精确边界条件导出的最优化五阶斯托克斯波

本文应用变分原理的方法，根据精确的动力自由表面边界条件导出五阶斯托克斯波。所得 边界条件的误差平方和最不意义的最优化解，本文还讨论了确定伯努利方程中的示知函数ｆ（ｔ）的方法。     

吸收式造波机和宽式波浪槽

介绍一种宽式波浪槽，槽中设有一组吸收式造波机，它能吸收反射波。     

数值波浪水槽消波器的改进与检验

数值波浪水槽技术是一种新兴的水波动力学数值模拟技术, 它能够实现水波现象的精确模拟。作为数值波浪水槽的一个重要功能, 消波技术被用于消除传入波浪在水槽末端的反射效应, 以防止反射波对有效实验区域的污染, 从而保证特定要求的水波实验的精确性。目前被广泛采用的消波技术可分为阻尼消波区和主动消波器两类。     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

双层局部开孔板沉箱对波浪反射的理论研究

提出了一种用于研究由双层开孔板和一个不透水后板的开孔结构对斜向波反射率的理论分析方法。整个流域被分成三个子域，在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法以得到该域内包含未知展开系数的势函数的表达式，在速度势的展开中，考虑了非传播模态波浪的影响。通过匹配开孔板处的边界条件可以求解待定的展开系数，继而求解双层开孔板防波堤结构对斜向波的反射率。数值计算结果与试验结果进行了比较，符合较好。并进一步讨论了几个重要因素对反射系数的影响。     

Second-Order Solutions for Random lnterfacial Waves Under Steady Uniform Currents

In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interracial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displacements of the density interface and the associated velocity potentials in two-layer fluid are solved to the second order, and the wave-wave interactions of the wave components and the interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the extended solutions include those obtained by Song (2004) as one special case where the steady uniform currents of the two fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions reduce to those derived by Sharma and Dean (1979) for random surface waves if the density of the upper fluid and the current of the lower fluid are both taken as zero.     

直立堤前为任意地形时立波运动的数值分析

本文利用MAC法(marker and cell method)对直立堤前求解域为任意形状(有突基床存在、海床起伏)的情况下立波波面及流场进行了数值分析,得到了实验资料及现有理论近似解的验证。在计算中为克服因堤面反射给入流界条件的确定带来的困难,我们根据立波形成的原理采用了”镜像法“技术。通过算例分析,揭示了当突基床尺度足够大时立波波节和波腹的位置向堤面方向前移从而波长缩短的原因,指出了因突基床的存在堤前立波节点附近离堤和向堤的水平流速分布的不对称性。     

台湾近海碰撞带内水合物BSR分布

用偏移后的6道和120道反射剖面，在台湾近海增生柱内误别出似海底反射层（BSR），BSR具反极性，并随水深增加，BSR在海底浅层地层深度加大，说明BSR可作为甲烷水合物稳定域底界的标志。BSR位于台湾造山带及中国大陆边缘剥蚀沉积物区内，沉积物富含有机质，因此可提供甲 烷气体，在该区的北部陆地存在气苗也暗示这些地层内存在的甲烷。BSR具体发育在背斜脊部，泥火山，指示甲烷气迁移并圈闭。背斜内近期海底上隆可减少孔隙压力，因此水合物分解释放游离气，从而增强了BSR处的声波阻抗差。在海底峡谷区明显缺乏BSR，在背斜内的BSR之下发现“平点”，说明孔隙空间充填水合物后降低沉积物的渗透率，故增强了圈闭游离气。我们估算了台湾南部附近BSR深度和分布范围，面积超过77000km^2，特别是在潮海沟一侧增生柱斜坡之下大约30％－60％的地区有BSR，即使水深相近，增生柱海沟－侧（西边）的BSR深度比向弧一侧（东边）的浅，说明沿尼拉海沟沉积物加积并脱水，使流体从深部向浅部流动，地温梯度增高。     

高能波控陆架的风暴沉积和风暴层序——以澳大利亚东南部陆架为例

根据浅层地震和钻孔资科,将澳大利亚东南部研究地区高能波控陆架风暴沉积分为直立风暴层、叠瓦状风暴层、无序风暴层、水平风暴层和纹层状风暴层等五类.各类风暴层及风暴层与非风暴层组合而成悬移风暴层序、悬移-推移混合风暴层序和推移风暴层序三大类.中陆架风暴沉积与现今近岸和水下岸坡相似,岩性、岩相和古生物属海岸带,风暴沉积厚,底板埋深大,组成物质粗.推断中陆架风暴沉积当形成于冰后期海侵、该地带处在近岸带和水下岸坡环境时,此时海面上升速度可能减缓,或趋近于零,甚至可能有短时间的下降.     

Analytic Solution of Interaction Between Surface Waves and Floating Elastic Plates with Elastic End-Restraints

Based on the dynamic theories of water waves and Mindlin plates,the analytic solution of interaction between surface waves and two-dimensional floating elastic plates with edge-restraint is constructed by use of the Wiener-Hopf technique.Firstly,without regard for elastic edge restraint,the wave-induced responses of elastic floating plate analyzed by the present method are in good agreement with the results from literature and experimental results.Therefore,it can be shown that the present method is valid.Secondly,three end-restraint cases(i.e.,the left-end elastic restraints,the both-end elastic restraints,and the right-end elastic restraints)are proposed to reduce the vibration of floating plates,in which the spring is used to connect the sea bottom and the floating plate's left(or right)edge.The relations between the spring stiffness and the parameters of wave-induced responses of floating plates are discussed.Moreover,the effective method to reduce the vibration of floating elastic plates can be obtained through comparison.