Internal characteristics and numerical analysis of plunging breaker on a slope

Many investigations about the direct measurements of velocities to clarify the internal mechanism of the breaker have been carried out as a result of recent progress in the measuring techniques.This research attempts to clarify the breaking wave transformation system on a slope by an experiment and numerical analysis. In an experiment, the velocities in the surf zone were measured directly using an electromagnetic current meter, and the space distribution characteristic of the vorticity ω = (∂u/∂y − ∂u/∂x) and the skewness γ = (∂u/∂y + ∂u/∂x) were examined. Also, occurrence situations of the vortices at the time of water mass inrush were measured by video tape recorder (VTR) image processing. However, because the breaker is a violent phenomenon that is entrained with plentiful bubbles, the extent to which we can clarify breaker transformation in experiments is limited. Numerical simulations are substituted for experiments as a method to clarify breaker transformation.In numerical analysis, finite amplitude wave analysis based on the potential theory (non-viscous fluid) is possible before wave breaking; however, the analysis must take into account the viscous fluid after breaking. So, we use the Reynolds equations to develop a numerical simulation system of the breaker transformation on a sloping bottom. The numerical energy dissipation model of the breaker was compared to the experimental results, and a modified Simplified Marker and Cell (SMAC) method is presented. The internal characteristics of the breaker transformation are described using application examples.     

Effects of tidal currents on nonlinear internal solitary waves in the South China Sea

The propagation and fission process of internal solitary waves (ISWs) with amplitudes of about 170 m are simulated in the northeast of the South China Sea (NSCS) by using the generalized Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation under continuous stratification. More attention is paid to the effects of the ebb and flood background currents on the fission process of ISWs. This kind of background current is provided by the composed results simulated in terms of monthly mean baroclinic circulation and barotropic tidal current. It is found that the obtained relation of the number of fission solitons to the water depth and stratification is roughly in accordance with the fission law derived by Djordjevic and Redekopp in 1978; however, there exists obvious difference between the effects of the ebb and flood background currents on the wave-lengths of fission solitons (defined as the distance between two neighboring peaks of ISWs). The difference in nonlinearity coefficient α between the ebb and flood background currents is a main cause for the different wave-lengths of fission solitons.     

Spatio-temporal distribution of dissolved sulfide in China marginal seas

With sulfide increasingly recognized as an important parameter to assess the oxidation-reduction level in aqueous environment, research on its geochemical behavior is becoming important. Water samples collected in Bohai Sea(1–19 August, 2010), Yellow Sea(20–30 November, 2010) and East China Sea(3–17 June, 2010 and 1–10 November, 2010) were used to determine the occurrence and distribution of dissolved sulfide by methylene blue spectrophotometric method. Results show that:(1) horizontally, concentration of dissolved sulfide significantly varied from the coastal region to the open sea and profoundly influenced by physical processes. High values occurred in the river-sea boundary zone "marginal filter" due to rich riverine input, frequent upwelling and active exchange in shelf edge. Terrestrial input from adjacent rivers and the current cycling contributed to the high sulfide appeared in western Bohai Sea, eastern Shandong Peninsula, and northeast of Changjiang(Yangtze) River estuary. Especially, relative higher sulfide values occurred in Yellow Sea, which is consistent with the variation of salinity largely due to the hydrodynamic feature;(2) vertically, measurement of dissolved sulfide in bottom water was higher and more variable than that in surface water caused by the wind-induced resuspension and dissimilatory sulfate reduction. Moreover, nutrient-type profile clearly identified that oxidation plays a major role in the biogeochemistry cycle of sulfide in water;(3) seasonally, investigation for East China Sea in June and November reflected seasonal variation of Changjiang River Diluted Water, Kuroshio Current, and Taiwan Warm Current. Concentration in June was much higher than that sampled in November at most stations. Mean concentration of dissolved sulfide varied seasonally from 2.26 μg/L(June) to 1.16 μg/L(November) in surface and 3.00 μg/L(June) to 1.56 μg/L(November) in bottom. Progress in the field is slow and more effort is needed to ensure the accuracy and reliability of determination and estimate the natural or anthropogenic contribution of dissolved sulfide in ecosystems.     

关于海洋中的正压流和斜压流问题的讨论

关于海洋中的正压流和斜坛流的概念，目前存在着３种不同的提法．本文首先分别简述它们在定义上的差别，然后对３种定义在理解海流性质问题上的长、短处加以评述。一些理论物理海洋学家依据地转关系式，把与海面倾斜相连系的流视为正压流部分，而与密度不均匀性有关的视为斜压流部分。笔者认为这种定义在物理概念上是清楚，在实际应用中是方便，因此在讨论海流性质时最好采用这种观点。     

潮流计算中特殊地形的数值处理

旨在提高模拟海域潮流计算的分辨率,着重研究在计算垵中存在宽度小于一个网格步长的防波堤、狭长岛屿以及小于一个网格步长的港口口门、防波堤开口等特殊地形的数值处理方法。以连云港西大堤工程为例,进行了数值计算,取得了满意的结果。     

Drifter observations of the Gulf of Maine Coastal Current

Two-hundred and twenty seven satellite-tracked drifters were deployed in the Gulf of Maine (GoM) from 1988 to 2007, primarily during spring and summer. The archive of tracks includes over 100,000 km logged thus far. Statistics such as transit times, mean velocities, response to wind events, and preferred pathways are compiled for various areas of the coastal GoM. We compare Lagrangian flow with Eulerian estimates from nearby moorings and evaluate drifter trajectories using Ekman theory and 3-D ocean circulation models.     

重力场和地幔流应力场的关系

本文从地幔是Lamina牛顿可压缩粘滞性流体假设出发,根据流体力学推导出重力场和地幔流应力场的基本关系为: 此关系式为人们根据重力场认识地幔流对岩石圈的作用提供一新的途径。     

夏季黑潮区域SSTA及其与中国夏季降水的联系

采用海温、降水、OLR和NCEP／NCAR40a再分析资料，利用REOF方法，研究了夏季北半球海温异常(SSTA)的变化特征，结果显示：第4个REOF空间型是黑潮海温异常的典型形态。相关、合成分析表明，夏季黑潮海温正异常年时，长江流域降水偏多，洞庭湖流域显著偏多；负异常年时则反之。     

基于植被供水指数的农田干旱遥感监测研究

应用1995-2000年NOAA卫星资料，结合广西贵港市的数字化土地利用信息，通过时序分析方法找出典型作物代表区，并计算各典型代表区的平均、最大、最小VSWI（Vegetation Supply Water Index；植被供水指数）特征值，归纳分析水田和旱地的干旱指标，继而根据典型代表区的平均VSWI值划分旱情等级，生成农田旱情遥感图像，评估干旱情况。试验表明，该方法可用于湿润、半湿润地区的农田干旱遥感监测。     

祁连山夏季西南气流背景下地形云形成和演化的观测研究

利用2007年祁连山地形云的观测试验资料,分析了祁连山夏季西南气流背景下地形云的演化过程,得到了祁连山地形云发展和演变的概念模型。(1)祁连山地形云的水汽主要分布在3500～6500m的范围内,对流层中层的西南气流将水汽由南向北输送到祁连山区。(2)祁连山区水汽比较丰沛,凝结高度和自由对流高度均较低,当湿气团抬升到凝结高度以上时对流有效位能很容易释放,形成有利于产生降水的云系。(3)祁连山每个山峰南北侧昼间的谷风会在山峰辐合抬升,众多山峰形成的祁连山群谷风的抬升作用下容易形成沿山脊排列的中β对流云带,在高空西南气流的推动下移到北侧,是造成北侧降水比南侧大的原因之一。