A model of the formation and development of ocean shear wave

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波浪作用下岸坡和海底平衡条件的研究

提出波浪作用下岸坡和海底动态和静态平衡条件的数学模型。在已建立的推移质泥沙体积输沙率基本关系式的基础上,根据连续方程,计算出底坡、泥沙、波浪三要素在动态和静态平衡情况下的关系式,得出反映这种关系的底坡平衡函数曲线图。用实际资料对这一函数曲线进行了验证,并对实际资料相对模型的某些差异作出解释。     

Research on Characteristics of Density Current Under the Action of Waves

In this paper,the characteristics of density current under the action of waves are describedwith the help of flume experiment and theoretical analysis.The study shows that turbid water under the ac-tion of the waves can present three types of motion,i.e.significant stratification,fragile stratification andstrong mixing.The motion of turbid water presents significant stratification when(H/D)/△ρ/ρ~(1/2)≤4.5,generally this state is known as density current.The formulas of motionvelocity,thickness,and discharge of density current moving on horizontal bottom are derived by use of ba-sic equations such as momemtum equation,equation of energy conservation and continuity equation offluid.The time-average velocity and the thickness of density current under the action of waves have a rela-tionship with such parameters as relative density(△ρ/ρ),wave height(H),and water depth(D).Whenthese parameters are determined,the time-average thickness and motion velocity of density current are al-so determined.The relat     

波浪作用下异重流运动特性研究

本文通过水槽试验和理论分析手段对波浪作用下异重流运动特性进行了研究，应用流体运动基本方程推导了异重流在水平底面运动时的运动速度、厚度和流量表达式。结果表明，计算结果与水槽试验较一致     

考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算

本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。     

Dynamic Analysis of a Single-Column Platform (II)

This paper describes the study of a single-column structure used as well-head platform. In order to check the reliability of computation theory and programme, model tests have been carried out. The paper introduces the conclusion of tests and the dynamic properties of single-column platform are obtained.     

Calculating Method and Verification of Wave Pressure Distribution on the Breast Wall of Mound Breakwater

In this paper, the calculating charts and formulae about wave pressure on the breast wall are derived with seven parameters on the basis of physical model study. The verification shows that the charts agree with the example, and are adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbours Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.     

Wave-Current Forces on Slender Circular Cylinders

- A series model tests of wave forces by both regular and irregular waves combined with currents on single piles and bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays have been carried out. Based on Morison Equation, linear wave theory and linear wave spectrum theory as well, the characteristics of inline, lift and resultant forces on cylinders have been analyzed respectively. The drag, inertia and lift coefficients CD, CM and CL f皉 single piles related to KC number and the grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays related to KC number are given in this paper.     

Overtopping Discharge of Wind-Waves on Simple Slope Dikes

An empirical formula for estimating the overtopping discharge of wind-waves on a smooth-impermeable-simple slope dyke is derived through model tests in this paper, it can be adopted by related design departments in the determination of the crest elevation of the dyke.     

透空式水平板波浪上托力分布

通过系列模型试验，对波浪上托力沿板宽分布进行了详细分析，提出对于透空式平板结构，发生较大冲击压强或上托力的分布主要分为均布型和局部冲击型两类，由此得到压强分布的计算公式。大量试验资料表明，该公式与实验值有着较好的一致性。