沃克环流上升区赤道低空强西风带的分析

采用ＴＯＧＡ／ＣＯＡＲＥ国际合作考察期间（１９９２年１０月─１９９３年２月）获得的２６７次定点（２°Ｓ，１５５°Ｅ）定时高空大气探测资料，进行计算分析，发现１９９２年１２月─１９９３年２月低空存在一支西风急流，有两次分别持续半月之久，而１９９２年１１月的两次赤道西风急流，因无赤道高空急流配合，仅持续２ｄ便消失。本文还指出：（１）赤道低空西风急流是各种海－气指数产生ＥＮＳＯ异常的重要信息；（２）赤道高空急流有滞后赤道低空急流２ｄ左右的响应关系；（３）赤道低空急流是纬向水汽输送的狭窄通道。     

Research on Characteristics of Density Current Under the Action of Waves

In this paper,the characteristics of density current under the action of waves are describedwith the help of flume experiment and theoretical analysis.The study shows that turbid water under the ac-tion of the waves can present three types of motion,i.e.significant stratification,fragile stratification andstrong mixing.The motion of turbid water presents significant stratification when(H/D)/△ρ/ρ~(1/2)≤4.5,generally this state is known as density current.The formulas of motionvelocity,thickness,and discharge of density current moving on horizontal bottom are derived by use of ba-sic equations such as momemtum equation,equation of energy conservation and continuity equation offluid.The time-average velocity and the thickness of density current under the action of waves have a rela-tionship with such parameters as relative density(△ρ/ρ),wave height(H),and water depth(D).Whenthese parameters are determined,the time-average thickness and motion velocity of density current are al-so determined.The relat     

波浪作用下异重流运动特性研究

本文通过水槽试验和理论分析手段对波浪作用下异重流运动特性进行了研究，应用流体运动基本方程推导了异重流在水平底面运动时的运动速度、厚度和流量表达式。结果表明，计算结果与水槽试验较一致     

Siltation Prediction for Navigation Channels and Harbour Basins on Muddy Beach

- This paper, after briefly reviewing the experimental research on sediment transport on muddy beach since the 1950s, improves and perfects the method for forecasting siltation in navigation channels and harbour basins which was first put forward in China by the authors. In consideration of silty sediment and sand, some factors in forecasting methods have been changed and modified. Consequently, the modified methods can be used either to compute siltation in navigation channels and harbour basins on muddy beach or to compute siltation and scouring in navigation channels and harbour basins on both silty beach and sandy beach. The verification of field data from eleven large, medium and small natural harbours shows a good agreement between the forecasting by the modified method and the natural conditions. Finally, the paper deals with the rational utilization of water area after the construction of the West Dyke in Lianyungang, the maintenance of water depth of the navigation channel at the entrance, siltation distribution, siltation in the navigation channel and harbour basin for ships of 100 thousand tonnnage. Results once again prove that the prospect of constructing Lianyungang Harbour into a deepwater harbour is bright.     

An inexpensive instrument for measuring benthic current velocity and direction at sea

An instrument which measures the velocity and direction of benthic water currents at depths of up to 80 m is described. Characteristics of this meter include: (i) readings are not affected by water flow during sinking or retrieval; (ii) it is portable; (iii) it operates unattended; (iv) it is inexpensive; and (v) it requires only simple maintenance. A timing circuit which operates two time periods in succession is used to activate and de-activate a revolution counter and a fluidfilled compass which are mounted on a special frame and vane system. In the field, the instrument accurately measured average current velocities of up to 6 m s⁻¹. Data are presented which illustrate the usefulness of this instrument in describing the velocity and direction of benthic currents along the east coast of Australia and demonstrate a positive correlation between benthic current velocity and catch rates of the commercially-exploited spanner crab Ranina ranina.     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Wave Defending Effects of V-Type Bottom-Mounted Breakwaters

An analytical method is developed for the study of the wave defending effects of the V-type bottom-mounted breakwater. The breakwater is assumed to be rigid, thin, impermeable and vertically located in water of constant depth. The fluid domain is divided into three sub-regions by an imaginary interface. The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunctions. By satisfying the corresponding boundary conditions and matching conditions in and between sub-regions, a set of hnear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coetfficients for the eigenfunction expansions for each sub-region. The accuracy of the present model is verified by a comparison with existing results for the case of an isolated breakwater. Numerical results, in the form of contour maps of the relative wave amplitude around the breakwater, are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters. The results show that the V-type bottommounted breakwater is generally effective in defending against waves. In general, the wave height in the protected area is about 20-50 percent of the incident wave height.     

九州西侧海域129°E断面的流速和温盐结构特征

根据中、日合作黑潮调查研究期间（1987－1993年）在九州西侧海域获得的水文资料，计算了129°E断面的地转流速和流量。着重提出129°E断面北侧存在一支较稳定的西向流；分析这支西向流的去向，指出它是向对马暖流输送黑潮水的重要途径；给出了这支西向流及黑潮通过该断面的流速、流轴、流幅及流量的变化特征。     

Vertical Sound Velocity Transition in the Coral Reef Core and Its Significance of Indicating Facies

On the basis of the sound velocity measurements of the coral reef core from Nanyong No.1 well of Yongshu Reef in the Nansha Islands,the paper studies the relations between the vertical sound velocity transition features in the coral reef core and the corresponding stratigraphic depositional facies change as well as stratigraphic gap of erosion,analyses the cause of the sound velocity transition,expounds the concrete process of the sea level change resulting in the stratigraphic gap of erosion and facies change in the coral reef and explains the relations between the vertical sound velocity transition in the coral reef core and the corresponding stratigraphic paleoclimate and the sea level change.This study is of important practical value and theoretical significance to the island and reef engineering construction and the acoustic logging for oil exploration in the reef limestone area as well as the paleoceanographic study of the marginal sea in the westerm Pacific Ocean.     

Estimation of Water Particle Velocities by Empirical Transfer Function

-In previous and this studies it appears that the linear and nonlinear wave theory can notaccurately and easily predict the water particle velocities.Therefore,different from the theoretical consider-ations,in this study we have attempted to determine the transfer function empirically.Laboratory experi-ments were performed under various wave conditions.The empirical formulas of the transfer function ofthe wave height,angular frequency and water particle velocity were obtained on the basis of these test databy dimensional analysis and regression analysis.In intermediate and deep water depth conditions,thetransfer function was only a function of a nondimensional parameter which is composed of the angular fre-quency,the depth of the velocity gauge under the still water level,water depth and the acceleration of grav-ity.Finally,the empirical formulas were compared with experimental data and observational data formpresent and Cavaleri's(1978)studies.The empirical formulas were found to be in sufficient correl