基于OS071X测波雷达的波浪探测分析

文章利用舟山海洋环境监测站2014年第16号台风"凤凰"过境影响期间,对OS071X测波雷达和3m波浪浮标在同一海域内的波浪探测资料进行了对比验证。通过分析,OS071X测波雷达探测反演的有效波高、周期与3m波浪浮标探测结果对比,二者按先后顺序的均方根误差分别为0.27m和0.29m,相关系数分别为0.93和0.90。结果表明,OS071X测波雷达系统的探测精度得到了验证,能够满足实时探测近岸海域波浪的需求。     

基于近岸GPS RTK技术的潮位和波浪提取算法研究

由于潮汐和波浪的周期相差甚远,对实时海面高程数据进行相应的低通和带通滤波即可提取潮位和波浪信息。通过对仿真的实时海面高程数据进行平滑滤波、中值滤波、小波滤波等低通滤波,以及椭圆、巴特沃斯等带通滤波结果分析表明:近岸GPS RTK技术可用于潮位和波浪同步测量;对于潮位信息的提取方面,平滑、中值、小波等低通滤波均能很好的提取出潮位信息,其中平滑滤波最佳,且工程中易于实现;对于波浪信息的提取方面,椭圆滤波、巴特沃斯、切比雪夫Ⅰ型等带通滤波均能很好提取出波浪信息。     

随机波浪下泰勒离散系数的时域解

利用Wolk提出的粒子追踪方程,通过等分频率法划分不规则波谱,利用MATLAB做粒子运动模拟计算,得到无因次化泰勒离散系数K/D随时间t变化的曲线;通过与Huang等得到的P-M谱的泰勒离散系数K/D计算结果比较证明了本计算方法的可靠性。采用该方法研究了不规则波条件下,波序列(同一谱型不同波面序列)和谱型(谱峰周期、有效波高、谱峰升高因子)对波浪离散系数的影响;计算结果表明:同一谱型不同波序列对泰勒纵向离散系数稳定值和稳定时间无影响;不规则波谱峰周期越大,纵向离散系数K/D越小,稳定时间越短;有效波高越大,纵向离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;谱峰升高因子越大,泰勒离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;与规则波相比,不规则波的泰勒离散系数K/D的值略小10%~30%。     

不同湍流模型在波浪水槽数值模拟中的 应用与比较

为了研究不同湍流模型在建立数值水槽中的适用性,选用计算流体力学软件,采用S-A、标准的k-着及RNG k-着 等8种不同的湍流模型对水槽中的波浪进行了数值模拟,通过对比得到：RNG k-着模型不仅具有较高的精度,而且又节省计 算资源,较其它模型更具优势。     

Theoretical and experimental study of breaking wave on sloping bottoms

This paper studies the continuous evolution of breaking wave for the surface water waves propagating on a sloping beach. A Lagrangian asymptotic solution is derived. According to the solution coupled with the wave breaking criteria and the equations of water particles motion, the wave deformation and the continuous wave breaking processes for the progressive water waves propagating on a sloping bottom can be derived. A series of experiments are also conducted to compare with the theoretical solution. The results show that the present solution can reasonably describe the plunging or spilling wave breaking phenomenon.     

随机波浪作用下黑泥湾冲淤演变的数值模拟

近岸海域潮流、波浪动力条件复杂,单纯考虑潮流输沙对底床冲淤演变的影响可能存在较大的偏差。基于局地较长时期海浪场统计特征,将随机波浪因子引入底床冲淤演化模拟研究中,采用ECOMSED模式进行了不同波浪动力条件影响下黑泥湾海域冲淤演化的数值模拟,并与现场观测资料进行了比较,取得了较好的结果。结果表明,黑泥湾及附近海域存在较稳定的N—S向潮余流,这在整体上是本区泥沙输运的重要影响因素;湾内海域基本处于冲淤动态平衡,冲淤格局与其地形、海流流速和波浪场分布有关,楮岛周围与镆铘岛东面近岸海域以侵蚀为主,镆铘岛南部近岸以淤积为主;随机波浪要素的引入对冲淤演变模拟结果有较大的影响,引入波浪要素后的模拟的结果与海图更为接近。     

杭州湾海域50年一遇波浪数值模拟研究

杭州湾外围海域岛礁众多,波浪传播机制复杂。为了了解该海域的波浪分布特征,采用MIKE 21 SW模块建立了杭州湾海域波浪数值模型,利用实测波浪资料对模型进行了验证,结果表明该模型适用于模拟杭州湾海域的波浪传播。利用1970—2002年嵊山海洋站实测极值波浪资料推算50年一遇波浪要素,将其作为模型边界条件,对杭州湾海域50年一遇的设计波浪进行了模拟,并对该海域的波浪传播特征进行了分析。结果表明,杭州湾内波高较之外海明显减小,外围众多岛礁起到了很好的遮挡保护作用。     

Rainfall effect on wind waves and the turbulence beneath air-sea interface

Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.     

The physical simulation of wave groups and their variations in a wave flume

The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given.     

Parameterization of Wave Breaking Probability and Whitecap Coverage

1 .Introduction Wave breaking and associated whitecapping have long beeninteresting due totheir close relationto many fields of ocean study,including air-sea interaction,remote sensing,ocean engineering,aswell as wave dynamics .The breaking probabilityBan…