现代黄河水下三角洲的地貌特征及演化

本文主要根据黄河水利委员会多年固定断面的测量资料和海洋地质研究所1988年两个航次调查结果,结合黄河水沙资料的分析,对水下三角洲的地貌特征、地貌演化及形成机制进行了论述,尤其对三角洲前缘的地貌演化趋势进行了较详细地阐述。     

舟山凉潭岛填海工程对水动力及海床演变影响的模拟预测分析

用一个三维(ECOMSED)模式对舟山凉潭岛填海工程前后的潮流场变化进行模拟,做出预测。潮流场模拟结果与实测基本吻合。经分析可知,工程对潮流的影响主要在围堤的东南角小范围内:工程后流速明显减小,造成淤积现象,但淤积程度不大,1年后的淤积为13cm左右,5年后的淤积为0.8—1.2m左右。工程对较深水层的潮流运动影响很小。通过对施工期间产生的悬浮物在涨落潮时的分布模拟可知,涨潮时,悬浮物从工程区域的一个悬浮物源不断排出,主要对工程附近及其上游地区造成一定的影响;落潮时,悬浮物主要影响工程外围及其下游地区,整个落潮期间悬浮物能影响的范围比涨潮期间要大。总体上工程对该附近海域的潮流场及冲淤影响很小。     

海岸侵蚀灾害管理中的几项基础工作

讨论了作为海岸带管理工作中一项重要管理内容──海岸侵蚀灾害管理中的几项基础性工作,主要讨论了灾害评估的意义;海岸侵蚀灾害管理基础图件和专业图件的名称及主要内容;建立海岸侵蚀灾害信息系统的意义和主要内容;关于海岸侵蚀灾害管理法的意义和急迫性;提出了建立禁建区和禁采区的意义和紧迫性,并指出在海岸带开发建设中要统一管理,全面规划,注意到海岸带生态环境的特殊性。总之在海岸侵蚀灾害管理中,首先要做好基础工作,在此基础上做好法制建设和依法管理。     

The importance of extratropical and tropical cyclones on the short-term evolution of barrier islands along the northern Gulf of Mexico, USA

Data are presented indicating the complexity and highly variable response of beaches to cold front passages along the northern Gulf of Mexico, in addition to the impacts of tropical cyclones and winter storms. Within the past decade, an increase in the frequency of tropical storms and hurricanes impacting the northern Gulf has dramatically altered the long-term equilibrium of a large portion of this coast. A time series of net sediment flux for subaerial and nearshore environments has been established for a section of this coast in Florida, and to a lesser extent, Mississippi. The data incorporate the morphological signature of six tropical storms/hurricanes and more than 200 frontal passages.

Data indicate that (1) barrier islands can conserve mass during catastrophic hurricanes (e.g., Hurricane Opal, a strong category 4 hurricane near landfall); (2) less severe hurricanes and tropical storms can promote rapid dune aggradation and can contribute sediment to the entire barrier system; (3) cold fronts play a critical role in the poststorm adjustment of the barrier by deflating the subaerial portion of the overwash terrace and eroding its marginal lobe along the bayside beach through locally generated, high frequency, steep waves; and (4) barrier systems along the northern Gulf do not necessarily enter an immediate poststorm recovery phase, although nested in sediment-rich nearshore environments. While high wave energy conditions associated with cold fronts play an integral role in the evolution and maintenance of barriers along the northern Gulf, these events are more effective in reworking sediment after the occurrence of extreme events such as hurricanes. This relationship is even more apparent during the clustering of tropical cyclones.

It is anticipated that these findings will have important implications for the longer term evolution of barrier systems in midlatitude, microtidal settings where the clustering of storms is apparent, and winter storms are significant in intensity and frequency along the coast.     

Modeling erosion of sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic

Morphodynamic modeling is employed in the present work to predict the long-term evolution (over the next 100 years) of typical sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic. The studied objects are the coasts of Varandey (the Barents Sea), Baydaratskaya Bay and Harasavey (the Kara Sea). The model developed takes into account both the short-term processes (storm events) and long-term factors (for example, changes in sea level, inter-annual variations in gross sediment flux, lack or excess of sediment supply). Predicted and observed morphological changes in coastal profiles are shown to agree well for time scales ranging from weeks to decades. It is revealed that under given environmental conditions, the morphological evolution is strongly influenced by storm surges and associated wind-driven circulation. The water level gradient created by a surge generates a seaward flow at the bed. This outflow is shown to be an important destructive mechanism contributing to the erosion and recession of Arctic coasts. The rate of change is found to depend on both the exposure of the coast (relative to the direction of dominant winds) and its height above the sea. The open coast of Varandey is expected to retreat as much as 300–500 m over 100 years, while recession of the less exposed coasts of Baydaratskaya Bay would not exceed about 100 m/century. If long-term sediment losses are insignificant, the rate of erosion decays with time and the morphodynamic system may tend toward equilibrium. It is concluded that the expected relative sea-level rise (up to 1 m over the nearest 100 years) is non-crucial to the future coastal evolution if an erosion activity is already high enough.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.     

辽东湾两侧砂质海岸侵蚀灾害与防治

自20世纪60年代至90年代，由于多种原因，辽东湾东西两侧的初始沙质海岸侵蚀范围逐年扩大，侵蚀不断加剧，给当人民的生产和生活带来严重危害。由多年监测资料发现，侵蚀严重的熊岳岸线以2～4m／a的速率而大幅度后退，特别严重的地区最大后退达10km；辽西绥中某些岸段平均每年后退1～2m。20世纪90年代后期，由于一些海域管理措施的出台和相应的海岸防护工程的建设，海岸侵蚀逐渐减弱。通过现场调查和多年监测，分析了辽东湾东西两侧砂质海岸侵蚀的特点，认为海岸组成物质松散与海岸动力作用强烈是本区现代海岸侵蚀的基本条件，人为活动是关键因素，并提出了海岸侵蚀灾害的防治对策。     

Channelled erosion through a marine dump site of dredge spoils at the mouth of the Puyallup River, Washington State, USA

Channels are relatively common on river-mouth deltas, but the process by which they arise from river sediment discharge is unclear because they can potentially be explained either by negatively buoyant (hyperpycnal) flows produced directly from the river outflow or by flows generated by repeated failure and mobilisation of sediment rapidly deposited at the delta front. Channels eroded through a dump site of dredge spoils are described here from multibeam and older sonar data collected in Commencement Bay, at the mouth of the Puyallup River. Shallow channels on the seaward upper surface of the dump site, away from any flows that could have been produced by delta front failures, suggest that at least some hyperpycnal flows were produced directly from the positively buoyant river outflow up to 200 m from the edge of the river mouth platform. The form of channel bed erosion is revealed by the longitudinal shape of the main eroded channel compared with the adjacent dump site profile. It suggests that the channel evolved by its steep front retreating, rather than by simple vertical entrenchment or diffusive-like evolution of the profile, a geometry interpreted as evidence that repeated failure of the bed occurred in response to shear stress imposed by bottom-travelling flows. Model calculations based on shear strengths back-calculated from the geometry of channel wall failures suggest that, if the main channel were eroded solely by hyperpycnal flows, their generation was remarkably efficient in order to create flows vigorous enough to cause channel bed failure. Besides the sediment concentration and discharge characteristics that have been considered to dictate the ability of rivers to produce hyperpycnal flows, it is suggested that the timing of floods with respect to the tidal cycle should also be important because extreme low tides may be needed to ensure that coarse sediment is transferred vigorously to the edge of river mouth platforms.