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51.
In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement. 相似文献
52.
C. Riedel A. Tryggvason B. Brandsdottír T. Dahm R. Stéfansson M. Hensch R. Böðvarsson K. S. Vogfjord S. Jakobsdottír T. Eken R. Herber J. Holmjarn M. Schnese M. Thölen B. Hofmann B. Sigurdsson S. Winter 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(4):267-281
Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system. 相似文献
53.
厦门港潮汐水流及浑水悬沙整体物理模型于1989年建成后,已进行了不少有意义的试验研究工作,取得较好效果。本文主要介绍模型的设计思想、相似准则、浑水悬沙相似理论的探讨、模型设计方法以及模型沙的选择等。 相似文献
54.
渤海湾沿岸泥炭沼泽形成机制与时空分布 总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4
渤海湾沿岸的海陆过渡带,优越的水文地理环境有利于泥炭沼泽的形成与发育。海洋海退导致的海岸线变迁,是控制泥炭沼泽发育时间和空间分布的主导因素。间冰期和冰后期的海面上升期间,自海向陆发育了海侵基底泥炭;中全新世高海面期,在山前扇缘洼地和沟谷有泥炭沼泽发育;晚全新世海面下降期,泥炭沼泽主要发育在沿岸的海湾、泻湖、三角洲汊河间洼地及平原上的河滩、阶地、古河道等地。 相似文献
55.
56.
Rheological Properties and Incipient Motion of Cohesive Sediment in the Haihe Estuary of China 总被引:2,自引:1,他引:2
The Haihe cohesive sediment, which is typical in China, is studied systematically for its basic physical and incipientmotion properties. Following the requirements of dredging works in the Haihe Estuary, cohesive sediment samples weretaken from three locations. Laboratory experiments were conducted to determine the rheological properties of these sam-ples and to examine the incipient motion of the cohesive sediment. It is found that the cohesive sediment has an obviousyield stress τb, which increases with the mud density in a manner of an exponential function, and so does the viscosityparameter η. The cohesive sediment behaves like a Bingham fluid when its density is below 1.38 ~ 1.40 g/cm3, andwhen denser than these values, it may become a power-law fluid. The incipient motion experiment also revealed that theincipient velocity of the cohesive sediment increases with the density in an exponential manner. Therefore, the incipientmotion is primarily related to the density, which is different from the case for non-cohesive sediment in which the incipi-ent motion is correlated with the diameter of sand particles instead. The incipient motion occurs in two different ways de-pending on the concentration of mud in the bottom. For sufficiently fine particles and a concentration lower than1.20 g/cm3, the cohesive sediment appears as fluidized mud, and the incipient motion is in the form of instability of aninternal wave. For a higher concentration, the cohesive sediment appears as general quasi-solid-mud, and the incipientmotion can be described by a series of extended Shields curves each with a different porosity for newly deposited alluvial mud. 相似文献
57.
The European Regional Seas Ecosystem Model (ERSEM) has been coupled with a two-dimensional depth-averaged transport model of the Humber plume region and run to simulate 1988–1989. Simulations of the spatial and temporal variations in chlorophyll-a, nitrate, phosphate and suspended particulate matter distributions in winter, spring and summer show how the development of the spring bloom and subsequent maintenance of primary production is controlled by the physicochemical environment of the plume zone. Results are also shown for two stations, one characterised by the high nutrient and suspended matter concentrations of the plume and the other by the relatively low nutrient and sediment concentrations of the offshore waters. The modelled net primary production at the plume site was 105 g C m−2 a−1 and 127 g C m−2 a−1 offshore. Primary production was controlled by light limitation between October and March and by the availability of nutrients during the rest of the year. The phytoplankton nutrient demand is met by in-situ recycling processes during the summer. The likely effect of increasing and decreasing anthropogenic riverine inputs of nitrate and phosphate upon ecosystem function was also investigated. Modelling experiments indicate that increasing the nitrogen to silicate ratio in freshwater inputs increased the production of non-siliceous phytoplankton in the plume. The results of this model have been used to calculate the annual and quarterly mass balances describing the usage of inorganic nitrogen, phosphate and silicate within the plume zone for the period of the NERC North Sea survey (September 1988 to October 1989). The modelled Humber plume retains 3.9% of the freshwater dissolved inorganic nitrogen, 2.2% of the freshwater phosphate and 1.3% of the freshwater silicate input over the simulated seasonal cycle. The remainder is transported into the southern North Sea in either dissolved or particulate form. The reliability of these results is discussed. 相似文献
58.
59.
C.G. Castro M. Nieto-Cid X.A. lvarez-Salgado F.F. Prez 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2006,53(12):1925-1940
The short-time-scale variability of the remineralization patterns in the domain of Eastern North Atlantic Central Waters (ENACW) off the NW Iberian Peninsula is studied based on biogeochemical data (oxygen, nutrient salts, total alkalinity, pH, dissolved organic matter and fluorescence of dissolved humic substances) collected weekly between May 2001 and April 2002. The temporal variability of inorganic variables points to an intensification of remineralization during the summer and autumn, with an increase of nutrients, total inorganic carbon and fluorescence and a decrease of oxygen. During the subsequent winter mixing, there is a biogeochemical reset of the system, with lower nutrients, total inorganic carbon and fluorescence and higher oxygen. In contrast to inorganic variables, the levels of dissolved organic matter in the ENACW seem to respond to short-term events probably associated with fast sinking particles, where solubilisation of organic matter prevails over remineralization. Applying a previously published stoichiometric model, we observed a vertical fractionation of organic-matter remineralization. Although there is a preferential remineralization of proteins and P compounds in the entire domain of ENACW, the percentage was higher in the upper ENACW (σ<27.10 kg/m3) than in the lower; the percentage of N and P compounds in the oxidised organic matter was >80% for the upper ENACW and 63% for the lower. Likewise, the redissolution of calcareous structures contributes about 6% and 13% to the carbon regenerated in the upper and lower layers of ENACW, respectively. 相似文献
60.
张祖陆 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1994,14(1):69-74
本文祥详细记述了山东省首次发现的虎化石的特征及出土地点和剖面的基本情况,论证了化石出土地层剖面的时代,应当属于晚更新世,并阐明了该化石发现的意义。 相似文献