地形与流对水平无旋浅水波的影响

本文在水平无旋及Boussinesq假设之下,导出了水面变化与水平速度场耦合方程组,以及相应的压力与垂向速度解析表示式。通过数值方法求得水面变化及某一特定水深的水平速度分布之后,压力分布及其余水深的速度分布即可由简单计算得到。由色散关系式可知,不同水深的长波色散关系在O(ε)近似之下是等同的。粘性的存在会使波高随时间的增加而衰减,但粘性与底斜率的耦合又可能使波高增长,形成不稳定;计算及分析说明,当同向流增大时,波速增大,波长增大,波高会增加;而水深减少,使波速减少,波长缩短,振幅增加。     

抛石防波堤人工护面块体强度模拟研究

本文主要研究了混凝土人工护面块体在模型试验中的强度模拟问题，根据不同比尺要求的强度指标，确定新型材料组成成份及其配比，并针对已有防波堤护面块体的破坏情况，进行了水槽模型验证试验。     

Virtual wave gauges based upon stereo imaging for measuring surface wave characteristics

A virtual wave gauge (VWG) technique based on stereo imaging is developed to remotely measure water wave height, period, and direction. VWG minimizes computational costs by directly tracking the elevation of the water surface at selected points of interest using a Eulerian based dynamic searching algorithm. Results show that the VWG technique developed in this paper dramatically improves efficiency by two orders of magnitude compared to the traditional Lagrangian–Eulerian based point cloud method of stereo image processing. VWG is tested against traditional wave wire gauges to within 98% accuracy for significant wave height. Furthermore, the flexibility of the VWG is demonstrated in two field applications. First in an offshore breaking wave case, an array of VWGs is used to efficiently measure wave directionality. Second to investigate the reflection coefficient of a rock-mounted structure interacting with nearshore waves, linear and spatial VWG arrays are designed and implemented based on a priori information of the wave field from a preliminary VWG measurement. Overall, we demonstrate that the flexible and computational efficient VWG technique has the potential to make real-time remote stereo imaging wave measurements a reality.     

Measurement and modeling of bed shear stress under solitary waves

Direct measurements of bed shear stresses (using a shear cell apparatus) generated by non-breaking solitary waves are presented. The measurements were carried out over a smooth bed in laminar and transitional flow regimes (~ 10⁴ < R_e < ~ 10⁵). Measurements were carried out where the wave height to water depth (h/d) ratio varied between 0.12 and 0.68; maximum near bed velocity varied between 0.16 m/s and 0.51 m/s and the maximum total shear stress (sum of skin shear stress and Froude–Krylov force) varied between 0.386 Pa and 2.06 Pa. The total stress is important in determining the stability of submarine sediment and in sheet flow regimes. Analytical modeling was carried out to predict total and skin shear stresses using convolution integration methods forced with the free stream velocity and incorporating a range of eddy viscosity models. Wave friction factors were estimated from skin shear stress at different instances over the wave (viz., time of maximum positive total shear stress, maximum skin shear stress and at the time of maximum velocity) using both the maximum velocity and the instantaneous velocity at that phase of the wave cycle. Similarly, force coefficients obtained from total stress were estimated at time of maximum positive and negative total stress and at maximum velocity. Maximum positive total shear stress was approximately 1.5 times larger than minimum negative total stress. Modeled and measured positive bed shear stresses are well correlated using the best convolution model, but the model underestimates the data by about 4%. Friction factors are dependent on the choice of normalizing using the maximum velocity, as is conventional, or the instantaneous velocity. These differ because the stress is not in phase with the velocity in general. Friction factors are consistent with previous data for monochromatic waves, and vary inversely with the square-root of the Reynolds number. The total shear stress leads the free stream fluid velocity by approximately 50°, whereas the skin friction shear stress leads by about 30°, which is similar to that reported by earlier researchers.     

北极薄冰-煎饼冰区域中不同重力波驱动形成海流的敏感性分析

A coupled ocean-ice-wave model is used to study ice-edge jet and eddy genesis during surface gravity wave dissipation in a frazil-pancake ice zone. With observational data from the Beaufort Sea, possible wave dissipation processes are evaluated using sensitivity experiments. As wave energy dissipated, energy was transferred into ice floe through radiation stress. Later, energy was in turn transferred into current through ocean-ice interfacial stress. Since most of the wave energy is dissipated at the ice edge, ice-edge jets, which contained strong horizontal shear, appeared both in the ice zone and the ocean. Meanwhile, the wave propagation direction determines the velocity partition in the along-ice-edge and cross-ice-edge directions, which in turn determines the strength of the along-ice-edge jet and cross-ice-edge velocity. The momentum applied in the along-ice-edge(cross-ice-edge)direction increased(decreased) with larger incident angle, which is favorable condition for producing stronger mesoscale eddies, vice versa. The dissipation rate increases(decreases) with larger(smaller) wavenumber, which enhances(reduces) the jet strength and the strength of the mesoscale eddy. The strong along-ice-edge jet may extend to a deep layer(> 200 m). If the water depth is too shallow(e.g., 80 m), the jet may be largely dampened by bottom drag, and no visible mesoscale eddies are found. The results suggest that the bathymetry and incident wavenumber(magnitude and propagation direction) are important for wave-driven current and mesoscale eddy genesis.     

Spatial Variation in the Structure of Kelp Forest Communities Along a Wave Exposure Gradient

Abstract. Four sites were sampled in kelp (Macrocysiis pyrifera) forests occupying rocky bottom habitats along a wave exposure gradient in central California. Consistent betwecn-site differences were found in the three major structural elements - the surface canopy, the undcrstory assemblage, and the ground cover/turf assemblage - of kelp forest communities. Macrocysiis pyrifera was found at all four sites. Nereucyslis tuelkeana only at the most exposed site. The understory kelps Laminaria setchellii and Pterygopltora californica were also characteristic of exposed sites. Articulated coralline algae were more abundant at exposed sites than protected, while fleshy red algae showed the opposite pattern. All four study sites were located along 8.5 km of coastline, and thus were assumed to have available to them the same species pool for colonization. The substrate composition was the same and the amount of unconsolidated substrate was similar at all four sites. We suggest that exposure to wave-generated water motion, through its influence on the surface canopy and therefore on the amount of light reaching the bottom, is responsible for these between-site differences.     

Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.     

Stability Design System of Submarine Pipelines

This paper introduces a stability design system of submarine pipelines. The system can provide a reasonable design procedure for users with reference to domestic and foreign methods and in the light of home engineering experience.     

Long-Period Distribution of Wave Heights and Its Application

This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.