Applied hydrodynamic wave-resistance computation by Fourier transform

An applied Fourier transform computation for the hydrodynamic wave-resistance coefficient is shown, oriented to potential flows with a free surface and infinity depth. The presence of a ship-like body is simulated by its equivalent pressure disturbance imposed on the un-perturbed free surface, where a linearized free surface condition is used. The wave-resistance coefficient is obtained from the wave-height downstream. Two examples with closed solutions are considered: a submerged dipole, as a test-case, and a parabolic pressure distribution of compact support. In the three dimensional case, a dispersion relation is included which is a key resource for an inexpensive computation of the wave pattern far downstream like fifteen ship-lengths.     

Comparison among four kinds of data of sea surface wind stress in the South China Sea

By using remote sensing (ERS) data, FSU data, COADS data and Hellerman & Rosen-stein objective analysis data to analyze the sea surface wind stress in the South China Sea, it is found that the remote sensing data have higher resolution and more reasonable values. Therefore we suggest that remote sensing data be chosen in the study of climatological features of sea surface wind stress and its seasonal variability in the South China Sea, especially in the study of small and middle scale eddies.     

Modeling erosion of sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic

Morphodynamic modeling is employed in the present work to predict the long-term evolution (over the next 100 years) of typical sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic. The studied objects are the coasts of Varandey (the Barents Sea), Baydaratskaya Bay and Harasavey (the Kara Sea). The model developed takes into account both the short-term processes (storm events) and long-term factors (for example, changes in sea level, inter-annual variations in gross sediment flux, lack or excess of sediment supply). Predicted and observed morphological changes in coastal profiles are shown to agree well for time scales ranging from weeks to decades. It is revealed that under given environmental conditions, the morphological evolution is strongly influenced by storm surges and associated wind-driven circulation. The water level gradient created by a surge generates a seaward flow at the bed. This outflow is shown to be an important destructive mechanism contributing to the erosion and recession of Arctic coasts. The rate of change is found to depend on both the exposure of the coast (relative to the direction of dominant winds) and its height above the sea. The open coast of Varandey is expected to retreat as much as 300–500 m over 100 years, while recession of the less exposed coasts of Baydaratskaya Bay would not exceed about 100 m/century. If long-term sediment losses are insignificant, the rate of erosion decays with time and the morphodynamic system may tend toward equilibrium. It is concluded that the expected relative sea-level rise (up to 1 m over the nearest 100 years) is non-crucial to the future coastal evolution if an erosion activity is already high enough.     

东太平洋柱状沉积物的古气候和古环境记录

太平洋深海盆地的远洋沉积物在物质组成和来源上远较大陆边缘简单.由于远离大陆,又有海沟与周边大陆分隔,太平洋深海沉积物中通常不包含由河流水系搬运而来的悬浮物,因此从深海沉积物中提取古气候、古环境信息可以避免诸多地质因素相互叠加和干扰[1].深海远洋沉积物中的主要组分是风成陆源碎屑(包括火山碎屑)和来自上层海水的生源组分(降落到洋底的生物壳体)以及由海解作用形成的自生矿物[2],其中陆源碎屑的相对含量、粒度及矿物成分可以反映大气环流的强度及物源区的气候环境[1],生源组分的组成、相对含量和丰度以及种属含量变化则与表层海水的生产力和溶解作用有关.     

赤道暖池区漂流浮标运动轨迹分析

TOGA—COARE强化观测期间,对赤道暖池区海流作了多种方法、多层次的观测;根据美国释放的漂流浮标不同时刻位置的资料,分别对赤道及其南、北海域的表层漂流状况作了计算分析,指出:从1°N向北存在单一的北向流;从1°N～1°S这个近赤道区域内为东向流;1°N～2°S区域为过渡区,以东向流为主,个别浮标出现涡旋状运动。2°S以南为一反时针运动的大涡旋。     

GIS支持下的长江口拦门沙泥沙冲淤定量计算

依据1842～1997年10幅不同年代的长江口海图资料,利用地理信息系统和数字化仪进行处理,建立不同时期的长江口水下数字高程模型,以此作为基础资料,实现了从横剖面、深泓线纵剖面、平面变化等不同角度对长江口拦门沙地区滩槽演变、岸线侵蚀、沙岛形成与变迁等进行研究.通过计算河槽容积,实现了对不同时段泥沙冲淤量的计算.结果表明,155a来拦门沙总的趋势是不断淤积,但不同时期淤积速度大不一样,个别时期甚至会发生一定程度的冲刷,这主要与动力条件的波动有关.1842～1997年,共淤积泥沙38.10亿t,平均每年淤积0.246亿t,约占长江来沙的5%,年均淤厚为1.1cm泥沙淤积部位主要在九段沙、横沙及横沙东滩、崇明东滩三处.发生冲刷的范围较小,仅占总面积的21.4%,主要在北槽,北港上段和南槽局部也有轻微的冲刷发生.     

Progress in Scatterometer Application

Progress in the scientific application of space-based scatterometer data over the past two decades is reviewed. There has been continuous improvement in coverage, resolution, and accuracy. Besides the traditional applications in weather and ocean-atmosphere interaction, which are based on ocean surface wind vectors, emerging applications over land and ice are also described. Future missions and new technology are introduced. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

好望角附近海域春季大风的几种主要形势分析

通过普查和分析，概括出了春季好望角附近海域三种主要大风出现时的模型图，并以一个月中逐日4次船舶测风报告为例，分析了好望角大风的某些主要特征。     

Eddy Diffusion Coefficients of Suspended Particulate Matter: Effects of Wind Energy Transfer and Stratification

Gross sedimentation rates (GSR) have been measured using sediment traps placed at nine different levels above the bed (0·3, 0·5, 0·8, 1·0, 2·0, 4·0, 6·0, 8·0 and 10·0 m). The sediment traps were deployed for 1·25 years and recovered 28 times during the study period. Low average GSR values of 5·5 g m^-2 day^-1 were obtained at 10·0 m, and high average GSR values of 114·8 g m^-2 day^-1 were obtained at 0·3 m. An expression for the eddy diffusion coefficient of suspended particulate matter (K_s), based on the measured GSR is given. The expression has been used for modelling of K_s at the different trap levels above the bed. High values (≈42 cm² s^-1) of K_s were obtained at the upper traps, whereas low values (≈2 cm² s^-1) were obtained near the bed. Comparison between level of turbulent energy in terms of shear stress at the boundaries of the water column, i.e. from the wind and the bed flow, showed that wind energy exceeded that of the bed flow by a factor 16. At 5·0 m K_s was positively correlated (r=0·66) to the eddy diffusion coefficient of momentum (K_m) derived from the wind energy transfer to the water, giving an average β of 0·5 for K_s =βK_m. The density difference between surface and bottom waters has been designated a parameter of stratification, and is discussed in relation to variations of K_s and K_m .     

浙江省海岸侵蚀及防治概述

浙江海岸侵蚀现象普遍存在。基岩海岸海蚀地貌发育,因其组成物质抗冲蚀能力强,岸线后退不明显;砂砾质海岸普遍发生侵蚀,尤其是无计划的人工挖沙,造成沙滩减小或消失;淤泥质海岸大多处于缓慢的淤涨状态,但由于自然条件的改变和人为作用的影响,某些岸段发生侵蚀,特别是受到台风暴潮的影响,岸线在短时间内出现大规模后退和滩面下蚀。侵蚀岸段主要见于杭州湾北岸澉浦至金丝娘桥岸段,杭州湾南岸临山至西三岸段及瓯江口北岸盘石至黄华岸段。淤泥质海岸后缘为滨海平原,组成物质为粘土质粉砂,抗冲蚀能力弱,为防止和减轻海岸侵蚀,沿岸建造各类海岸工程(海塘、丁坝、导堤等),提高防潮抗浪能力,在朝滩种植大米草,互花米草,消浪促淤明显。另外,在海岸开发活动中,应加强海岸侵蚀监测和综合管理。