Triple diagram method for the prediction of wave height and period

Many formulations have been developed so far to predict the wave height and period from fetch length and wind blowing duration for a constant wind speed. This study aimed to predict wave parameters from fetch length and meteorological factors by using triple diagram methodology based on Kriging principles. Proposed model results were compared with Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) model which is used so commonly in the ocean and coastal engineering studies. For the implementation of the methodology hourly wave and wind data were obtained from a buoy located in Lake Ontario. Numerical and graphical comparisons demonstrated that the proposed method outperforms the classical formulation.     

北极海冰减少的气候效应研究

本文采用了OSU两层大气环流模式对特定的北极海冰进行数值模拟,研究北极海冰减少的气候效应.试验中海温一律取为气候平均值,北极海冰作为外强迫源影响大气,大气响应完全是环流内部调整的结果.本文对北极海冰减少后的大气环流特征进行了分析,特别是与中国的气温和降水之间的关系.     

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.     

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.     

Wind-driven interannual variability over the northeast Pacific Ocean

Interannual variability of the sea surface height (SSH) over the northeast Pacific Ocean is hindcast with a reduced-gravity, quasi-geostrophic model that includes linear damping. The model is forced with monthly Ekman pumping fields derived from the NCEP reanalysis wind stresses. The numerical solution is compared with SSH observations derived from satellite altimeter data and gridded at a lateral resolution of 1 degree. Provided that the reduced gravity parameter is chosen appropriately, the results demonstrate that the model has significant hindcast skill over interior regions of the basin, away from continental boundaries. A damping time scale of 2 to 3 years is close to optimal, although the hindcast skill is not strongly dependent on this parameter.A simplification of the quasi-geostrophic model is considered in which Rossby waves are eliminated, yielding a Markov model driven by local Ekman pumping. The results approximately reproduce the hindcast skill of the more complete quasi-geostrophic model and indicate that the interannual SSH variability is dominated by the local response to wind forcing. There is a close correspondence the two leading empirical orthogonal modes of the local model and those of the observed SSH anomalies. The latter account for over half of the variance of the interannual signal over the region.     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Wave runup on a concentric twin perforated circular cylinder

The regular wave interaction with a twin concentric porous circular cylinder system consisting of an inner impermeable cylinder and an outer perforated cylinder was studied through physical model and numerical model studies. The experiments were carried out on the twin concentric cylinder model in a wave flume to study the wave runup and rundown at the leading and trailing edges of the perforated cylinder. It was found that the maximum wave runup on the perforated cylinder is almost same as the incident wave height. The experimental results were used to develop the predictive formulae for the wave runup and rundown on the perforated cylinder, which can be easily used for design applications. The wave runup profiles around the perforated cylinder for different values of ka and porosities were studied numerically using Green's Identity Method. The results of the numerical study are presented and compared with the experimental measurements.     

0516号热带风暴过程分析

利用气象海洋数据资料和卫星遥感图片,分析研究了2005年第16号热带气旋"韦森特"(VICENTE)的特征,从最先的初始扰动到自身环流的分裂发展重组过程,以至当时周围相对应的大气环流,发现该热带气旋活动过程具有很多特性。对其移动过程进行的综合分析表明,只要存在合适距离等一定有利的条件,弱的两个涡旋之间完全可以发生强的作用力,高空辐散场的抽气作用对气旋的发展有极好的作用,所得的结论可对今后的预报提供一些启示和参考。     

河口变形效应与涌潮的形成

作者采用非线性潮波方程,假定河口的宽度B(x)和深度h(x)是任意可微函数,导出了涌潮发生的条件,并讨论了各种变形情况下涌潮的形成。得出结论是,在涌潮形成过程中起决定作用的是浅水非线性效应,而河口变形效应则是起促进作用的。     

江苏省主要湖泊的降水量与湖泊的降水效应

本文分析了江苏境内主要湖泊的降水量特征,揭示了长江是江苏各湖泊不同降水量特征的一条十分明显的天然界线;估算了太湖的降水效应,并据此推估出江苏主要湖泊的降水效应不太明显;江苏各湖泊的降水量与其水位年过程趋势相似,只是后者位相滞后于前者而已。