Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

A Numerical Study on the Structure and Dynamics of Turbulence in Oscillatory Bottom Layer Flow over A Flat or Rippled Bed

1 .IntroductionUnder the influence of surface waves ,sandripples often appear on beaches . Whenthe amplitudeof water oscillationis sufficientlylarge ,vortices are formed onthe lee of every sand ripple crest . A-mongthese vortices ,the most important are t…     

波浪作用下海床的有效应力分析

波浪作用下海床的稳定性分析是海洋工程地质评价的重要内容。海床的稳定性可通过计算分析其随时间变化的有效应力场来评估。本文建议了一个周期荷载作用下土体的本构模型 ,并用于计算波浪作用下海床的应力与变形。采用Biot固结理论和有限单元法 ,分析了海床的动态应力场与孔隙水压力场。波浪作用下两种渗透系数时有效应力的动态变化过程结果对比 ,反映了渗透消散作用对海床有效应力变化的影响     

GMS低分辨模拟云图与高分辨展宽数字云图之间的关系

文章介绍了低分辨的数字云图与原始的展宽云图数据的关系，从而直接从量化后低分辨云图上求取辐射物理量。     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

基于神经网络的平底结构砰击压力预报

对利用神经网络预报平底结构入水砰击压力的方法进行了探讨。首先利用仿真软件计算各种情况下平底结构入水所产生的砰击压力，以此形成训练神经网络的数据集。其次利用数据集对三层反馈式网络进行了训练，讨论了不同隐含层节点数对该非线性系统的拟合能力，并且对梯度下降法、动量修正法和基于优化的LM算法的有效性和精度进行了比较，最后得出了适合平底结构入水砰击系统的网络结构。     

连云港南部近岸冲淤变化分析

选取连云港南部近岸带南北不同岸滩4个典型断面的样品点进行主成分分析，得出研究区控制泥沙交换和冲淤变化的主要动力因素为潮流作用和潮流波浪混合作用，据此，尝试建立冲淤变化的协方差数学模型，经过对计算结果显著性分析和实证检验得出研究区域的冲淤趋势为、整体冲淤平衡，局部略有冲刷”，从北到南，依次出现淤积平衡，冲淤平衡，冲刷平衡三种较为稳定的自然冲淤环境。     

一个湍能封闭模型对风暴潮海底底应力的应用研究

将一个三维湍能封闭模型应用于开阔海区的风暴潮，通过数值计算探讨了Ｔａｙｌｏｒ底摩擦二次率的拖曳系数随空间的分布及拖曳系数与水深、海底粗糙度、风向和风速等因素的关系。本文对底摩擦二次率的可靠性做了评价。     

从受训神经-模糊模型中提取知识

本文对用于模式分类、函数逼近、参数估计的多层感知器 (MLPs)给出 1个清晰的关于内部行为的解释。作者以单隐层的 MLP为例 ,论述了关于 MLP的内部行为的半线性分析理论。对受训的MLP,将隐层单元的输出分别定义为网络输出的正、负“内部分量”;定义内部分量的连接权重集为给定问题的“内部判别模式”;建立了 MLP和模糊集相结合的新模型 ;分析了 MLP的结构为 N- 2 - 1和N- H- 1 ,给出权重初始化的方法 ;提出了 1种从受训神经 -模糊模型 (NFMs)中提取知识的全新的具有实用价值的方法。