二维EMD 方法在微尺度波斜率波数谱提取中的应用

进行海面微尺度波频率分析时,为消除重力波影响,引入二维 EMD(经验模态分解)方法滤除造成频率混叠的长重力波,然后进行傅立叶变换,得到海面微尺度波谱,进一步处理得到斜率波数谱。斜率波数谱提取结果表明：采用二维EMD方法可以有效滤除图像中混叠的长波信息,在此基础上进行微尺度斜率波谱计算的结果与国外已有结果基本一致。文中还将二维 EMD 方法与小波方法的处理结果进行了比对,结果表明在滤除长波的影响时,二维EMD方法具有其较明显的优势。     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物与海滩稳定性分析

海滩是砂质海岸重要的沉积地貌单元,其沉积特征和稳定性对于海滩的开发利用与保护具有重要意义。本文根据海口湾西海岸海滩表层沉积物粒度数据,阐述了该区域海滩沉积物的时空分布规律,并通过对比滩面高程数据和水下地形数据分析了该区域的岸滩稳定性。结果表明：海口湾西海岸海滩处于滩面微蚀的轻度不稳定态,其岸外浅滩处于边坡侵蚀的轻度不稳定态。另外,根据波浪作用和泥沙来源进一步探讨了海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物动力机制及其海滩侵蚀的原因。     

基于BELLHOP 模型的宽带信号波形预报

为解决信号级声纳仿真系统的水声传输信道宽带信号波形预报问题,采用射线模型的基本原理,推导了基于射线的宽带水声信道响应函数.并在Pekeris环境条件下,分析比较了基于BELLHOP射线模型的时域宽带模型与基于BDRM模型的频域宽带模型波形预报结果.结果表明,水声信道具有典型的时域数字滤波器特征,其本质是对脉冲信号进行延迟、加权和求和,这种延迟求和会导致系统频域幅度响应函数呈现“梳状滤波器”形状.在一定条件下,射线模型与简正波模型具有同等计算精度,由于射线模型通过一次计算就能得到所有本征声线的幅度和延迟,相对于简正波模型来说,计算效率更高.同时利用射线模型,能够方便地选择接收特定角度出射的本征声线.     

平台基有缆潜标实时内波监测系统

研究开发了一套依托于海洋平台进行安装的有缆潜标实时内波监测系统.该系统由温度传感器、温盐深传感器(CTD)、定点海流计(DVS)、终端接收机、绞车、钢缆、电缆及锚定重块等组成.温度传感器、CTD和DVS依一定的空间间隔串行连接并固定在系泊钢缆上.系统利用电缆实时供电、采用可寻址RS485总线进行控制和数据传输.集成的有缆潜标内波监测系统在中海油所属的PY30-1平台上进行了现场内波观测,成功捕获了多个内波过程,为获取长时间序列的内波实测数据、进而为开展南海内波机理和工程应用研究提供了有效的技术手段.     

中国南海东部海域气候特征及风浪流极值参数的研究——LAGFD数值模式群的应用

本文采用先进的ＬＡＧＦＤ风、浪数值模式和ＰＯＭ（ＰｒｉｎｃｅｔｏｎＯｃｅａｎＭｏｄｅｌ）三维海流模式对自１９４５～１９９５年间发生并影响南海东部海域的２９９个历史最强热带气旋过程进行数值后报,给出了南海东部部分海域（１９°～２３°Ｎ,１１３°～１１８°Ｅ）中１０００ｍ等深线内６０个点的多年一遇风、浪、流和水位极值,并简要分析了南海东部（１５°～２７°Ｎ,１０８°～１２２°Ｅ）的气候特征,为该海域区域性海洋环境研究与工程开发提供了基础参考数据。     

波速线性变化介质中地震波传播特征

根据变速介质中地震波传播所满足的变系数波动方程,推导出波速线性变化介质中一维波动方程的解析解,讨论了波速不均匀性对地震波传播的影响：地震波振幅衰减大小与介质速度梯度有关;频率转折点两侧地震波传播性质;频率与地震波波速关系。     

The statistics of particle velocities and accelerations under waves with directional spread

The statistics of the horizontal component of the water particle velocity vector under random waves are considered. A spread in the directions of travel of the component wave trains does not affect the rms value of the modulus r but it affects the shape of its probability distribution in such a way that the pr3bability of extreme values is reduced. For small and moderate directional spreads the modulus for a given probability of exceedance is reduced by a factor which tends to F_s as the probability of exceedance tends to zero, where F_s is the spread factor (which is typically 0.9 in temperate storms). However, the convergence on this asymptote is not complete for probabilities of engineering importance, particularly for wide directional spreads. The standard deviation of the probability distribution of the direction of the vector is reduced roughly in inverse proportion to r. The same conclusions apply to particle accelerations.     

Elastic response of catamaran wetdeck to liquid impact

The impact of an elastic plate onto the compressible fluid without free surface deformation is considered. The ability of the liquid volume to be deformed is geometrically limited which leads to severe impact conditions. The present analysis is focused on the stresses in the plate and the hydrodynamic loads under the impact. The motivation for this research comes from ship hydrodynamics, where the hulls of a catamaran restrict the liquid outflow and the water impacts onto the wetdeck. The influence of the air on the impact process is investigated. The analysis did not reveal any great advantage of utilizing the air-cushion effect or ejection of air into the water near the impact region to prevent high stresses in the elastic plate. It was found that in the problem considered, the stress peaks far from the plate centre and the one-mode approximation does not provide correct information about the stress level.     

Numerical Simulation of Abnormal Wave Height Change Induced by Excavated Waterway with Boussinesq Equation

A nonlinear numerical model has been set up by use of Boussinesq Equation with finite differ-ence method,and has been applied to the simulation of the abnormal change of wave height induced by ex-cavated waterway.Numerical results demonstrate that the abnormal change of wave height is due to theadding of the reflected wave height induced by excavated waterway to the incident wave height.Becausethe angle between the incident wave and the axis of the waterway is smaller than the critical angle,the re-flected wave produced by the waterway may propagate to the breakwater and may be added with the inci-dent wave,then the abnormal change of wave height before the breakwater may be caused.So the wave re-flection caused by the change of water depth cannot be neglected.