Large-scale laboratory measurements of solitary wave inundation on a 1:20 slope

The run-up flow and related pressure of solitary waves breaking on a 1:20 plane beach were investigated experimentally in a super tank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m). Swash flow measurements of flow velocities are compared with an existing analytical solution. By incorporating an analytical solution, the hydrodynamic pressure for a quasi-steady flow state is determined and compared with laboratory data. Concerning the evident extra pressure exerted by the impact of swash flow, an empirical drag coefficient for a circular plate is also suggested in the present study.     

Application of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model to shallow water recurrence effects in random waves

The effect of ambient currents on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave energy transfer in random waves is studied with the use of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model. We focus on the phenomenon of wave recurrence as a classical nonlinear phenomenon whose characteristics are well established for systems truncated to small numbers of frequency modes. The model used for this study is first extended to enhance accuracy; comparisons of permanent form solutions to analytical forms confirm the model accuracy. Application of the model to a highly truncated system confirmed the model’s consistency with published results for both positive (following) and negative (adverse) currents. Propagation of random wave spectra over a flat bottom was performed with the model, with the intent of determining the prevalence of recurrence between the spectral peak and its harmonics. For spectra of moderate Ursell number, it was found that positive currents extended the length scale of recurrence relative to the case with no currents; conversely, negative currents reduced the recurrence lengths. However, beyond a propagation distance of ≈40 wavelengths of the spectral peak, recurrence becomes almost completely damped as the spectra becomes broad and the spectral energies equilibrate. For spectra of high Ursell number, in contrast, recurrence is almost immediately damped, suggesting that the nonlinearity is sufficient to allow immediate spectral broadening and equilibration and overwhelming any preferential interactions among the spectral peak and its harmonics, regardless of current magnitude or direction.     

Numerical simulation of sloshing waves in a 3D tank based on a finite element method

The sloshing waves in a three dimensional (3D) tank are analysed using a finite element method based on the fully non-linear wave potential theory. When the tank is undergoing two dimensional (2D) motion, the calculated results are found to be in very good agreement with other published data. Extensive calculation has been made for the tank in 3D motion. As in 2D motion, in addition to normal standing waves, travelling waves and bores are also observed. It is found that high pressures occur in various circumstances, which could have important implications for many engineering designs.     

南麂海域台风影响过程中的波浪特征

根据１９８３－１９８９年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料，分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明，这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪，在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高，既有较大波陡的风浪，也有波陡较小的清浪；各向波高的均值变化不大，各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距；本区的台风浪以４级波高占优，风浪以ＮＮＥ向、涌浪以Ｅ向为常浪向；波高为４级的风浪和涌浪，其周期分别在４．０－４．９Ｓ和７．０－７．９Ｓ之     

The statistics of particle velocities and accelerations under waves with directional spread

The statistics of the horizontal component of the water particle velocity vector under random waves are considered. A spread in the directions of travel of the component wave trains does not affect the rms value of the modulus r but it affects the shape of its probability distribution in such a way that the pr3bability of extreme values is reduced. For small and moderate directional spreads the modulus for a given probability of exceedance is reduced by a factor which tends to F_s as the probability of exceedance tends to zero, where F_s is the spread factor (which is typically 0.9 in temperate storms). However, the convergence on this asymptote is not complete for probabilities of engineering importance, particularly for wide directional spreads. The standard deviation of the probability distribution of the direction of the vector is reduced roughly in inverse proportion to r. The same conclusions apply to particle accelerations.     

直立堤前海床的局部冲刷

对不规则波作用下直立堤前海床的局部冲刷进行了研究。研究了由于波浪作用导致床面的底沙运动,从而造成提前海床的局部冲刷,即所谓的“相对粒沙”的情况。报导了;(1)堤前海床面为水平、堤下无基床情况下的堤前局部冲刷,以及堤下有明基床时基床尺度对堤前局部冲刷的影响;(2)堤前海床面为斜坡面时堤前的局部冲刷,以及当堤下有明基床时基床尺度对堤前局部冲刷的影响;(3)从波浪作用下床面边界层的理论分析出发,对于在不规则波作用下,离堤面愈远处的冲刷坑深度愈小的事实给出了解释。     

On the choice of data transformation for modelling time series of significant wave height

Autoregressive models have been shown to adequately model the time series of significant wave height. However, since this series exhibits a seasonal component and has a non-gaussian nature, it is necessary to transform the series before a model can be fit to the data. Two different transformations that have been used in earlier work are shown not to be appropriate for all types of applications. A third transformation is proposed here, which combines the better features of the two earlier ones and which is appropriate for simulation work. This is demonstrated with an example of a series from Figueira da Foz, a location of the Portuguese Coast.     

不规则波远破波对直墙的作用

基于物模试验、理论推理、因次分析和工程实例验证等综合分析方法,就不规则波远破波对直墙作用力的计算方法进行了研究,用推荐的方法得到的结果与工程实例符合较好.     

礁坪上波浪传播的数值模拟

本文基于具备间断捕捉能力的二阶全非线性Boussinesq数值模型,对规则波和随机波在礁坪地形上的传播变形进行了数值模拟。该模型采用高阶有限体积法和有限差分方法求解守恒格式的控制方程,将波浪破碎视为间断,同时采用静态重构技术处理了海岸动边界问题。重点针对礁坪上波浪传播过程中的波高空间分布和沿程衰减,礁坪上的平均水位变化,以及波浪能量频谱的移动和空间差异等典型水动力现象开展数值计算。将数值结果与实验结果对比,两者吻合情况良好,验证了模型具有良好的稳定性,具备模拟破碎波浪和海-岸动边界的能力,能较为准确地模拟波浪在礁坪地形上的传播过程中发生的各种水动力现象。     

空间互相关方法在分析海底沙波迁移规律中的应用

海底沙波具有显著的活动性并能够对海底工程设施造成潜在威胁,因此对海底沙波活动性的评估一直以来受到广泛关注。目前大多数研究者仍利用平面剖面对比来分析海底沙波的迁移特征。然而,该方法难以全面高效地获取海底沙波二维平面迁移矢量。本文基于2007年和2009年的高分辨率多波束测深数据,详细阐述了空间互相关方法在分析北部湾东南海域海底沙波迁移规律中的应用过程。利用实测数据进行对比分析,获得了研究区海底沙波的活动特征,并进一步讨论了空间互相关算法中不同参数的选取对结果的影响。结果显示,利用空间互相关分析方法能够有效获取海底沙波二维迁移矢量,获得的海底沙波迁移速率和迁移方向与前人研究成果吻合,表明了该方法的可行性和可靠性。但在对实际DTM数据进行空间互相关分析时,需根据海底沙波形态、数据质量等因素选取合适的参数及矢量获取方法。本研究实验了一种确定海底沙波迁移规律的新方法,该方法将有效提升获得海底地形变化规律的效率和准确度,可获得更加精细的海底地形动力过程。