed profile around the pile breakwater. Effects of incident wave height and local water depth on the maximum scour depth, the maximum deposition height and the total scour and deposition volumes were examined. An existing empirical formula describing the evolution of the scour at a single pile in current or waves was extended to describe the scour at the pile breakwater under the action of multiple solitary waves, and new empirical coefficients were obtained by fitting the formula to the new experimental data to estimate the equilibrium scour depth. It appears that the maximum scour depth and the total scour volume are two reliable quantities for validation of numerical models developed for the scour around pile breakwaters under highly nonlinear wave conditions.     

Numerical investigation of bore hole filling volume in a coastal area

Tidal energy is a promising way to reduce the carbon fossil energy. Installing tidal converters remains difficult particularly due to the bore hole filling by drill residuals and ambient sediments. To fix this issue, we perform a coupling between a coastal circulation model and a discrete element model, with an application to Alderney Race, and considering spherical particles. The coupled model is firstly described, validated and then used to investigate the parameters controlling the filling volume of monopile and tripod technologies. The results are analysed for different disposition of residuals and initial current direction and intensity. We show that: the distance between the bore hole centre and the residuals is the key parameter controlling the filling by drill residuals; the current direction plays a negligible role in monopile while this distance remains smaller than 20 m; the filling of tripod is strongly influenced by current effects and seabed morphology. Impacts of bed roughness (modelled by steady spherical particles inlaying in the seabed) and ambient sediments are quantified and discussed. Interactions between moving particles and bottom roughness lead to a slight increase of the filling while the impact of ambient sediments strongly depends on seabed morphology and current effects.     

Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Rate for a Typical Pocket Beach Along West Coast of India

Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Rate (LSTR) in the littoral zone is essential for managing and developing any coastal zone. Numerical models are powerful tool to understand and investigate various processes responsible for LSTR in a systematic manner since direct measurement of LSTR is a difficult task. A one dimensional LITDRIFT model was implemented along the Vengurla coast for estimation of LSTR and to analyze the sensitivity of each input parameters towards the computation of LSTR. Major input parameters required for the estimation of LSTR are nearshore wave climate, bathymetry, and sediment characteristics. The nearshore wave data at a depth of 15 m were collected using wave rider buoy in 2015 is used in the present study. Field observations were carried out to survey the regional bathymetry and sediment characteristics. Annual net LSTR along Vengurala coast is relatively less and varies from ?7778 to ?9015 m³ with an average of ?8511 m³. The net direction of LSTR is towards south and gross LSTR is 1.18 × 10⁵ m³/year. The LSTR reveals more sensitivity to coastline orientation and wave direction. A 1° changes in coastline angle and wave direction causes approximately 3000 m³/month difference in LSTR. Moreover, wave height, wave period, and bed roughness has an important role for controlling LSTR. The model results help to identify the role of each parameter contributing towards LSTR estimation and a similar model approach can be applied to other coasts for estimating LSTR in an accurate way.     

2016年夏季舟山近岸海域底栖生物调查与研究

底栖生物是海洋环境质量的重要指标。2016年夏季对舟山近岸海域37个站位的底栖生物进行调查,此次调查共鉴定出底栖生物45种,平均栖息密度为41 ind/m2,平均生物量为3.92 g/m2,底栖生物的栖息密度和生物量基本上由西向东逐渐升高。底栖生物的种类、密度、生物量、多样性指数与水深及水质中的盐度、pH、悬浮物、总磷、总氮呈弱或中等程度相关,与沉积物中重金属（铜、锌、铅、镉、铬、总汞）、砷、有机碳呈弱或中等程度的相关性,尤其与镉含量的相关性最为明显。由ABC曲线分析可知,该调查海域底栖生物受到一定程度的扰动。与2005年该海域调查结果比较表明,该海域底栖生物的多样性指数平均值较2005年略有降低,平均生物量较2005年降低,但平均密度较2005年升高。此次调查出现无底栖生物站位所占的比例较2005年上升。研究表明,2016年舟山海域海洋环境质量状况劣于2005年,应加强海洋环境监测与治理。     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

Hybrid sediment gravity flow deposits – Classification, origin and significance

The deposits of subaqueous sediment gravity flows can show evidence for abrupt and/or progressive changes in flow behaviour making them hard to ascribe to a single flow type (e.g. turbidity currents, debris flows). Those showing evidence for transformation from poorly cohesive and essentially turbulent flows to increasingly cohesive deposition with suppressed turbulence ‘at a point’ are particularly common. They are here grouped as hybrid sediment gravity flow deposits and are recognised as key components in the lateral and distal reaches of many deep-water fan and basin plain sheet systems. Hybrid event beds contain up to five internal divisions: argillaceous and commonly mud clast-bearing sandstones (linked debrite, H3) overlie either banded sandstones (transitional flow deposits, H2) and/or structureless sandstones (high-density turbidity currents, H1), recording longitudinal and/or lateral heterogeneity in flow structure and the development of turbulent, transitional and laminar flow behaviour in different parts of the same flow. Many hybrid event beds are capped by a relatively thin, well-structured and graded sand–mud couplet (trailing low-density turbulent cloud H4 and mud suspension fallout H5). Progressive bed aggradation results in the deposits of the different flow components stacked vertically in the final bed. Variable vertical bed character is related to the style of up-dip flow transformations, the distance over which the flows can evolve and partition into rheological distinct sections, the extent to which different flow components mutually interact, and the rate at which the flows decelerate, reflecting position (lateral versus distal) and gradient changes. Hybrid beds may inherit their structure from the original failure, with turbidity currents outpacing debris flows from which they formed via partial flow transformation. Alternatively, they may form where sand-bearing turbidity currents erode sufficient substrate to force transformation of a section of the current to form a linked debris flow. The incorporation of mud clasts, their segregation in near-bed layers and their disintegration to produce clays that can dampen turbulence are inferred to be key steps in the generation of many hybrid flow deposits. The occurrence of such beds may therefore identify the presence of non-equilibrium slopes up-dip that were steep enough to promote significant flow incision. Where hybrid event beds dominate the entire distal fan stratigraphy, this implies either the system was continually out of grade in order to freight the flows with mud clasts and clays, or the failure mechanism and transport path repeatedly allowed transmission of components of the initial slumps distally. Where hybrid beds are restricted to sections representing fan initiation, or occur more sporadically within the fan deposits, this could indicate shorter episodes of disequilibrium, due to an initial phase of slope re-adjustment, or intermittent tectonically or gravity-driven surface deformation or supply variations. Alternatively, changes between conventional and hybrid event beds may record changes in the flow generation mechanism through time. Thus the vertical distribution of hybrid event beds may be diagnostic of the wider evolution of the fan systems that host them.     

Sediment deposition in the northern basins of the North Atlantic and characteristic variations in shelf sedimentation along the East Greenland margin

New seismic data off East Greenland were acquired in the summer of 2002, between 77°N and 81°N, north of the Greenland Fracture zone. The data were combined with results from the Greenland Basin and ODP site 909, and indicate a pronounced middle Miocene unconformity within the deep sea basins between 72°N and 81°N. Seismic unit NA-1 consists of sediments older than middle Miocene age and unit NA-2 contains sediments younger than the middle Miocene. Classification of a thinly bedded succession in the Molloy Basin resulted in a subdivision into four units (unit I, unit II, unit IIIA and unit IIIB). A comparison of volume estimations and sediment thickness maps between 72°N and 81°N indicates differences in sediment accumulation in the Greenland, Boreas and Molloy basins. Important controls on the variation of accumulation included different opening times of the basins, as well as tectonic conditions and varying sources of sediment transport.Due to prominent basement structures and the varying reflection character of the sediments along the entire East Greenland margin, we defined an age model of shelf sediments on the basis of similar sediment deposit geometry and known results from other regions. The seismic sequences on the shelf up to an age of middle Miocene are divided into three sub-units along the East Greenland margin: middle Miocene–middle late Miocene (SU-3), middle late Miocene–Pleistocene (SU-2), Pleistocene (SU-1). The differences in the geometry of the sequences show more ice stream related sedimentation between 72°N and 77°N and more ice sheet related sedimentation north of 78°N. The region south of 68°N is dominated by more aggradational sedimentary strata so that a glacio-fluvial drainage seems the main transport mechanism. Due to the Greenland Inland–ice borderlines, we assume the glaciers between the Scoresby Sund and 68°N did not reach the shelf break. A first comparison of the sediment structure of the Northeast Greenland margin with the Southeast Greenland margin made it possible to demonstrate significant differences in sedimentation along this margin.     

Origins and maturity of organic matter in mid-Cretaceous black shales from ODP Site 1138 on the Kerguelen Plateau

We have conducted elemental, isotopic, and Rock-Eval analyses of Cenomanian–Santonian sediment samples from ODP Site 1138 in the southern Indian Ocean to assess the origin and thermal maturity of organic matter in mid-Cretaceous black shales found at this high-latitude location. Total organic carbon (TOC) concentrations range between 1 and 20 wt% in black to medium-gray sediments deposited around the Cenomanian–Turonian boundary. Results of Rock-Eval pyrolysis indicate that the organic matter is algal Type II material that has experienced modest alteration. Important contributions of nitrogen-fixing bacteria to the amplified production of organic matter implied by the high TOC concentrations is recorded in δ¹⁵N values between −5 and 1‰, and the existence of a near-surface intensified oxygen minimum zone that favored organic carbon preservation is implied by TOC/TN ratios between 20 and 40. In contrast to the marine nature of the organic matter in the Cenomanian–Turonian boundary section, deeper sediments at Site 1138 contain evidence of contributions land-derived organic matter that implies the former presence of forests on the Kerguelen Plateau until the earliest Cenomanian.     

Dynamics of particle export on the Northwest Atlantic margin

The Northwest Atlantic margin is characterized by high biological productivity in shelf and slope surface waters. In addition to carbon supply to underlying sediments, the persistent, intermediate depth nepheloid layers emanating from the continental shelves, and bottom nepheloid layers maintained by strong bottom currents associated with the southward flowing Deep Western Boundary Current (DWBC), provide conduits for export of organic carbon over the margin and/or to the interior ocean. As a part of a project to understand dynamics of particulate organic carbon (POC) cycling in this region, we examined the bulk and molecular properties of time-series sediment trap samples obtained at 968 m, 1976 m, and 2938 m depths from a bottom-tethered mooring on the New England slope (water depth, 2988 m). Frequent occurrences of higher fluxes in deep relative to shallower sediment traps and low Δ¹⁴C values of sinking POC together provide strong evidence for significant lateral transport of aged organic matter over the margin. Comparison of biogeochemical properties such as aluminum concentration and flux, and iron concentration between samples intercepted at different depths shows that particles collected by the deepest trap had more complex sources than the shallower ones. These data also suggest that at least two modes of lateral transport exist over the New England margin. Based on radiocarbon mass balance, about 30% (±10%) of sinking POC in all sediment traps is estimated to be derived from lateral transport of resuspended sediment. A strong correlation between Δ¹⁴C values and aluminum concentrations suggests that the aged organic matter is associated with lithogenic particles. Our results suggest that lateral transport of organic matter, particularly that resulting from sediment resuspension, should be considered in addition to vertical supply of organic matter derived from primary production, in order to understand carbon cycling and export over continental margins.