Instability analysis of three-dimensional ocean shear waves

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Wave-Current Forces on Slender Circular Cylinders

- A series model tests of wave forces by both regular and irregular waves combined with currents on single piles and bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays have been carried out. Based on Morison Equation, linear wave theory and linear wave spectrum theory as well, the characteristics of inline, lift and resultant forces on cylinders have been analyzed respectively. The drag, inertia and lift coefficients CD, CM and CL f皉 single piles related to KC number and the grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays related to KC number are given in this paper.     

Numerical Simulation of Multi-Directional Random Seas

Multi-directional irregular waves are simulated on the basis of the given directional spectrum using a double summation model, a single direction per frequency model and a single summation model. Their results are compared. It is shown that the single direction per frequency model proposed in this paper can generate a realistic wave field. The effects of the model parameters on the simulated results are also studied in this paper and corresponding suggestions are given.     

南海东北部表层沉积中生源和矿物碎屑组分分析及其古环境意义

通过对南海东北部128个表层沉积样品的定量研究，揭示隆源和矿物碎屑各组分的分布，也显示了组分分析作为一种简单、快速的研究方法在海洋古环境研究中的潜力，研究区生源碎屑的分布明显受与水深相关的深海溶解作用所控制，水深3500-4000m的现代南海CCD以下，钙质生物的含量急剧减少，而硅质生物的含量急剧增加，研究区表层沉积中的碎屑矿物主要来源于亚洲大陆，吕宋镐的风化产物只起次要作用，且其分布主要受与离岸距离远近和海流相关的搬运作用所控制。     

北太平洋亚热带环流区表层水中226Ra和228Ra的分布与变化

对1999年9～10月采自北太平洋亚热带环流区的19份表层海水样品的Ra同位素分析表明。研究海域表层水中的^226Ra、^228Ra放射性比度分别介于0．67～0．92、0．08～0．30Bq／m^3之间，平均值分别为0．74、0．11Bq/m^3．^226Ra/^228Ra)A．R．活度比的变化范围为0．11～0．44，平均值为0．19．上述数值明显低于近岸海域水体的相应值，表现为典型的开阔大洋水的特征．从空间分布的特征看，研究海域Ra同位素含量与^226Ra/^228Ra)A.R.值均呈均匀分布态势．将本研究结果与历史数据进行对比后发现，本研究获得的^226Ra、^228Ra放射性比度比20世纪60～80年代得到的数据来得低，可能与水体层化作用加强导致的Ra补充量的减少以及生物生产力升高导致的Ra迁出量的增加有关．北太平洋亚热带环流区表层水中Ra同位素的时间变化与文献报道的该海域叶绿素a、硅酸盐、磷酸盐含量与初级生产力的历史变化趋势相吻合．     

Burial and scour around short cylinder under progressive shoaling waves

The results of a laboratory experimental program aimed at better understanding the scour around and burial of heavy cylindrical objects under oscillating flow on a sandy bed are described. This study was motivated by its application to the dynamics of isolated cobbles/mines on a sandy floor under nonlinear progressive waves, such as that occur in shallow coastal waters beyond the wave-breaking region. In the experiments, nonlinear progressive waves were generated in a long wave tank of rectangular cross-section with a bottom slope. Model mines (short cylinders) were placed on the sandy bottom and the temporal evolution of the bed profile and the velocity field in the near field of the object were observed. Experiments were conducted at relatively high Reynolds numbers for a range of flow conditions, which can be characterized by the Keulegan–Carpenter number and Shields parameter. Depending on the values of these parameters, four different scour regimes around the cylinder including periodical burial of cylinder under migrating sand ripples were observed; they were classified as: (i) no scour/burial, (ii) initial scour, (iii) expanded scour, and (iv) periodic burial cases. A scour regime diagram was developed and the demarcation criteria between different regimes were deduced. Semi-empirical formulae that permit estimation of the scour depth with time, the equilibrium maximum scour depth and length, and conditions necessary for the burial of the cylinder as a function of main external parameters are also proposed.     

Sources and distribution of organic matter in a river-dominated estuary (Winyah Bay, SC, USA)

The sources and distribution of organic matter (OM) in surface waters and sediments from Winyah Bay (South Carolina, USA) were investigated using a variety of analytical techniques, including elemental, stable isotope and organic biomarker analyses. Several locations along the estuary salinity gradient were sampled during four different periods of contrasting river discharge and tidal range. The dissolved organic carbon (DOC) concentrations of surface waters ranged from 7 mg l⁻¹ in the lower bay stations closest to the ocean to 20 mg l⁻¹ in the river and upper bay samples. There was a general linear relationship between DOC concentrations and salinity in three of the four sampling periods. In contrast, particulate organic carbon (POC) concentrations were significantly lower (0.1–3 mg l⁻¹) and showed no relationship with salinity. The high molecular weight dissolved OM (HMW DOM) isolated from selected water samples collected along the bay displayed atomic carbon:nitrogen ratios ([C/N]a) and stable carbon isotopic compositions of organic carbon (δ¹³C_OC) that ranged from 10 to 30 and from −28 to −25‰, respectively. Combined, such compositions indicate that in most HMW DOM samples, the majority of the OM originates from terrigenous sources, with smaller contributions from riverine and estuarine phytoplankton. In contrast, the [C/N]a ratios of particulate OM (POM) samples varied significantly among the collection periods, ranging from low values of 5 to high values of >20. Overall, the trends in [C/N]a ratios indicated that algal sources of POM were most important during the early and late summer, whereas terrigenous sources dominated in the winter and early spring.In Winyah Bay bottom sediments, the concentrations of the mineral-associated OM were positively correlated with sediment surface area. The [C/N]a ratios and δ¹³C_OC compositions of the bulk sedimentary OM ranged from 5 to 45 and from −28 to −23‰, respectively. These compositions were consistent with predominant contributions of terrigenous sources and lesser (but significant) inputs of freshwater, estuarine and marine phytoplankton. The highest terrigenous contents were found in sediments from the river and upper bay sites, with smaller contributions to the lower parts of the estuary. The yields of lignin-derived CuO oxidation products from Winyah Bay sediments indicated that the terrigenous OM in these samples was composed of variable mixtures of relatively fresh vascular plant detritus and moderately altered soil OM. Based on the lignin phenol compositions, most of this material appeared to be derived from angiosperm and gymnosperm vascular plant sources similar to those found in the upland coastal forests in this region. A few samples displayed lignin compositions that suggested a more significant contribution from marsh C₃ grasses. However, there was no evidence of inputs of Spartina alterniflora (a C₄ grass) remains from the salt marshes that surround the lower sections of Winyah Bay.     

A semi-analytical solution for random wave-induced soil response and seabed liquefaction in marine sediments

In this study, unlike most previous investigations for wave-induced soil response, a simple semi-analytical model for the random wave-induced soil response is established for an unsaturated seabed of finite thickness. Two different wave spectra, the B-M and JONSWAP spectra, are considered in the new model. The influence of random wave loading on the soil response is investigated by comparing with the corresponding representative regular wave results through a parametric study, which includes the effect of the degree of saturation, soil permeability, wave height, wave period and seabed thickness. The maximum liquefaction depth under the random waves is also examined. The difference on the soil response under the two random wave types, B-M and JONSWAP frequency spectra, is also discussed in the present work.     

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).