Vertical variations of wave-induced radiation stress tensor

INTRODUcrIONThe concept of radiation stress was deve1oPed by tonguet--Higgins and Stewart (1964 ),who intreduced the definition of radiation stress as the excess mornentum due to the presence ofwaves, on the basis of time-averaged laws of Newtonian fluid mechanics and the assmption ofa unifOrm velocity distribution over depth. Subequently, the theory has been applied success-fully in the investigation of phenomena such as wave set-up and set--down (Bowen et al.,l968), longshore currents …     

Wave Loads and Protective Techniques of An On-Shore Wave Power Device

In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec     

Effect of Berm Width and Elevation on Irregular Wave Run-Up

This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.     

Numerical Analysis of Wave Forces on Arbitrarily Shaped Multi-Pillars Over Varying Topography

The modified hybrid element method (MHEM) is utilized to predict and analyze wave forces on arbitrarily shaped multiple bodies. This method can be applied to waves of all water depths, i. e. shallow, intermediate, and deep waters, on slowly varying seabed. The MHEM employs the ICCG method to save CPU and storage, thus the computation of wave forces for large multi-body systems can be carried out on microcomputers. Numerical results of the present method are compared with experimental data and other solutions. It is shown that the MHEM provides more accurate solutions of the wave forces than other numerical methods do. Therefore, the methodology presented herein can be used in the design of coastal and ocean structures.     

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible obtained from simulated extinction tests and mean wave drift forces

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible drilling platform was obtained from numerical extinction tests simulated in still water and in regular waves and from mean wave drift forces calculated at zero forward speed. The influence of drag forces was represented by the modified Morison equation. The platform as used for the 18th ITTC Comparative Mooring Study was analyzed in irregular beam waves. The computed time series of sway as well as the corresponding sway response spectrum compared favourably with model test measurements, demonstrating that this procedure to determine low-frequency damping can be effective.     

Microbial Diversity in Nankai Trough Sediments at a Depth of 3,843 m

Dense populations of bivalves, primarily Calyptogena sp., were observed at cold seeps of the Nankai Trough. Bacterial input to the sediment was estimated through determination of phospholipid ester-linked fatty acid (PLFA) and DNA profiles. Results indicated a bacterial biomass of 10⁹ cells (g dry wt)^-1 while individual fatty acid profiles revealed a predominance of monounsaturated fatty acids, mainly 18:1 isomers. The presence of these fatty acids can be interpreted to reflect a response to low temperature and a predominance of psychrophilic bacteria. DNA fragments encoding bacterial ribosomal RNA small-subunit sequences (16S rDNA) were amplified by the polymerase chain reaction method using DNA extracted directly from the sediment samples. From the sequencing results, at least 19 kinds of bacterial 16S rDNAs related to mostly the Proteobacteria and a few gram-positive bacteria were identified. These results suggest that the bacterial community in the Nankai Trough sediments consists of mainly bacteria belonging to the Proteobacteria , , and subdivisions. Bacteria belonging to the and subdivisions, which are known to include epibiont and sulfate reducing bacteria, respectively, were mostly detected in the sediment obtained from inside the area of the Calyptogena community, and the -Proteobacteria may function to supply reduced sulfur to bacterial endosymbionts of Calyptogena.     

互花米草及其对海岸的防护作用

本文论述了互花米草在滩涂中种植的时间、种植的方法及其生长的适应性。文中着重讨论互花米草在海岸工程中防浪和消浪能力。与工程护岸比较，互花米草护岸是最经济、合理和有效的。通过本文的讨论为今后利用互花米草进行海岸防护提供依据     

Gravity torques for surface waves

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.     

牙鲆种群动态及其资源管理

本文根据1980—1986年间鱼类生物学参数测定,结合体长分布资料的模拟分析,研究黄、渤海区牙鲆种群年龄结构、死亡动态以及在不同年龄和死亡率条件下世代资源生物量变化的规律。模型分析结果表明,当F=1.0和t_c=6.0a时,单位补充量最大群体产量为1492g。由此认为,现阶段牙鲆资源利用的最佳策略是通过增殖放流,增加资源补充;同时应适当控制捕捞压力,减少渔具对幼鱼资源的破坏并增设繁殖保护区,以追求最大持续产量。     

The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.