Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model

This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.     

Characteristics of breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile

The substructures of offshore wind turbines are subjected to extreme breaking irregular wave forces. The present study is focused on investigating breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile using a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) based numerical model. The breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile mounted on a slope are investigated with a numerical wave tank. The experimental and numerical irregular free surface elevations are compared in the frequency-domain for the different locations in the vicinity of the cylinder. A numerical analysis is performed for different wave steepness cases to understand the influence of wave steepness on the breaking irregular wave loads. The wave height transformation and energy level evolution during the wave shoaling and wave breaking processes is investigated. The higher-frequency components generated during the wave breaking process are observed to play a significant role in initiating the secondary force peaks. The free surface elevation skewness and spectral bandwidth during the wave transformation process are analysed and an investigation is performed to establish a correlation of these parameters with the breaking irregular wave forces. The role of the horizontal wave-induced water particle velocity at the free surface and free surface pressure in determining the breaking wave loads is highlighted. The higher-frequency components in the velocity and pressure spectrum are observed to be significant in influencing the secondary peaks in the breaking wave force spectrum.     

Wave energy conversion under constrained wave-by-wave impedance matching with amplitude and phase-match limits

This paper investigates an approach to limit the fullness of ‘tuning’ provided by wave-by-wave impedance matching control of wave energy devices in irregular waves. A single analytical formulation based on the Lagrange multiplier approach of Evans [1] is used to limit the velocity amplitude while also limiting the closeness of the phase match between velocity and exciting force. The paper studies the effect of the present technique in concurrently limiting the device velocity and the required control/actuation force. Time domain application requires wave-profile prediction, which here is based on a deterministic propagation model. Also examined in the time domain is the effect of possible violation of the displacement constraint, which for many designs implies impacts at hard stops within the power take-off mechanism. Time domain simulations are carried out for a 2-body axisymmetric converter (with physical end-stops) in sea states reported for a site off the US east coast. It is found that the approach leads to effective power conversion in the less energetic sea states, while as desired, considerable muting of the optimal response is found in the larger sea states. Under the assumptions of this work, the end-stop collisions are found to have a minor effect on the power conversion. The present approach could be used to guide the design of power take-off systems so that their displacement stroke, maximum force, and resistive and reactive power limits are well-matched to the achievable performance of a given controlled primary energy converter.     

Verification of significant wave representation method

The significant wave representation method is the simplest method for computing the transformation of significant wave height across-shore. However, many engineers are reluctant to use this method because many researchers have pointed out that the method possibly contains a large estimation error. Nevertheless, Rattanapitikon et al. [Rattanapitikon, W., Karunchintadit, R., Shibayama, T., 2003. Irregular wave height transformation using representative wave approach. Coastal Engineering Journal, JSCE 45(3), 489–510.] showed that the wave representation method could be used to compute the transformation of root mean square wave heights. It may also be possible to use it for computing the significant wave height transformation. Therefore, this study was carried out to examine the possibility of simulating significant wave height transformation across-shore by using the significant wave representation method. Laboratory data from small- and large-scale wave flumes were used to calibrate and examine the models. Six regular wave models were applied directly to irregular waves by using the significant wave height and spectral peak period. The examination showed that three regular wave models (with new coefficients) could be used to compute the significant wave height transformation with very good accuracy. On the strength of both accuracy and simplicity of the three models, a suitable model is recommended for computing the significant wave height transformation. The suitable model was also modified for better predictions. The modified model (with different coefficients) can be used to compute either regular wave height or significant wave height transformation across-shore.     

The statistical distribution of nearbed wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth

The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data.     

雨生红球藻八氢番茄红素脱氢酶pds基因上游序列的分离和分析

在某些蓝藻、绿藻和高等植物中,八氢番茄红素脱氢酶是β-胡萝卜素合成过程中的一个关键酶之一,应用巢式PCR方法从雨生红球藻中克隆了八氢番茄红素脱氢酶基因约1kb的5’上游序列。通过生物信息学方法进行序列分析,发现pds基因上游序列中包含了一些可能的顺式元件,如ABRE调控元件、C-repeat/DRE调控元件等。同时,构建了由pds-启动子控制报告基因的重组载体,并转化到雨生红球藻细胞中,进行了报告基因瞬间表达的检测。结果表明,克隆的pds启动子区域具有启动子活性,可以驱使报告基因进行瞬间表达。     

瞬变电磁法拟地震成像研究进展

瞬变电磁法是工程地球物理勘察中应用较多的一种勘探方法之一,瞬变电磁法拟地震成像方法研究是当前电磁探测理论与应用研究的热门.文中详细叙述了瞬变电磁法拟地震成像的两种不同思路,一种是建立时间—频率转换经验公式,把TEM数据转换成平面波数据,借鉴大地电磁法拟地震解释思路进行成像,另一种是通过积分变换,把扩散场变成虚拟波场,把电磁衰减信号变成拟地震子波,然后按照地震解释法进行解释,并分析了各自存在的的问题.指出下一步研究的方向.     

近区瞬变场的频率效应与大深度探测能力的研究

在时域中,磁源近区瞬变场的时间特性取决于场源所含低频谱的分数幂.对于磁感应强度Bz(t)∝∑iω3/2i,对于感应电势εz(t)∝∑iω5/2i.这表明,现有的瞬变电磁探测系统只适用于浅部勘查,对于大深度的勘查,需要研制超强能量且轻便化的场源(发送系统),同时完善超导磁强计(接收系统)的实用化.     

极坐标系有限差分中起伏地表边界条件处理

有限差分算法是地震学中重要的算法,在直角坐标系下同位网格有限差分中使用牵引力镜像方法,可以高效准确地处理起伏地表边界条件.当研究区域-全球尺度问题时需要考虑地球曲率影响,此时选择极坐标系更加直观方便,但已有方法无法在极坐标系下准确计算起伏地表影响.本文在极坐标系有限差分中引入贴体网格和牵引力镜像方法处理起伏地表边界条件...     

德尔尼钴铜矿床物探勘查方法优选

德尔尼钴铜矿床主要矿石为致密块状含铜黄铁矿,上世纪60年代通过在矿区和外围投入11∶0000面积性自电、磁法测网,圈定自电异常28处,其中确定为矿致异常的14处,自电方法在德尔尼铜钴矿勘探初期发挥了重要作用。但利用这种找矿模式,从上世纪70年代至今,矿区外围找矿尚无突破性进展,这就需要对勘查方法进行比较与优选。本文通过对前人在矿区进行的物探方法加以比较,设计地电模型,进行瞬变电磁方法模拟计算,分析用瞬变电磁法探测矿体的有效性并在已知矿区进行的瞬变电磁剖面试验中获得成功,试验方法效果好,可以用于进一步外围找矿。