Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: Part I temporal and spatial characteristics

Empirical orthogonal functions (EOFs) or principal components were used to extract the significant modes of shoreline variability from several data sets collected at three very different locations. Although EOFs have proven to be a valuable tool in the analysis of nearshore data, most applications have focused on the ability of the technique to describe cross-shore or profile variability. Here however, EOFs were used to help identify the dominant modes of longshore shoreline variability at Duck, North Carolina, the Gold Coast, Australia, and at several locations within the Columbia River Littoral Cell in the U.S. Pacific Northwest. In part one of this analysis, characteristic patterns of shoreline variability identified by the EOF analysis are described in detail. At each site, the dominant modes consisting of the first four eigenfunctions were found to describe nearly 95% of the total shoreline variability. At both Duck and the Gold Coast, several interesting longshore periodic features suggestive of sand waves were identified, while boundary effects related to natural headlands and navigational structures/entrances dominated the Pacific Northwest data sets.     

Time domain modelling of the transient asymmetric flooding of Ro-Ro ships

This work aims at contributing to improve knowledge on transient asymmetric flooding through theoretical and experimental research. First, a time domain theoretical model of ship motions and flooding is described. Results from experimental work are presented evidencing that transient asymmetric flooding may cause the capsizing of a Ro-Ro shaped barge. The theoretical model is used to predict the capsize of the Ro-Ro shaped barge. Reasonable agreement between experimental and theoretical results was found. Finally, a review of the European Gateway accident is given and the theoretical model is applied to the study of this type of accident. The conclusion is that this theoretical model, together with an accurate modelling of the flooding of machinery compartments, reproduces successfully the capsizing of the European Gateway due to transient asymmetric flooding. Therefore, the internal arrangement of Ro-Ro ships should be carefully studied at the design stage in order to avoid this phenomenon.     

软土海岸地区测量控制点标志的设立

分析了软土、湿地、滩涂地区特殊地理环境对测量控制点的影响;主要探讨了此类地区控制点标志的设计、施工。借助于建筑桩基技术和道桥施工方法,首次成功实现了某三角洲湿地滩涂地区统一布网。几年来,结合滩涂湿地测量、海岸防护和滩涂开发工程对部分控制点进行了初步检测,给出了部分检测数据。应用和检测均表明:桩基标石可较好地解决软土、湿地、滩涂地区控制点布设难题,显著提高软土海岸地区测量控制点标志的稳固性,从而延长控制网的可使用期。     

Stability of Temperature and Conductivity Sensors of Argo Profiling Floats

After recalibration of the temperature and conductivity sensors of three Argo profiling floats recovered after operations for four to nine months, the results indicate that the floats basically showed no significant drift, either in temperature or salinity, and adequately fulfilled the accuracy requirement of the Argo project (0.005°C for temperature and 0.01 psu for salinity). Only the third float showed a significant offset in salinity of about −0.02 psu, as expected from comparison between the float data and the shipboard conductivity-temperature-depth data. This offset was caused by the operational error of the PROVOR-type float, in which the surface water was pumped immediately after the launch, fouling the conductivity sensor cell. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Experimental Study on Stability of Breakwaters with Penetrating Box Foundations

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黄河尾闾河道1996年改道的意义及黄河三角洲演化趋势

现代黄河三角洲由几个亚三角洲组成。 1 85 5 -1 93 4年 ,形成了以宁海为顶点的第一亚三角洲 ;1 93 4-1 996年 ,三角洲冲积扇顶点进一步下移 ,形成了以渔洼为顶点的第二亚三角洲。最近的一次改道是在 1 996年 6月 ,改道后的河流沿清水沟流路的清 8剖面附近东流入海。这次改道可能是第三亚三角洲形成的开始。以后数十年内的黄河尾闾摆动将在清 8剖面附近进行。虽然人类活动将对三角洲的发展演化产生越来越明显的影响 ,但这些亚三角洲的发育演化仍有明显的规律性     

复杂网络河的数值模拟

依据复杂网络河的特点及其内在联系，本文建立了其特征矩阵及由Newton-Raphson格式表述的隐式圣－维南差分方程组的系数矩阵，经输入边界条件及解方程组，可得到不同各支段上，下游端点上的水位和流量值。     

厄尔尼诺现象和浙江近海鲐鲹鱼渔获量变化关系──长江口ENSO渔场学问题之二

本文研究浙江近海1970年到1992年鲐鱼渔获量变化与Elnino现象的关系，结合捕捞强度，长江中下游汛期（4—9月）降水量距平年际变化综合分析，探讨浙江近海鲐鱼渔获量变动规律，为合理开发渔业资源提供科学依据。     

台风“灿鸿”对长江口外海域悬浮体分布的影响

台风作为事件性的强动力因素,其对河口海域沉积环境的影响目前研究较少,开展典型台风事件对长江口外海域悬浮体分布的影响研究对于深入理解长江径流挟带陆源物质向东海陆架扩散机制等具有重要意义。利用2015年09号台风"灿鸿"过境前后长江口外海域现场调查数据,分析台风前后长江口外水体结构和悬浮体粒度分布变化,结合同期环境观测数据与开源数据,阐明台风对河口外海域悬浮体分布的影响机制。结果表明:长江口外海域悬浮体中细颗粒组分(≤ 128μm)主要为无机矿物颗粒,而粗颗粒组分(>128μm)主要是生源有机颗粒。生源有机粗颗粒主要分布于中上层水体,而无机细颗粒主要分布于底层水体,使得长江口外海域悬浮体平均粒径分布呈双层结构。台风前后悬浮体粒度分布变化反映了台风对长江口外海域物理和生物过程的双重影响,其中物理过程主要影响无机细颗粒分布变化,生物过程主要影响有机粗颗粒。台风期间强烈的偏北风使得长江冲淡水在口门外海域由东北输运转为往东输运,与长江冲淡水输运方向一致的表层无机细颗粒在台风后输运方向同样往东。另外,台风作用在河口区产生的下降流将12250-4站位底部再悬浮的泥质沉积物向东搬运至12300-4站,导致12300-4站底层悬浮体浓度增加、粒度变细。台风过境还造成长江口外海域初级生产力提高,而浮游植物生长对悬浮体中有机粗颗粒的形成有促进作用,使得口门外海域上层水体中有机粗颗粒体积浓度升高。长江口外海域由于台风过境导致悬浮体中无机细颗粒和生源有机颗粒含量均增加,使得其平均粒径整体变化不大。     

白云凹陷地球物理场及深部结构特征

珠江口盆地白云凹陷是南海最具代表性的第三系深水陆坡沉积区。以穿过白云凹陷中部的一条深反射地震剖面(14s)为研究基础，采用综合地球物理研究方法分析了该区地球物理场特征，根据重力异常平面等值线勾画了白云凹陷的形态，并提取该测线相对应的重磁剖面数据，利用重磁资料和地震剖面进行了综合反演。以深剖面地震资料建立了地质模型，利用所得的重力数据进行了研究深部结构的正演拟合，实测与计算值拟合较好，支持中生代俯冲洋壳存在的观点；同时结合地震资料对深部结构进行了分析，该区莫霍面由陆向海抬升，呈阶梯状变化，地壳厚度逐渐减薄，具有大陆边缘陆壳向洋壳过渡的特征。根据地质模型还进行了变密度综合反演拟合来分析基底岩性特征，该区基底主要为中酸性岩浆岩，部分为变质岩和基性火山岩，岩石密度由陆向洋逐渐减小，磁性体分布不均。