潮沟系统水沙输运研究——以长江口崇明东滩为例

本研究以崇明东滩2015年4月实测潮间带水沙数据为基础,分析了潮沟、盐沼及光滩的水沙特征,重点研究了潮沟系统及邻近潮滩潮周期内悬沙通量情况。结果表明:（1）潮沟表层沉积物比潮滩细,二者平均中值粒径分别为21.7 μm和33.0 μm,悬沙粒径由海向陆逐渐变小;（2）大、小潮沟潮周期内潮流均以往复流为主,垂向平均流速分别为15.4 cm/s和34.6 cm/s;盐沼界和光滩则以旋转流为主,平均流速分别为11.3 cm/s和28.9 cm/s;（3）潮沟中的高悬沙浓度出现在涨潮初期,最大可达7.5 kg/m3,而潮滩高悬沙浓度则出现在潮落潮中期和高水位时刻;大、小潮沟和盐沼界站涨潮阶段平均悬沙浓度大于落潮阶段,光滩站则相反。潮沟悬沙主要来自邻近水域,而潮滩悬沙则与滩面表层沉积物密切相关;（4）潮沟在潮周期内净输沙方向均指向滩地,大潮沟潮周期单宽净输沙量可达4.0 t/m;盐沼界处垂直岸线和沿岸输沙强度相近,净输沙由海向陆,潮周期离岸输沙强度为1.0 t/m;光滩沿岸输沙强度远大于垂直岸线输沙,光滩净输沙由陆向海。研究揭示了潮间带潮沟系统的强供沙能力以及研究区域光滩冲蚀,盐沼植被带淤积的动力地貌过程。     

A two-dimensional finite volume hydrodynamic model for coastal areas: Model development and validation

A two dimensional implicit finite volume scheme for solving the shallow-water equations is developed. The effects of the Coriolis force, surface wind stress, and waves are included. A non-uniform rectilinear forward staggered grid is used with Cartesian coordinates. The time integration is performed using the Euler implicit technique. The convective flux is treated using the deferred correction method. The viscous terms are discretized using a second order central difference approximation. The SIMPLE (Semi-Implicit Method for Pressure-Linked Equations) algorithm is used for coupling the velocity components and the water elevation gradient for the water level correction. The system of equations is solved sequentially using the Strongly Implicit Procedure (SIP). To simulate wave driven current, a phase averaged wave model is used first to simulate wave transformation and calculate radiation stresses. The performance of the developed model is validated for different sources of external forces and different combinations of boundary conditions. The validation cases include tidal circulation in a harbor and wave induced currents behind a breakwater parallel to the coastline. The model is finally applied to simulate the flow pattern in a closed artificial lagoon and along the coastline near Damietta Port located along the Northern coast of Egypt. Results of the developed model agree well with the published results for the considered cases.     

钦州湾潮流深槽的成因与稳定性探讨

据钦州湾2007年1—2月的实测潮流,结合径流、潮汐等资料,经水动力和港湾地形综合分析揭示:钦州湾的潮流深槽是潮流作用于葫芦形复式港湾的必然产物,是在内湾纳潮蓄能、湾颈狭道强流、颈口岛礁分流喷射冲刷而成的。通过对潮流流路和强度的分析,对潮流深槽的稳定性进行了探讨;进而通过湾颈流速-内湾纳潮关系计算,给出了潮流深槽稳定的临界条件。     

斜坡式防波护岸断面形式的实验研究

从某一大型工程中的邻海区域江堤加固工程的各种方案比较出发,分析讨论了这类工程结构形式受波浪作用的情况及结构物设计中方案比选的有关问题。     

海南东寨港红树林港湾潮汐动力研究

在海南东寨港林市村附近红树林港湾潮汐动力测量的基础上，建立二维可移动边界有限元数值模型，研究红树林港湾浅水湖滩潮流场特征。实测与计算结果表明，潮沟区流速最大，具驻波特征，呈明显时间－速度不对称，东潮沟涨潮优势，百潮沟落潮优势，整个港湾水体呈顺时针循环。白滩与林地周期性淹没，白滩流速较湖沟略小。林地曼宁系数为白滩的１０倍，流速小于１０ｃｍ·ｓ（－１），约为相应潮沟流速的１／１０。林地如去掉林木，流速可增加３倍以上，流向也有变化。     

Measurements of the vertical correlation in turbulence under broken waves

Turbulence measurements have been carried out in the surf zone of a wave flume. The purpose of the measurements is to determine the length scale of the turbulence generated by the wave breaking. The length scale of the turbulence is estimated on basis of the correlation between simultaneous measurements of the vertical turbulent fluctuations, taken at different levels above the bed.     

辐射沙脊主要水道的演变特征及其水动力机制研究

近四十年来的水下地形资料对比显示：南黄海辐射沙洲区水道普遍存在逐渐向南偏移的趋势（西洋主槽冲深、南延,南翼烂沙洋水道、小庙洪水道向南逼进）。有关辐射沙洲整体南移的原因及机理虽有诸多猜想,但至今没有统一可靠的认识,这种趋势性过程的驱动力成为辐射沙洲区海岸冲淤动态研究及港口建设过程中亟待解决的问题。在恢复黄河北归以来苏北黄河三角洲海岸不同发育阶段的岸线位置和水下地形的基础之上,通过所建立的潮波数学模型,研究了在苏北黄河三角洲不同演变阶段南黄海潮波系统的特征及水动力变化。研究表明,随着岸线后退和水下三角洲的夷平,辐射沙洲地区潮差不断增大;水动力不断加强,而且加强的区域逐渐向南偏移,这种大范围区域性水动力主轴的向南偏移就有可能是导致辐射沙洲整体南移的主导因素之一。     

Structure and distribution of the benthic macrofauna on a Northwest African sandy beach close to a freshwater river discharge

The effects of the freshwater discharge of the Oued Sebou River on the macroinfauna, was studied on the sandy beach of Mehdia through the analysis of the abiotic parameters and of the macrozoobenthos. In autumn 2002 and spring 2003, three beach sites, each with two transects, localized at 50, 3500 and 5720 m from the river mouth respectively, were studied. Positive correlations were recorded for beach slope and pH whereas negative ones were obtained for organic matter content and salinity at increasing distances from the river mouth. Significant differences between beach sites and seasons occurred for median grain size, organic matter content and pH. For each beach site, mean macroinfauna abundance varied between 30 and 100 ind.·m⁻² and in spring there was a significant correlation between this parameter and the increasing distance from the river mouth. No significant correlation was instead found between species richness and the increasing distance, although the farthest beach site from the mouth had the highest number of species during both seasons. The results indicated the importance of organic matter content and salinity for the macrofaunal abundance whereas the diversity indices were more affected by beach slope and grain size. The results showed that there was no clear spatial trend in compound indices of the macrofauna across the sampled sites and the influence of the river discharge of Sebou River did not seem to be significant and consistent on the macrobenthos of this mesotidal shore. Comparison with microtidal shores revealed the influence of the tidal excursion and swell characteristics on the response of the benthic structures of sandy beaches to discharges of freshwater.     

Sharksucker–shark interaction in two carcharhinid species

It is not known whether sharksuckers have positive or negative effects on their hosts, partly because this association is difficult to study in free‐ranging fish. I observed the behaviour of sharks with and without sharksuckers, to determine whether the hosts actively avoid sharksuckers. Wild blacktip sharks, Carcharhinus limbatus, took evasive actions when sharksuckers, Echeneis naucrates, attached to them, presumably to escape from skin irritation or hydrodynamical drag caused by the sharksuckers. Sharksuckers were most often attached to the belly or back of the shark, and sharks reacted most strongly to sharksuckers on their heads, sides, and dorsal fins. Observations of two captive bull sharks, Carcharhinus leucas, indicated that swimming speed increased when sharksuckers were attached. This paper supports the hypothesis that sharksucker attachment irritates sharks, and that the relationship between the two is best viewed as a subtle host–parasite interaction.     

Analysis of estuarine colour components during non-monsoon period through Ocean Colour Monitor

Simultaneous acquisition of water samples, radiance and irradiance measurements were carried out from 40 stations in the Mandovi–Zuari estuaries during February to May 2002. From the samples collected, inherent and apparent optical properties (IOP and AOP) such as absorption coefficient (a), upwelling diffuse attenuation coefficient (k_u) and subsurface reflectance (R) were derived. Using these optical properties, radiative transfer at each water column is examined. On the basis of the radiative transfer outcome, band-ratio algorithms are derived for three optically active substances (OAS), viz, chlorophyll-a, suspended sediment and coloured dissolved organic matter (CDOM). The respective algorithms are 670/555, 490/670 and 412/670 nm for chlorophyll-a, suspended sediment and CDOM. These algorithms are applied to Ocean Colour Monitor (OCM), onboard Indian Remote Sensing Satellite (IRS)-Polar Satellite Launch Vehicle (P4), scenes (digital data), to synoptically analyze these OAS. The synoptic analysis of OAS revealed different hydrodynamic characteristics of the estuaries during non-monsoon seasons.