Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

香港附近海区台风波浪的波群统计分析

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不规则波折射物理模型试验研究

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地震折射波的虚拟速度—临界角谱的原理与制作方法

虚拟速度-临界角谱是地震折射波虚拟射线理论的应用之一。根据共始点或共折射点记录的相似性，利用第一虚拟时距曲线方程，对时距曲线进行扫描计算，可以制作共始点谱和共折射点谱。文中，通过实际介质模型的计算机试算结果，对该方法作了验证。     

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根据作者导得的AfKdV方程，理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻，能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时，本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题，从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。     

不规则波的物理模拟

介绍了不规则波的生成方法，其中长波、反射及三皮是关键。对波－－充合成做了分析，讨论了水波中的与雷诺数有关的现象的模拟。     

狭窄河道的二维潮波模拟

本文用ADE方法对狭窄而弯曲的河道进行了水平二维的潮波模拟,并运用不等距网格处理了区域的大弯曲问题,对于谢才系数在狭窄区域的取值问题进行了探讨,认为在狭窄区域谢才系数还依赖于区域的横向尺度。     

辽东湾S2冰侧限剪切强度的试验研究

利用试验方法系统地研究了辽东湾S2型海冰侧限剪切强度随剪切应变速率、加载方向、法向应力、温度和冰内孔隙率的变化规律。介绍了S2型海冰各向异性特点及剪切应变速率对剪切破坏方式的效应和韧脆破坏转变的条件。分析了不同加载方向海冰峰值剪切强度的差异 ,获得 - 6 2℃温度下S2冰内摩擦角和内聚力分别为 42°和 70 0kPa。利用统计分析给出峰值剪切强度与冰温和孔隙率的试验关系     

精确边界条件导出的最优化五阶斯托克斯波

本文应用变分原理的方法，根据精确的动力自由表面边界条件导出五阶斯托克斯波。所得 边界条件的误差平方和最不意义的最优化解，本文还讨论了确定伯努利方程中的示知函数ｆ（ｔ）的方法。     

吸收式造波机和宽式波浪槽

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