Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

Analysis of Dynamic Characteristics of Submarine Free Spanning Pipelines by Complex Damping Method

Considering the effect of the internal flowing fluid and the external marine environmental condition, the differential equation for the vortex-induced vibration (V1V) of the free spanning pipeline is derived and is discretized by the Hermit interpolation function. The free vibration equation with the damping term is solved by the complex damping method for the natural frequency, and then the effect of fluid damping on the natural frequency of the free spanning pipeline is analyzed.The results show that fluid damping has a significant influence on the damped natural frequency of the free spanning pipeline in the lock-in state, while it has little influence when the pipeline is out of the lock-in state. In the meantime,the change of the free span length has the same effect on the damped natural frequency and the undamped natural frequency.     

海面的电磁散射模型及应用

本文采用随机格林函数方法求解了电磁场随机波动方程,给出了具有倾斜表面含气泡海浪的体散射系数表达式,并且指出,当电磁波近垂直入射时,只应用面散射模型是不充分的,必须考虑体散射效应.同时讨论了当入射角在20°～30°之间体散射系数与面散射系数的加权对接问题,给出了完整的海面散射系数计算过程.     

黄海、渤海底层温度数值预报方法的研究

根据文献［ｌ］建立的底层温度（ＴＨ）与其水柱垂向平均温度（）的经验关系，结合流体动力学方程和（垂向平均）热传导方程，发展了以水气温差和风速为已知量的底层温度二维数值预报模式。该模式避开了海面热量和动量输入在垂直水柱中分配的复杂物理过程而直接报出底层水温场，具有较好的实用性；此外，从试报结果看，效果令人满意。     

连云港近岸海域物理自净能力研究及水质预测——Ⅲ.西大堤建成后对物质输运的影响

在连云港近岸海域计算潮流场基础上建立拉格朗日余流模型,并对连云港市两大堤建成前后的拉格朗日余流变化进行了分析,且选择有代表性的排污口进行了数值跟踪。     

A Numerical Study on the Structure and Dynamics of Turbulence in Oscillatory Bottom Layer Flow over A Flat or Rippled Bed

1 .IntroductionUnder the influence of surface waves ,sandripples often appear on beaches . Whenthe amplitudeof water oscillationis sufficientlylarge ,vortices are formed onthe lee of every sand ripple crest . A-mongthese vortices ,the most important are t…     

海底地形演变模型初探

当前,地理信息系统(GIS)时-空结合的分析功能还很有限,尤其是海洋地理信息系统(OGIS).由于海洋系统自身的复杂性,如海底地形这种受时-空影响的信息元素,对其预测就有相当的难度,有关这方面的文献也较少见.本文从影响海底地形演变的机理出发,结合四维空间关联性和混沌巨系统理论,提出了“空间相关混合自适应模型”.在此基础上,根据黄海辐射状沙洲西太阳沙及附近海域的具体情况,建立了该区的地形演变模型.以3个年代的测量数据为基础,运用分形内插方法生成连续多年(25a)的水深时-空数据序列,通过所建地形预测模型的处理,取得了未来年份的水深预测值,经比较检验认为是可信赖的.为江苏省东部沿海港口开发建设提供了科学依据.     

国家中尺度基础地理信息工程与空间辅助决策项目获国家科技进步二等奖

在近日揭晓的 2 0 0 2年度国家科技进步奖评选中 ,国家中尺度基础地理信息工程与空间辅助决策项目获二等奖。该项目由中国测绘科学研究院、国家基础地理信息中心、国务院办公厅秘书局、四川测绘局、陕西测绘局、黑龙江测绘局共同完成。该项目的总体目标是 :建立国家 1∶2 5万中尺度基础地理信息平台 ,形成基础地理数据库管理与应用体系 ,建设面向政府机关的空间辅助决策技术体系 ,自主开发空间辅助决策软件系统 ,用于支持政府机关的数字化、网络化与可视化决策。经过科研人员的努力 ,建成了全国 1∶2 5万中尺度基础地理信息数据库 ,包括地形…     

不规则波的物理模拟

介绍了不规则波的生成方法，其中长波、反射及三皮是关键。对波－－充合成做了分析，讨论了水波中的与雷诺数有关的现象的模拟。