A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves

- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.     

疏浚物倾倒区海水水质级别的模糊综合评价

应用模糊综合评价方法对大连臭水套海域疏浚物预选倾倒区的水质状况进行了评价，得到了有益的结论。     

关于风浪预报公式和风区宽度的注记

从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。     

渤海悬浮颗粒物的三维输运模式 I.模式

为了长时间,大范围研究渤海中悬浮物的输运规律,研究应用并改造了备国汉堡大学的粒子追踪悬浮物输运的三维模式,模式中考虑了风、气压等气象要素以外海传入的潮波作用下的三维正压海流对悬浮颗粒物的输运．同时考虑了悬浮颗粒物的学降及再悬浮机制和底质中的细颗粒物的运动,将风浪的作用引入了悬浮物输运的计算,数值模式应用的粒五追踪方法,能较好地反映悬浮物浓度的迅速变化。     

江苏金坛新石器时代环境变迁研究

对江苏金坛三星村新石器遗址ＪＳ９８Ｔ０８２０号探坑南壁剖面进行采磁,对样品帮了粒度、地球化学、孢粉、微体古生物（有孔虫和介形类）等环境替代指标的测定与分析,并据此初步研究和恢复了该区新石器时代古定变状况,得出以下几点认识：（１０地球化学分析结果本区知全新世以来,气候有从暖湿向干冷变化的总趋势。（２）Ｐ２Ｏ５的含量在马家浜墓葬层和崧泽文化层可达生土层的５～６倍,充分反映了当时人类活动日益频繁,同时也     

烟台港倾倒区表层沉积物重金属的富集特征及风险评价

分析了2001~2011年烟台港倾倒区表层沉积物中6种重金属的含量及时空分布特征,采用地累积指数(Igeo)和潜在生态风险指数(ERI)对重金属富集现状及潜在生态风险进行评价。结果显示：历次调查重金属含量均较低且空间分布差异小,与黄海背景值相比, Cd和Cu出现一定程度的富集。ERI评价表明2011年倾倒区潜在生态风险性较低,年际变化顺序为：2008年＞2006年＞2009年＞2011年＞2001年, Cd和Hg是近年来的主要风险因子。     

10MW级海上浮式风机运动特性研究

以DTU 10 MW基准风机为研究对象,单柱式平台作为基础支撑结构,使用FAST软件计算分析,考虑单独风、单独波浪以及风浪组合三种环境条件,对10 MW级海上浮式风机的运动特性进行研究。研究发现:系统摇荡是风激励的低频运动和波浪激励的波频运动的合成,气动阻尼削弱系统的波频运动;系统纵荡和纵摇运动存在明显的耦合现象,而垂荡运动和其他方向的运动没有耦合关系;受纵摇影响,转动的风轮产生陀螺惯性力矩,激励首摇运动;随着风机单机容量的增加,风激励的低频运动比例增大,波浪激励的波频运动比例减小。     

The restoration of fishing services and the conveyance of risk information in the Southern California Bight

Southern California's marine areas are heavily contaminated with dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane (DDT) and polychlorinated-biphenyls (PCBs), and fish consumption advisories (FCAs) have been issued throughout the region. Between 2002 and 2003, the Montrose Angler Survey, a large-scale survey of subsistence anglers, was developed and implemented on site in Orange and Los Angeles counties. This survey was intended to assist natural resource trustees in the development of restoration programs that will address injuries to natural resources and restore lost economic services for anglers, but the data were never fully analyzed. The trustees have shown a clear preference for ecological restoration programs that may take years to improve fishing services. In contrast, this analysis, which includes a random-parameter fishing site choice model, demonstrates that simple, inexpensive programs such as better signage to warn of FCAs and transportation to clean sites have the potential to yield substantial benefits quickly. This paper also focuses on how different ethnic minority groups are affected by FCAs, and determines how best to communicate risk information and change fishing behavior through outreach programs.     

广东一次寒潮8级大风物理过程分析

本文利用NCEP1°×1°的网格点分析资料和常规观测资料对2006年1月4～7日广东寒潮造成的广东海面8级大风过程进行了物理机制分析.结果表明:受强冷空气南下影响,有着较深厚的强冷平流输送,加之高空动量下传的共同作用,故而造成了广东东、西部海面先后出现了8级大风过程.这为以后更准确地预报广东海面大风提供了良好的依据.     

A real-time, event-triggered storm surge forecasting system for the state of North Carolina

A new real-time, event-triggered storm surge prediction system has been developed for the State of North Carolina to assist emergency managers, policy-makers and other government officials with evacuation planning, decision-making and resource deployment during tropical storm landfall and flood inundation events. The North Carolina Forecast System (NCFS) was designed and built to provide a rapid response assessment of hurricane threat, accomplished by driving a high-resolution, two-dimensional, depth-integrated version of the ADCIRC (Advanced Circulation) coastal ocean model with winds from a synthetic asymmetric gradient wind vortex. These parametric winds, calculated at exact finite-element mesh node locations and directly coupled to the ocean model at every time step, are generated from National Hurricane Center (NHC) forecast advisories the moment they are inserted into the real-time weather data stream, maximizing the number of hours of forecast utility. Tidal harmonic constituents are prescribed at the open water boundaries and applied as tidal potentials in the interior of the ocean model domain. A directional surface roughness parameterization that modulates the wind speed at a given location based on the types of land cover encountered upwind, a forest canopy sheltering effect, and a spatially varying distribution of Manning’s–n friction coefficient used for computing the bottom/channel bed friction are also included in the storm surge model. Comparisons of the simulated wind speeds and phases against their real meteorological counterparts, of model elevations against actual sea surface elevations measured by NOAA tide gauges along the NC coast, and of simulated depth-averaged current velocities against Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) data, indicate that this new system produces remarkably realistic predictions of winds and storm surge.